Day one

[Lanse]

Allrighty, where to begin.

The muffler is here, it wont reach by its self to the manifold, so i guess ill have to put a section of pipe there or something. How big of a pipe do i need for that???

Also, how do i open and drain the tranny??

Also, The gas tank has a little rust in it, the antique tractor bible says something about putting a solution in there and swishing it around. It is just surface rust and not much of it.

Also, i sprayed penatrating oil (liquid wrench) on both brake levers but no news, is it advisable to wallop them with a hammer to see if it makes a difference?? They look sturdy.

Also, the Kero has been in there a week or a little more, and the owner said to jack it up on the front end so all the weight is on the crank. Sounds good to me, what do you think?? Go for it??

Thanks in advance

 

[Andy Motteberg]

PB Blaster is a excellent penetrating oil, I have taken several tractors apart with PB Blaster and it works great. I'd pull off the head, remove the kerosene (since it is not coming loose) and fill the cylinders with PB Blaster/ or brake fluid. The transmission should have a drain plug somewhere, look for it and drain it. Soak up the levers with penetrating oil and try hammering them, don't go too hard or you could break them. If they still won't come loose, you may have to heat them up or something. Put the jack on the crank, but do not put too much pressure on it, freeing up a stuck engine requires patience and hard work. I have freed up several stuck engines around here. If you still cannot get it loose, you may need to remove the head, oil pan, & rod caps and put hydraulic jack pressure and a block of wood on the cylinders to get them loose.

Good luck & have fun.

Andy.

 

[Coloken]

Lanse, I am so glad for you. I will only advise one thing based on myself at your age. You probaby don't know your own strength so be care full to not bust too many things. Yes, you will get in a hurry and brake some things till you get the feel of it. Just be patient and use lots of penetrating oil. Take your time and go slow.
Kenny

 

[mattd]

well i would not jack it up on the crank. maybe 100 lbs of force at the most. on these old tractors its easy to pull the head and soak it with your favorite penetrating oil. then pull the pan and take the rods off the crank then hammer the pistons to loosen them up. if u can take the pistons out the bottom then do it otherwise hit them out the top. if its seized in the first place then the smart thing to do would to replace rings and hone the cylinders. if u jack the tractor up with all the weight on the armstrong starter then u have a high risk of bending a rod. this is what i would do. but ive never worked on an allis. pretty rare around here. ive put sharp rocks about an inch square with again your favorite penetrating oil in the fuel tank and shake till your arms fall off then get someone else to do it.

 

[DRL]

On putting rocks in the gas tank.....
I purchased a tractor one time that the PO had started restoration but didn't put the tractor back together before he lost interest. One of the things he had done was put rocks in the gas tank with some sort of solution. I got the gas tank with rocks and all. Well.....the tank had a baffle at the filler hole. I shook that tank till my arms about fell off, used long tweezers, said a few choice words, and spent hours before I got all those rocks out. Another solution would be get a few short pieces of chain and tie a piece of rope that is long enough to leave outside the tank to each piece. Add your snake oil and then shake to your heart's desire. A lot easier getting the chain out.

 

[Heyseed]

Go slow, way too soon to resort to the wallop with a hammer. Try to be patient with this old fellow. You just started a long term relationship with this machine and the more you learn and understand about all the little things will payoff and even make you smile years from now when doing maintenance on this guy. You could hammer away but from what I have read your not rich and everything you break will just be more green out of your pocket. Have fun, keep letting us know how it is comming along.

 

[T_Bone]

I'm with Kenny, someone tie Lanse to a post for a couples hours of druling.

The way Lanse is going this baby will be out the door and ready to plow in 24hrs and that includes a new paint job.



Gee's Lanse you bring back alot of good memoires!
Thanks!

T_Bone

 

[kyplowboy]

Don't wholip nothing yet!!!!!!!!!!
You realy need to take this slow. It's along time till you need this thing in the garden. Go slow. You have not had this thing long enough to start knock'n things around with a hammer. Your toy sat for years and years you are not going to have it back to life over night. The brake levers are something you can see, you are going to find alot more stuff frozze up as you go. Get you a can of wd-40, liqid wrench, pb blaster, and any other snake oil things you can find. By the time this is done they will all be gone and you will find one that works the best for you. Spray the brakes (and anything else you find) and let it set a full day. Come back and try to move it, if it don't move spray again and go to something else. Keep doing this till you find something you can work on and leave the stuck stuff setting till it wants to move on it's own. I would not bring out the hammer for atleast another week.

Lanse, I know you think every one is picking on you but we ain't. We are just try'n to keep you from getting hurt or spending more money than you need too (arn't you glad you did not get that H in Colorado?). Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Dave

 

[Kansas Cockshutt]

The solution for the tank the article mentioned is probably acid, Phosphoric I believe. Everyone gave good ideas for the tank. I might add to use some brake cleaner (from NAPA etc) with your chain, rocks, or large nuts and bolts that you are shaking in your gas tank to help loosen and break any sludge up. Using a bungie cord around the tank hanging from something sturdy will make the agitation easier. After you are done shaking, get out all the rocks, bolts etc etc and the brake cleaner will drain off and what is left will evaporate quickly.
Then fill your dry tank with the acid mix- I am not going to tell you exactly how; not that I don't like you just I don't want to see you get hurt. Not worth getting blinded. Needless to say there are directions with the acid that come in the etching kit or perhaps have a shop teacher show you how the first time so you get the ratio of acid and water correct. This mixture will bubble and stink for awhile and leave your gas tank grey inside- no more rust. You have to neutralize the acid that is left in the tank after you pour it out by flushing it with lots of water and then get it dry so it won't rust by sloshing around acetone or alcohol to absorb any puddles of water left inside. You can save your acid for your next tank too.
There are other ways to do this, some include electricity but for just a little rust the acid will do fine. Just keep your tank full of gas to keep the moisture out and you won't have to worry about rust ever again. HTH

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you absolutely have to hit something with a hammer, get a dead blow hammer. It's less likely to break something and won't leave hammer marks all over the pieces that will look horrible, even with the best paint job in the world. If you need to pound anymore than that, hammering isn't the thing to be doing. You might have to use heat. You could try putting something heavy on the brake pedals or a spring to put pressure on them after spraying them. Take your time and do it right. You'll be more pleased with the results. It will take a long time but will have a big pay off in the end. You'll be a certified nut like the rest of the guys on here. Maybe Allan can make a special trophy with his name on it to give as an award for the craziest old iron fixer upper. Aren't you glad you stayed on the board? Have fun with it! and don't get too frustrated. There's always dynamite. Dave

 

[super99]

Steady boy, steady. It didn't get stuck overnight, it ain't comin loose overnight. If you just have to hammer on it, get the smallest hammer you can find and have at it. Soak and tap, soak and tap, soak and tap. If you take a big hammer and start beating it, you will bend, swell, swedge, & distort the piece you are beating on, might make you feel better, but ain't doin your tractor any good. Forget about WD 40. Get some PB Blaster or Kroil. Got some small pieces? Do some experimenting with homemade solutions. Small parts in a can or bucket. Can of Coke soda pop, supposed to eat a nail left in the pop too long, vinegar is supposed to disolve rust, try some drain cleaner (outside in the fresh air), I've heard that bleach will eat rust, but never tried it, ATF and Diesel or kerosene mix. Small pieces with small amounts of different things to experiment with. Do you have access to a cutting torch? Sometimes heat is the only answer. Take your time and BE CAREFUL!!! Chris

 

[Lanse]

I am goint to TSC tonight for a few things, and i guess PB and ATF is worth a shot since i guess the kerosine isnt working. Which would you go with ATF or PB???

 

[hillbillyOH]

The crank idea is a bad one. Don't do it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well done Lance with your first tractor, take your time and ask plenty of questions. Over the years i have freed many siezed engines by putting diesel fuel in the plug holes and putting a jack under the starting crank on the upward stroke till the front wheels are off the ground but pe prepaired to leave it several days/weeks. Good luck. MJ

 

[Anonymous-0]

Soak, heat and tap! use a small brass or ball pein hmmer DO NOT GIVE IN TO THE TEMPTATION TO GIVE ANYTHING A HEALTHY SWAT

 

[WilMan]

Before you do or buy anything. Buy an operators manual, and a factory and/or IT service manual and start reading and studying those first. Will answer a lot of questions on where certain things are on the tractor etc.

 

[Richard G.]

One of my favorite stuck piston juice is a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery oil and gasoline. The gas thins it enough to take it in tight places and gets the oil where it needs to be. It just takes about a half cupfull per cylinder.
Richard

 

[Anonymous-0]

Theres a HarborFreight just east of you at 1941 Needmore, Dayton. Things like deadblow hammers are much cheaper there. Don't blunder in there with a wad of cash though.....BTDT
Also that jacking up the front is to just put some pressure on the pistons (crankshaft)so put a chock under the rear tires to keep the tractor from rolling far when the pistons unstick.

 

[Paul from MI]

Lanse,
That Allis gas tank has a filler neck that extends into the tank. If you put anything it it to clean it you will have to get it out the filler hole with the tank right side up. Old bolts & nuts can be gotten out with a magnet. Rocks or deburring media are not magnetic and will be a real problem to get out. Don't ask me how I know.
Getting anything that is rusted fast to move is amatter of patience and then more patience. Unless you can afford to replace it, forget the hammer. Trick is to get the rusted aprts loose without damaging anything else. You can put a lot more force on rods, cranks, valve gear, etc. than it was designed to handle if you afren't careful. My suggestion is to disassemble as much as you possibly can before using any force.
Get all o f the books you can, they will be vary valauble when you put it back together. Good luck,
Paul

 

[ArleninOr]

Lanse,first congrats on your tractor. Like everyone says go slow. Got a book yet? If not spray and soak everything until your book gets there.Then spray and soak everything again and go read the book cover to cover Twice Then start at the begining. Worked for my 16 yr old son as he then understood why us OLD FOGEYS take our time with this old iron. Have fun and don't get frustrated if something doesn't happen on the first try. HAVE FUN

 

[Anonymous-0]

OH Yeah and go to Dollar Store for a turkey baster to get most stuff out of the gas tank. On a tank this size you'll need a hose of some kind on the end though.

 

[Andy Motteberg]

"DO NOT GIVE IN TO THE TEMPTATION TO GIVE ANYTHING A HEALTHY SWAT"

What are you talking about???

 

[Dairy Farmer in WI]

i don't know how good it is to put all the weight on the crank with the front tires off and let 'er fall . first it might bend the crank and chip yer nice cement floors and such. what i would do is find say a ...26" pipe wrench and put it on the front pully where the crank comes out, but to do this ya might have to take the sheet metal off and the rad. hoses. also you might wanna take the radiator off to have it pressure checked and it might hvae rust in it too.what i hear works real good, but is real dangerous and ya might not wanna do in yer shop, is to pour diesel or kerosine in the cylinders with the head off, and you light the fuel on fire. the heat from the fire will usually loosen up or heat the pistions so they will come loose. you just might wanna do that unless you have supervision and a fire suit. if yer dad is around have him do it otherwise i repeat, THIS IS DANGERIOUS THAT WAY! also be sure to have the gas tank off if there is anyhting in it. PB blaster is a much safer approach to it. mix that with marvel mistery oil and get a big pipe wrench and a long pipe for more leverage.
be careful and have LOTSA FUN. old iron is real fun to work on and bring back to life
have much fun and be safe
DF in WI