Deere B RPM's

[69val6]

I have a 46 b that"s running a little low on RPM"s. I"ve adjusted the throttle stop screw on the dash all the way out so that the throttle goes as far back as possible. The engine, carb and mag are all rebuilt and it runs great otherwise. It made 25 hp on the PTO dyno, but it couldn"t hit 540 rpm even without a load on it. I would like to get the engine rpm up to 1375 rpm which is what the div. 1 pulling max. allows. This should get the PTO RPM well over 540. Do I need a new or heavier spring arm on the governor? I have an extra spring from a parts tractor. Could I stack the two of them? Any suggestions?

Thanks, Joel

 

[jd b puller]

If you grab the throttle plate on the carb and hold it wide open, do the RPM's spike above 1375? If not, it's not the governor.

 

[Mike Aylward]

First of all, do NOT use two springs on the governor. It will let you get a higher engine speed but will effectively kill your torque rise in the engine. Buy ONE new spring and your governor will work much better. Be sure the governor to carburetor rod is properly adjusted (mentioned many times on here). You also want to be sure there isn't any binding in the throttle linkage, including the throttle shaft. If these things do not improve your tractor's throttle response, engine speed and torque rise you may have to do some work inside the governor itself. If you get to that point we can walk you through it. Mike

 

[FactoryFarmer]

Start stacking springs and if that's not enough you can start putting different lengths of 1/8" bar stock on there as well. Basically, you play until you have reached your desired RPMs.

My G used to have three springs and a 3 inch piece of stock and it still wasn't enough so I now bypassed the governor and have a cable going directly to the carb to get 2500.

 

[PopinJohn]

I,ve seen two springs stacked like you said and it help raise top rpm. The second spring is added to the outside of the original to provide backup tensioning. A few tries will show which way you are going.

 

[Anonymous-0]

How do you slow rpms down if running way to fast??? thanks Ive checked the bolt at the steering pedistol, and the leakage to carb still way to many rpms

 

[Anonymous-0]

thanks

 

[69val6]

Will the engine idle down? If not, make sure the cotter pin that holds the throttle rod in the carb. comes in from the clutch side, then bend the end around the rear side. If you don't, the cotter pin will bind against the carb. and not let it idle down all the way. I just found that out tonight when I checked the rod adjustment.

 

[69val6]

I checked the adjustment on the carb. rod. It was set at about 1-1/2 holes off. Basically it was in all the way. I re-adjusted it to 1/2 hole and fired it back up. I lost what seemed like 200 rpm from where it was at. It also surged at all rpm's with no load. I adjusted it back to 1-1/2 holes out. The rpm's came back to where it was before and ran smooth again. I also checked for binding in the linkage but didn't find any other problems. I also looked at the flat spring with everything disconnected. It all looks straight. I could understand the spring losing tension over the past 66 years. I'll buy a new spring from Deere if it's still available. If not I'll try stacking them.

 

[Anonymous-0]

ideals down great you can count fan blades nearly but way to many rpms with very little gas throttle

 

[jd b puller]

(quoted from post at 13:30:41 09/01/12) ideals down great you can count fan blades nearly but way to many rpms with very little gas throttle

Rick, with the engine off, open the throttle all the way. Open the throttle plate on the carb all the way. where is the linkage relative to the hole on the throttle arm?