Dumb Question about using a press

[nondem]

I'm taking my linkage to a friends house this weekend to press in the new cam pin that came with Zane's jig. The friend has a Harbor Freight press but likely has never (properly) used it.
My friend has shown a lack of expertise in using his tools in the past - If it weren't for Harbor Freight unscrupulously selling him stuff we would all be much safer.
So anyway - I've never used a press either...and there is also the likelihood that the poor quality press might kill us even if we do it right.

Stupid Question: Is it best to chill the pin before attempting to press it into the linkage or should all this be done at room temperature?

 

[Bob]

It certainly couldn't HURT to chill the pin, but it's probably NOT necessary.

Big thing is to support the lever well, and get the pin started STRAIGHT.

 

[EWS]

nondem
I just set my linkage over a deep socket backed up by an anvil and used a drift with a slightly smaller diam than the pin. A couple wacks and it"s out. To install I laid the linkage on the anvil and tapped the pin in with a hammer. Took about 3 min. max.
Eric

 

[Ed S.]

Nondem,

Anything can kill you if used improperly. Wear safety glasses for sure, and gloves and a heavy long sleeve coat if you're really retentive.

Just keep in mind you're binding up tremendous energy when you start pumping on the press - make sure that energy is being applied straight into the part (not at an angle - it will pop out like a rifle shot).

Here's my HF press, which I used to remove and install my front axle kingpin:

This press was not large enough to remove the radius arm pin on one side, so I used a 20 ton bottle in a larger press frame, with a hardened punch to drift the pin out. The punch was starting to bow when the pin finally let go (after application of heat) - I stood to the side behind the press side supports in case anything let go while I was pumping.

Just go slow and think through what you're doing and you'll be fine. Freezing your pin should help it go in easier, but you'll need to move fast...

es

 

[CJ in Michigan]

I got a Harbor Freight shop press to do the wheel bearings in our cars. Quality is not bad-it's a simple device. Just take your time.

 

[bison]

my advise would be to either press the parts together in the vice[if big enough so you can take it slow] or take the parts to a shop that knows how to operate a press properly.
A press can be a dangerous tool in inexperienced hands.

chilling a part for easy'r fitting depends on how much interference is build in to keep it tight after assembly,but is not always nessecairy.The tractor manual will usually tell you if a part needs to be chilled before assembly.

 

[JW Axtell]

You really don't need a press to uninstall/install the cam follower pin. Use the method posted by EWS in this thread.
You can have the job all done by the time it takes you get to your friend's place. Even if he lives next door

 

[Anonymous-0]

My father in law worked in a big machine plant during WW2.They had a large part in a big hydraulic press. the part got loose and went thru the toilet door.A fellow who was in one of the stalls came running out trying to hold his pants up.Took a long time to calm him down.

 

[nondem]

(quoted from post at 19:16:21 02/25/09) My father in law worked in a big machine plant during WW2.They had a large part in a big hydraulic press. the part got loose and went thru the toilet door.A fellow who was in one of the stalls came running out trying to hold his pants up.Took a long time to calm him down.

The big socket and hammer worked fine in and out. I had the pin chilled and I used the pin that I drove out when I put the new starter drive on as a drift.

Thanks for all the advice...Now I just need some gasket remover spray to get the old gasket residue off...Wire brush/drill ain't hackin it.

 

[DallasGa]

Now I just need some gasket remover spray to get the old gasket residue off...Wire brush/drill ain't hackin it.

I've never meet a gasket that could stand up to a sharp flat scraper.

 

[jdaugh]

The key to good gasket scraping is a SHARP blade! Otherwise, you run the risk of removing as much metal as you do gasket which leads to...leaks!

The best thing is a single-edged razor blade in one of those metal holder-thingies. (Maybe two dollars?) Sure, you could spend ten to twenty dollars on a "gasket scraper" that you'd have to sharpen on a grinder. Of course, you'd also have to buy the grinder....

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 23:25:02 02/25/09) The key to good gasket scraping is a SHARP blade! Otherwise, you run the risk of removing as much metal as you do gasket which leads to...leaks!

The best thing is a single-edged razor blade in one of those metal holder-thingies. (Maybe two dollars?) Sure, you could spend ten to twenty dollars on a "gasket scraper" that you'd have to sharpen on a grinder. Of course, you'd also have to buy the grinder....

I have always used a "putty knife" with a 45* angle bent on it from the factory.

I put my own edge, on it, at my angle preference.

It will scrape, it will chisel, or whatever, and not cut the cast.

And it will last for decades, keep the right sharp angle on it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

YOU WOULD DO WELL TO COVER THE PRESS WITH A OLD BLANKET OR EVEN A OLD PIECE OF TARP! MAKE SURE THE PIECE YOU ARE PRESSING IS STRAIGHT. I HAVE SEEN BEARING HOUSINGS EXPLODE AND PIERCE BLOCK WALLS. AT THE VERY LEAST WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. A PRESSURE GAUGE ON THE RAM WOULD HELP. 8-N-PETE

 

[gahorN]

Since no specification exists for the required pressure to do this job.... what possible use would a pressure gauge serve?