eagle hitch plows

[kenbob]

I still hope to find a 2 bottom eagle hitch plow in the future. I am no expert on plows or plowing. We had a 3-16 Case pull type on the farm and dad did most of the plowing while I did the milking. I see these plows with a turnbuckle type brace and some with hydraulic rams. What is the purpose of the turnbuckle. Does the hydraulic cylinder to make it bite into the ground better? I have a Ford plow for my VAC and it seems the geometry is quite a bit different. I always have trouble with the rear bottom going in deep enough, even though I have it set per the manual and have the middle arm short so the points bite.
Thanks for any info. Something to discuss while some of us are cooped up.

 

[rfdmn]

Have you tried lengthening the third link to allow the back bottom to run deeper?

 

[connor9988]

The hydraulic adjust option for the plow allowed for the operator to change the angle of the plow on-the-go. This let the operator increase the angle of penetration when lowering the plow into the ground for better penetration as well as helped the operator regulate depth since the Eagle Hitch did not utilize depth control like the Ford and Ferguson. The depth of the plow was supposed to be regulated by the angle of the plows points and as the plow was lowered in its arc it would at some point (in relation to the angle of the the share points) reach an even travel compared to it's plowing depth. It seems like one of those things where you would need to plow ALOT with that setup to have a good understanding of how your plow is plowing.

For plows without this option hydraulic toplinks come in handy. It achieves the same kind of results. I use a hydraulic toplink on my MRB plow since it does not have the optional factory hydraulic control (good luck trying to find one of THOSE nowadays).

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[kenbob]

I have tried it both ways. From what I read, the shorter the top link, the more severe the angle, the more it will dig. I have tried it both ways. My problem is my
rows are all 100' or shorter so I can barely get a run at it to get it set right. I have 7500 sq ft of garden in hard Missouri clay. ANy type of action with the plow
(even shallow) goes a long way to allowing the soil to dry out so it can be worked.

 

[kenbob]

So those with no hydraulics have that arm between the top link and the back of the plow. IT seems to have a turnbuckle on it. What does that do. Wondering ahead as my VAC does not have hydraulics.

 

[BarryfromIA]

Use the crank on the lift link to level the plow in the furrow. After you have plowed a short distance stop with the plow in the ground and take a tape measure and measure the distance from the bottom of the plow beam to the ground on both beams they should be the same or level with the ground. See if this helps.

 

[connor9988]

The turnbuckle on the plow mast allows for it to be adjusted to the right average plowing angle based on the types of plow bottoms being used as well as the type of eagle hitch tractor being used. I?m pretty sure the geometry and length of sc/sc toplink is different compared to that of the rock island (vac,300ect) tractors.

 

[kenbob]

That makes sense.

 

[Mike Fitz]

A fast and dirty way to get more penetration on the back bottom is add a couple of wheel weights as far back on the plow as you can get them, crude but effective. Proper tractor and plow set up are the right way to do it, but in a small plot like a garden it is hard to figure out what needs to be done.

 

[RonSa]

Check and see if the share points and the share cutting edges are rounded on the bottom side. If so, grind the bottom sides to get rid of the rounds. These rounds creates a significant upward force to push the plow upward.

Typically as the rounds push up, the shallower soil is softer and the rounds push up less. This causes the plow to choose a depth to run which is usually less than the depth we want.

If the plow wants to go too deep with the rounds gone, add a gage wheel at the left back.

 

[kenbob]

That may be part of my problem. There is a new shear on the front but not the back.

 

[Mark-Ia]

I have this. Located 60 miles north of Des Moines.

 

[kenbob]

WOuld anybody care to comment on this plow. It doesnt look exactly like any I have found in Case photos.

 

[kenbob]

Meaning the photos posted from Mark-IA

 

[RonSa]

Regarding the 2 bottom plow posted, see the green member on the plow that I posted here.

That member on the 2 bottom plow is home-made and the plow lacks an important function. It lacks the pivot function.

Notice on my plow the green bar sticks back and fits loosely into a slot. This allows the green member to pivot a few degrees in both directions around a pin about 2 feet forward.

Case added this pivot function to their plows, used with the Eagle Hitch, mainly because the Eagle Hitch draft arms did not provide the "sway and pivot" function---- that most all other 3 point hitches on other brands provide. The main purpose of the "sway and pivot" function is it allows the tractor to easily steer around moderate curves.

The "sway and pivot" function, on most all 3P hitches, allows the mounted implement to move sideway (sway) and also to pivot relative to the tractor.

A pull-type implement hooked to the drawbar also requires these two functions. This is accomplished by simply using a drawbar pivot pin and sometimes is further aided by a swinging drawbar. A pull-type implement both pivots and moves sideways (sways)---or as often said the implement "cuts across" rather than follow the tractor exactly.

Regarding the 3P hitch, Case got their act together beginning with their 30 series. The Eagle Hitch plow was given only the pivot function. The sway function is next to impossible to design into a mounted plow. The sway function has to be designed into the draft arms of a 3P hitch. The pivot function, without the sway function, only "half solved" the steering-around-curves problem. I have had two Eagle plows and experienced the steering around curves problem.

 

[kenbob]

I found a picture on the interweb identifying it as an e25r Case plow.

 

[kenbob]

Yes, I thought all eagle hitch plows had the pivot but I guess that is not so. For my purposes it is all straight row plowing so ones without the pivot would work. Those don't seem as substantial as the ones with the pivot.

 

[connor9988]

Mark IAs plow is a genuine Case plow. I have one just like it.

 

[kenbob]

Thanks for posting all the manual pages. I have a lot better idea how those plows work. Was Case the only one with a break away option? I know my ford plow doesn't have it. All the weird metal work on top of the plow all makes sense now.

 

[kenbob]

Connor, Have you ever tried to get moldboards or shears for your plow. Was just wondering it they are still available.