Day 6

[Lanse]

Today i filled up the sediment bowl with WD40, because apperentially it is rusted to the assembely. I tapped at it with a rubber mallet but it wouldnt move. My carb was mailed toady, and my manuels arrived today, Thanks to both of you. I guess i am going rim shopping, right??? Also, does anyone have a good sorce of AC guages?? I need an oil and a water. The water is rusted in good, and wont budge, this is gonna be fun (sarcastic). I looked through the manuels, and many features of my tractor are not in there, and many more are different. VERY early model i guess, different placements of a few things and no shutters. Also, since its crank start only, will it need an electricial box on the steering colum?? No progress on the drain plug, it looks like some morphed contraption created by someone with a torch. GAAAAA!!!!!

 

[Lanse]

Another thing, wher is the seroal number on this thing??? I cant seam to find it.

 

[Wisconsin Cowman]

You can get the gauges at any Agco dealer or Tisco dealer or even this website has them. If you want some that the AC logo on them there more money. Or you can go to your favorite farm store they sell them too.

 

[Lanse]

Which one do you think???? These are from this stie


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Oil Gauge - Oil pressure gauge. For IB, B, C, CA, D10, D12, D14, D15, D17, WC, WD, WD45, WF (Part No: 70207834) $17.34 [Enlarge Picture]

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Oil Pressure Gauge - Complete assembly w oil tube and mounting hardware, Lighted. 80 psi. (Part No: SSW0002) $7.98 [Enlarge Picture]

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Oil Pressure Gauge - For models B, C, CA, WC, WD, WD45. This oil pressure gauge reads up to 50 psi and has a 2" body. Replaces 70226967, 70228719. (Part No: 9A550) $14.20 [Enlarge Picture]

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Oil Pressure Gauge - No studs, white face. For Models: B, IB, C, CA, WD, WF, WC, WD45. (Part No: 2348803) $24.73 [Enlarge Picture

 

[Howard H.]

You may have to drill the drain plug out and re-tap the pan...

Sounds like it is rusted in pretty solid...


Howard

 

[old]

Should be stamped just forward of the shifter handle. It will start with B if in fact its a B. Oh Lance stop shopping for parts you are sure you need yet. Your rims might just look bad but could well be saved by sand blasting and painting.
Heres a few saying to remember
KISS=keep it simple stupid
Waste not want not
Don't fix it unless its broke
All of those fit working on tractors and what with parts costing what they do a lot of times you can fix what you have and be better off in the long run
Hobby farm

 

[Lanse]

Dang, sounds bad. How would i go about that?? I'm assuming that eould mean drilling there the drain plug is and then what?? Is there any way to avoid having to do this???

 

[hillbillyOH]

Lanse, you may want to visit <a href="http://www.steinketractor.com/">Steinke's</a> in Eaton. You'll be able to get parts MUCH cheaper there (no offense to YT) and you won't have to pay shipping.

Mapquest makes it look like a quick trip from Brookville...

What have you tried so far on the drain plug?

 

[Lanse]

Will do. YT's shipping rates would kill me as well. Not paying $10 to ship an $8 gas cap for example, LOL

 

[Wisconsin Cowman]

Lanse you say you can not get your oil pan plug off. I would try a socket that will fit the plug and a 1/2" drive breaker and a long pipe over the handle should be able to break that sucker lose. Is your rim rusted out or bent. If it is not then you should be ok. Just clean up the rim with a sand blaster like Old said and you should be set to go with that.

For the gauge I think this one will work- Oil Pressure Gauge - Complete assembly w oil tube and mounting hardware, Lighted. 80 psi. (Part No: SSW0002) $7.98 [Enlarge Picture]

 

[Fancy Farm]

If you can get a socket on the drain plug try a 1/2 inch impact it will come nearer to removing the plug without damage than a breaker bar and pipe.

 

[Lanse]

Good, the cheap one, LOL

This isnt like a normal drain plug, it apperes to be ground down and warped into something, but you can clearly see that it isnt welded or something to the crankcase, but its been farmerized

I was thinking that i could spray PB into the crankcase, but i guess it would be on top and the oil would be on the bottom. Otherwise it could dissolve the rust from the inside.

 

[Lanse]

yes, i know stienkeys very well, my dad bought our new holland there. My mom wont really take me anywhere (she spends all her time at work) but i bet they would ship it cheaper then YT. Thanks. Say, if you know them you must be in the area. Where ate you??

 

[Lanse]

thanks for the idea, but its not a lug or nut like normal, it resembles the sediment bowl nut. Never seen anything like it as a drain plug. Thanks.

 

[Randy S]

Lanse,
If that oil drain plug is out of shape and farmerized, lol, then you have one like i do.

the best thing ive found to remove it is a good old pipe wrench maybe with a cheeter pipe for the first time.

Good luck
Randy

 

[old]

Thats one reason you figure out first what you need then order it all at once. Doing that saves $$ in the long run

 

[Lanse]

Yeah, i'll have to try that. It'll be allright, but theres the steering and tie rods in the way. This is going to be interesting.

 

[hillbillyOH]

I'm just south of Germantown. It takes me about 25 min. to get to Steinke's.

 

[Lanse]

A local, eh?? Cool. I know where germantown is.

 

[Lanse]

Yep. I want to get as many parts from the people on this site as i can. Anybody got a parts B laying around that i could buy parts off???

 

[old]

Don't have a B but I have 2 C parts tractors and a lot of the parts are the same between them
Hobby farm

 

[Lanse]

Allright. You have an e-mail

 

[Roy in georgia]

post us a pic of that oil plug so we can see what we are trying to help get out. My suggestion would be to weld a nut onto the plug then as soon as you can while it is still hot hot hot put the impact on it (if you have access to a welder or someone to use it ) this would take a practiced hand to get the weld rite as you don't want to weld the nut to the pan or weld over the sides of the nut and the heat will help loosen it has worked for me on alot of broken exhaust bolts

 

[skycarp]

Just a thought from my experiences,

Regarding the drain plug, it has right hand threads. When it is under the tractor and you are standing along side it, it may seem to come off one way, but if you lay down and look up, it actually goes the other way. Lefty, loosey, Righty, tighty.

 

[Lanse]

huh. No i dont have a welder nor do i know anyone with one around here, but a farm i work for has one. I may just get one of them propane torches or something. Is there any chance of ingiting the oil in there???

 

[Keith-OR]

Wisconsin Cowman, Lance does NOT want to use an 80lb. pressure gage. As the pressure produced by that little alis engine is 12 to 15 lbs on it best days and this is depending on if he uses the correct oil filter.

25 to 30 lb pressure gage is what needs to be used.

Keith & Shawn(Special Olympic Champion)

 

[Lanse]

yeah, that occured to me. 'guess its back under there with a pipe wrench. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[kyleOH]

lanse.. sounds like youre just starting to have fun... like hillbilly said.. try steinkes... there real good friends of mine.. talk to dean. he may have a good used one. see darrell or susan in the parts dept. for the other stuff...

as for your rim.. dont try steinkes.. there too high.. go with roberts in morning sun (around camden) there pretty darn cheap there..

 

[Roy in georgia]

I would think that with enough heat it could ignite but don't think you will get enough heat out of a hand held torch but it might work won't hurt to try. also if you ask some of the mechanic guys you know if they have a broken bolt/stud remover they would like to show you how to use have them come over and try their luck at it. Has your father warmed up to the A.C. yet? Also does he have any skills that would be helpful maybe you should ask him to show you how to do something that way he can feel like he is teaching you and spend time with you I wanted the Farmall Super C my father got to be a project we could spend time together on but he lost interest when the radiator busted before we even got it off the trailer. I have had some practice lately fixing a good radiator so I think I am going to try that one again clean off the other repair and start again.

 

[Lanse]

Im officially a tractor expert, look at my avatar, LOL

I'll have to try to give the plug some more PB and get down there with a pipe wrench. This IS fun!! Kyle, i have posted on here every day since i got it, go back 6 or 7 or 8 pages and you'll find my first post about the tractor, then just follow it up till now

 

[Lanse]

Nope, i am on my own here. The thing is on there good & Tight, so i guess i'll try a pipe wrench some more for now.

 

[Roy in georgia]

well, I guess you need to try the hand torch but try to heat it as much as possible glowing red is the thing to shoot for al so I would thing that the oil in there would prob. just heat a little and smoke can you remove the oil pan? if so take it to school and have the auto shop teacher help you (I guess you have auto shop I don't remember how old you are or what grade you are in. also with the pan off you can see what the under side of the cylinders look like and the rods and also prep it well for paint. And also drop by a local shop that has a torch that can heat it up good I am sure a small friendly shop would be glad to help on such a small removal process.

 

[Lanse]

Yeah, i guess so. There is a small, friendly garage a few miles from here, is it possible to re-use the oil pan after the removal process?? If not anyone have another one??? Well that defeats the whole ida of removing the thing...... How should i go about this??? How do you remove the oil pan from the tractor?

 

[Anonymous-0]

In regards to the oil drain plug, why dont you take the pan off and then you can work on it from the top and from the bottom. Apply some heat one way or the other top and bottom and it sure as the heck should come out. Never heard of a oil plug that tight.

 

[Roy in georgia]

not 100% on the complete design but it should have bolts holding it on all the way around it and yes it is reusable just don't pry on it to get it to break loose use the rubber mallet to hit the sides and it should come loose (after bolts are removed)you may have to apply pressure from all sides to work it loose

 

[WeirdDeere]

When dealing with stuck parts like your drain plug, sometimes "cranking" on it with a big wrench won't work to get it loose.

Instead, get the wrench on the bolt, hold it tight with one hand (like you are trying to loosen it), and HIT the end of the wrench with a hammer (in the direction needed to loosen the bolt). Keep doing this a few times, if needed, and the impacts might break it loose. Just make sure you have a good grip on everything, don't let the wrench go flying, and make sure the wrench is tight on the bolt too, so it doesn't round off, or fly off etc.

My second suggestion is heat from a torch. I know you don't have one, but it really makes a difference!

Good luck man!
Brandon

 

[Old Timer in Ohio]

Hey there Lanse;
This may seem strange,but it's worked
for me MANY times.Try tightening that
plug first,you need to break the "bond"
that the rust has.Don't ask me to explain,
all I know is it works for me! Bob
God Bless

 

[T_Bone]

Hi Lanse,

What works sometimes for a tight bolt/nut is holding some wrench pressure on the bolt/nut then tapping the bolt/nut at the same time with a ball peen hammer.

If someone already posted this method, sorry I missed it.

T_Bone

 

[RayP(MI)]

Even a little propane torch like plumbers use may provide enough heat to free a stuck bolt. Worth a try if that"s all you got!

 

[Anonymous-0]

NO NOT A PIPE WARENCH, IT ISN'T A PIPE.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Why dont you do yourself a big favor and stop spending money till you get the engine fixed. Why paint and all the other stuff cause if it dont run you dont need anything.Pull the head and pan then you can see if you want to put another dime in the whole project. Mite be better off with one that runs cause now you dont have a clue whether it will ever run again. No tractor is any good if it dont run.

 

[Gordon in IN]

You have been given some VERY GOOD advice.

Do not spend any more money till you KNOW what you need.

Pull the head and SEE what is inside the cylinders. Follow the advice about cleaning and honing the rust out. Then "SOAK" the cylinders and pistons for a good while in some type of penetrating oil/solvent.

With the head pulled, check all the valves, valve guides, retainers and valve springs.

Pull the pan and SEE what in in there. You may find some really bad stuff. Clean the pan, clean the oil pump and oil pump pick up screen. You can then work on the PLUG from both sides and MORE EASILY drill it out if necessary. without ruining the pan or the threads for the pulg. Also clean out all the "sludge and stuff" inside the block.

Check the GEARS in the transmission and rear end. Then get the engine running and running "right".

It always best to KNOW what you have and what you are working with BEFORE you invest TOO MUCH time and money in a project.

Good luck.

 

[trucker40]

Take all the bolts out and it might fall off.If it doesnt fall off,check and make sure you have the bolts out,then try and drive as wide of a putty knife that you can find,or a gasket scraper thats made like a real wide flat screwdriver between the block and pan.Work on one side and by the time you get one side loose it will probly fall off.
A propane torch like a plummer uses is a lot better than no torch.If you heat stuff like that oil plug with it I doubt that it would set the oil on fire.What you probly want to do is remove the pan,take it to somebody that has a welder and torch.Cut the pipe fitting off of the plug and weld a nut onto the plug.By then it will most likely screw out with the cutting and welding heat done to it,and you can see if its got a bunch of ice in there keeping the crank from turning.Probly need to soak it another week anyway.It wouldnt hurt anything to take the head off and clean up everything you can.