I have done several things that were dumb by not knowing how to do it right or just plain old messing up.
1) I was never around older AC tractors much. I switched engines in a D-14 for a fellow. I pulled the old filter off and installed a new one. I then tried to spin the motor to check the old pressure. I had zero flow. So I removed the front axle and dropped the oil pan to re-check the oil pump out. Everything looked great. I tried to blow air up through the oil pressure side and could not get any flow. Pulled the oil filter off and had flow. What was my mistake???? Well the tube that is supposed to stay in the oil filter housing came out in the old filter. I just glanced at the new filter and saw some thing sticking in the middle of it. Assuming it was a new tube. WRONG!!!! It was a wooden dowel just to keep the filter hole open during shipping/storage. That little dowel fit right down into the hole were the oil tube came out of. It made a perfect PLUG. I only wasted most of a day on this. LOL
2) I had a JD 5010 for a few years. When I bought it the engine was taken apart with a spun number one main bearing. It actually had cracked the block through the main bearing bolt holes. So it could not be lined bored or salvaged easily. I found a block and did a complete overhaul on the tractor. The ventilator pump had gear taken out of it when they had installed an M&W turbo on the tractor. The tractor ran great but would not hold oil pressure when it was hot. I had the oil pump out of it twice and plastigaged the main bearings again. I even pulled the front cover off and removed the cam to see if one of the new cam bearings had gotten damaged or was installed wrong. Still low oil pressure when warm. So with the oil pump out I made an adaptor plate that fit where the oil pump did. I made a small tank that I could fill with oil and then apply air pressure to it. This would fill the oil galley on the motor. I was looking for where I was losing the oil pressure. Found it!!! When they had removed the gears they had removed the front drive gear and the shaft that drove the internal gear too. This left and open hole in the ventilator pump housing that was there to lube the input shaft of the ventilator. It cost me 3-4 days of work. I bet that is what made the original main bearings go out.
3) This one was just a dumb move made while I was dead tired. In the mid 1980s things where tight. I was working in town and still farming as much as I did before the town job. I had bought a worn out IH 666 to use as a planter tractor. The engine needed overhauled due to cavitation in the sleeves. Water in the oil. I did not have the money to do a full overhaul. So I took the motor apart and inspected everything real close. Well the pistons showed little wear. They measured in spec. So I found a set of used sleeves. I bought new rings, rod & main bearings and a gasket set. The tractor started and ran great. So I started planting. After about 50 hours it started to have a bottom end knock at lower RPMs. I limped it along and got the corn planted. I pulled the oil pan off and found that I had inverted the rod bearing halves on the number six rod. So the oil hole was in the cap end not the top so the wrist pen had not been getting any lubrication. It had worn the rod enough the piston would slap. You could hear it a lower RPMs. I was able to just replace that rod and piston. I reused the rod bearing and piston rings. I sold the tractor before the next spring. A neighbor bought it. I told him exactly what I had done. He ahs put over 5000 hours on that motor and not touched it. I have replaced the clutch and TA but nothing to the motor. The injectors and injection pump are still the original ones. They still have factory paint on them. It has over 11,000 hours on it. I was hoping to maybe get another season or two with the rigged up "overhaul". Then the darn thing is still running. LOL
So here are three mistakes I will admit to in public. LOL There are others but they will NOT be open to the general public. LOL
1) I was never around older AC tractors much. I switched engines in a D-14 for a fellow. I pulled the old filter off and installed a new one. I then tried to spin the motor to check the old pressure. I had zero flow. So I removed the front axle and dropped the oil pan to re-check the oil pump out. Everything looked great. I tried to blow air up through the oil pressure side and could not get any flow. Pulled the oil filter off and had flow. What was my mistake???? Well the tube that is supposed to stay in the oil filter housing came out in the old filter. I just glanced at the new filter and saw some thing sticking in the middle of it. Assuming it was a new tube. WRONG!!!! It was a wooden dowel just to keep the filter hole open during shipping/storage. That little dowel fit right down into the hole were the oil tube came out of. It made a perfect PLUG. I only wasted most of a day on this. LOL
2) I had a JD 5010 for a few years. When I bought it the engine was taken apart with a spun number one main bearing. It actually had cracked the block through the main bearing bolt holes. So it could not be lined bored or salvaged easily. I found a block and did a complete overhaul on the tractor. The ventilator pump had gear taken out of it when they had installed an M&W turbo on the tractor. The tractor ran great but would not hold oil pressure when it was hot. I had the oil pump out of it twice and plastigaged the main bearings again. I even pulled the front cover off and removed the cam to see if one of the new cam bearings had gotten damaged or was installed wrong. Still low oil pressure when warm. So with the oil pump out I made an adaptor plate that fit where the oil pump did. I made a small tank that I could fill with oil and then apply air pressure to it. This would fill the oil galley on the motor. I was looking for where I was losing the oil pressure. Found it!!! When they had removed the gears they had removed the front drive gear and the shaft that drove the internal gear too. This left and open hole in the ventilator pump housing that was there to lube the input shaft of the ventilator. It cost me 3-4 days of work. I bet that is what made the original main bearings go out.
3) This one was just a dumb move made while I was dead tired. In the mid 1980s things where tight. I was working in town and still farming as much as I did before the town job. I had bought a worn out IH 666 to use as a planter tractor. The engine needed overhauled due to cavitation in the sleeves. Water in the oil. I did not have the money to do a full overhaul. So I took the motor apart and inspected everything real close. Well the pistons showed little wear. They measured in spec. So I found a set of used sleeves. I bought new rings, rod & main bearings and a gasket set. The tractor started and ran great. So I started planting. After about 50 hours it started to have a bottom end knock at lower RPMs. I limped it along and got the corn planted. I pulled the oil pan off and found that I had inverted the rod bearing halves on the number six rod. So the oil hole was in the cap end not the top so the wrist pen had not been getting any lubrication. It had worn the rod enough the piston would slap. You could hear it a lower RPMs. I was able to just replace that rod and piston. I reused the rod bearing and piston rings. I sold the tractor before the next spring. A neighbor bought it. I told him exactly what I had done. He ahs put over 5000 hours on that motor and not touched it. I have replaced the clutch and TA but nothing to the motor. The injectors and injection pump are still the original ones. They still have factory paint on them. It has over 11,000 hours on it. I was hoping to maybe get another season or two with the rigged up "overhaul". Then the darn thing is still running. LOL
So here are three mistakes I will admit to in public. LOL There are others but they will NOT be open to the general public. LOL