Dodge p/u transmission...Argggg!

[Brad Buchanan]

hey folks.

I have a '97 Dodge pickup 2500 with a 360 engine.

I had loaned the truck out and when I got it back the transmission was slipping in first gear.

I pulled the pan and found that the screen was full of aluminum. Also the fluid that they had put in was the wrong type- seemed to be higher viscosity

Changed the fluid (what was in the pan) and new screen. No metal parts in the pan other than some aluminum dust.

It started to just start in high gear and then to hunt a bit but now shifts somewhat better. Slippage is pretty much gone.

Can the trans be damaged by the wrong fluid?

This trans was replaced a year ago with a junkyard unit and I have the original. I am considering trying a rebuild. Can a torque converter be tested easily?

Thanks for any help and comments!

Brad

 

[Mike M]

Wrong fluid will harm them as will the improper level.

Dodges are different as in the fluid is to be checked in neutral and NOT PARK like other brands.
I figure more Dodges got ruined trannies from people checking them in park as then the fluid is WAY low.

 

[Wile E]

Check manual and the EXACT fluid required. Viscosity is important so as moving valve spools and stuff. Change filter too. I do not know how to test a torque convt. but.........A trans rebuild place should. good luck.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yes the wrong fluid can and will damage dodge transmissions. You want to use Mopar ATF+4 and nothing else.

 

[D7fever]

put in a quart of TRANS-X, it will help, don't overfill it , drain out a quart first.

 

[timcasbolt]

Always look at the dipstick for information. It will usually say what kind of fluid and whether to check it in park or neutral.

 

[Sprint 6]

Dodges require what is called ATF+4. It is peculiar to Chrysler products. I would have adjusted the bands, too. Check fluid in neutral at idle, fluid level will show high in park, not low.

 

[T in NE]

They need checked running in nuetral once they are hot- to ensure that the fluid is pumped into all the places it needs to be.
As long as they used some sort of transmission or trans/hydraulic fluid it shouldn't hurt it. A lot of guys use HY-GUARD in them, the clutches hold a little better than the ATF+4 (which really is a junk fluid). How often do you change the fluid? Any amount of towing, off-road, city driving, it's only good for about 15-20,000 miles, tops.
If the screen was full of aluminum shavings I'd say you're on borrowed time. Get the old trans rebuilt and ready to put in it. Or send it off and get a built one for it.
band and line pressure adjustment

trans rebuild thread

another rebuild thread

 

[Bob]

Where do you suppose the fluid went to incite the loanee to use the wrong fluid... a slow leak, or did they blow a cooler line or have some other major leak and drive it 'til it wouldn't move anymore?

If a 4 X 4, did you look for the missing fluid in the transfer case?

 

[ASEguy]

The wrong fluid didn't put the aluminum in the pan. As posted, you are on borrowed time and fortunate it still pulls. Get the other one rebuilt ASAP and swap it out. You MUST flush the cooler or you most certainly harm the reman. unit. Sounds like someone pulled VERY hard in low without selecting manual low on the shifter and the one way clutch at the back of the case is slipping in the case. In my opinion ATF+4 is not junk fluid. Gerard

 

[ASEguy]

Sorry Bob. Meant to post to Brad.

 

[Brad Buchanan]

hey guys.

Thanks for the great replies and information!

The trans stopped pulling last night and was towed to my shop this morning.

If I can't find a good used I will probably try my hand at a rebuild. I plan to dedicate a place in the shop to do the work undisturbed.

I have a good working selection of tools and measuring equipment and can fabricate some special tools.

If there is interest I will document my adventures and post to the site.

Thanks again,

Brad

 

[T in NE]

I just thought, those are A518's in those threads, the 46RE descended from the A500. While the layout/design/function is identical, yours will have lighter-duty parts and the mechanism for the lock-up converter. I posted them so you'd have an idea what it takes.

Oh, and DO get a good aftermarket converter, too! From Goerend, or Suncoast, somebody. They'll build you one special that's a lot tighter than stock. Put more power to the ground because it slips a lot less (and makes less heat). Wouldn't hurt to replace the auxiliary cooler and radiator, either, as debris can easily get caught in them and get flushed out later.

If you replace (or add) an auxiliary cooler, get the absolute biggest one you can fit. Heat is the enemy.

I'd replace the valve body as well. Performance v/b's have it opened up so that it will circulate fluid in park and not just neutral.

performance shops can also set them up so that you can lock the converter in 1 and 2nd gear. Then all it takes is a little wire, a switch, and a resistor and you can control it manually. You can get a little more engine braking that way, or if you're having to tow at a low speed for some reason, you can lock it up and avoid putting a lot of heat into the fluid.

Of course, if the body is shot, you may be just as well off to toss some stock parts back in 'er and be done.

Whatever you do, STAY AWAY FROM DTT TRANSMISSION!!! They had (note HAD) a good reputation, but the kid took over from the dad and they buy and resell oe spec parts out of the basement now. They don't even remove the shipping labels from the boxes before sending them back out, just stick their shipping label over the old one.

 

[Brad Buchanan]

Hey T.

Thanks for the information. It is really appreciated.

I have a book I bought for a Ford transmission I have in an explorer from ATSG I believe aand they sell parts. Any info on this outfit?

Brad

 

[T in NE]

ATSG looks more like a trade group with informational materials available. I'm not finding much in the way of parts on their website. Their manuals may be some of the best as they have a large pool of expertise to draw from. Or thy could be lousy, with the thought that anyone using their manuals already knows a fair bit about what they are working on.

I've got the factory service manual for my 90 but that doesn't do you a lot of good. I may get their A500/518/618 (A618 was the diesel version of the 518, different bell and bigger fluid passages) and see what it's got, as I've got 2 transmissions to take care of and one needing rebuilt.