diesel cool weather starting

[George Best]

I have a 1967 3 cylinder diesel Ford 4000.

When the tractor is cold I think it takes more cranking than I'd like for it to start. It has a good battery, but I wonder if when the weather really gets cold if the battery will last long enough for it to start.

It does start, but just takes longer than I think it should. When the engine starts the exhaust clears up immediately so I'm assuming the engine itself is in pretty good shape.

There is a preheat button below the starting key, which I've been holding in a few seconds a couple of times, but not sure it is really helping that much.

I haven't checked yet to confirm that this button is really accomplishing anything or not. Not really sure where or what to check to confirm it is working.

Hopefully the preheat isn't up to snuff. But if it is working properly, what would be the next thing to check to improve cold starting?

At least the Ford starts without needing ether like my Case 900!

 

[Brian Bell]

Sounds like the glow plugs may not be doing their thing. I don't know if your 4000 has them in the intake or cylinders. I would be sure that when the button is depressed that you have voltage to the plugs. May want to try holding it down a bit longer too. I remember an IH 656 that I used to mess with that you had to hold the preheat button 30-45 seconds before it would even attempt to start.

 

[souNdguy]

Ditto what BB said.

Trace that line from that switch and see where it goes.. look for glow plugs / thermostart devices. I don't own a 4000.. but those will be the normal pre-heat devices to look for. If a glow plug.. check that it is getting power.. if it is, then check it with an ohm meter to ground after removing wire. and open/infinite reading mean's it's bad.. etc.

Cold weather takes longer to start due to taking the engine longer to build up heat via compression.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[Treeguy]

I have the very same tractor but without the factory cold weather start system. Just bought the 4000 and have been tossing around installing a tank heater or a freeze plug heater for the upper midwest winters. In the past I had problems with the plug heaters leaking, but not on tractors. You could install a heater for super cold conditions. Question: Has anyone else used the freeze plug heaters without leaking problems, if so, what brand. Or, should I cut the leak odds and just go to a tank heater. Thanks

 

[TimPa]

i decided against the freeze plug heater because of the trouble getting to it. i opted for the coolant hose heater type. my outside kept '78 3600 has no starting assit devices. i recommend keeping a lower viscocity oil in the tranny for winter season to help, and keeping it other wise tuned up. but like someone else mentioned, i think you have to hold the button longer.

 

[sotxbill]

if its a 3 cyl 4000 and the button really goes to the preheat on the intake manifold.. hold it for 15 seconds and the manifold should be very warm around the glow plug/ thermostart.. make sure the fuel line to the themostart is hooked up correctly as it in needed for the thermostart to heat up correctly.

goodluck.. bill

 

[Greg Wolodkin]

I picked up a freeze plug heater two years ago from my local Ford dealer. I'm pretty sure it was a CNH part. Installing it was easy, and I haven't had any problems with it leaking.

My tractor also has the thermostart but on really cold mornings it's hard to beat the block heater.

Greg

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have a '68 3400 with a Simms injector pump.
This pump has a button that allows more fuel to go into the cylinders for cold starting.
Push in the fuel shut off knob, pull the throttle lever back all the way. Where the throttle cable connects at the pump there is a lever arm that connects to a shaft. push in on the end of the shaft you will hear a "click"
Start the tractor, as it turns over let off on the throttle and the button will pop back out.
( I have not found these directions in the Ford owners or service manuals)
I only turn on the intake heater for 15 seconds at the most.

 

[RodinNS]

Hold the thermostart on longer. Here in the great white north where it gets cold, that means 30-40 seconds before you try to crank. If it fires and then goes back to hard cranking, stop cranking and heat it again for another 20-30 seconds. The thermostart should start that engine down to 0 F, or very close to that point if the engine is healthy. Beyond that, get a block heater. Dealing with a hose heater on those things isn't easy either because it's hard to get a hose on with the little flexibility that's there. The block heater can beinstalled without removing the starter but it isn't easy. I've never had trouble with any of them leaking, but they are all sourced from NewHolland as well... They do burn out over time though. The ones we leave plugged in all the time burn out in less than a year, which is one very good reason to keep the thermostart working properly.
Generally, if you can 'plan' when you need the tractor, 1-2 hours is all a 600 watt heater needs to get that block plenty warm.
We were just in a situation for several years where we might need any tractor to start at a minutes notice, so they were all on the cord, 24/7 for 4 months of the year...

Rod

 

[Brian in MA]

Sounds like quite an electric bill for 4 months.

 

[RodinNS]

It was a hell of an electric bill. We bought a NewHolland LS170 skid steer to do most of the work that those tractors were doing. We keep the LS in the barn where it's warm through the winter. There's nothing plugged in now unless there's a storm on that we may need the generator for. In all honesty, what we saved on the electric bill came close to making the PAYMENTS on the LS for the winter months. I don't miss the block heaters too much as you can imagine.
I think the draw was something like 600W, 600W, 600W, and 1500W on the big one... so that's 3.3 KW/H's x an average of 22h a day... ~70 kw/day @ 8.5 cents an hour....

Rod