electric conversion kit

just wondering if it is worth it to spend the 160 bucks to convert my 6 volt? I use the tractor for plowing in the winter only. I am always having a hard time starting it, and the usually always leads to an electrical problem i.e. no spark, bad points, etc. any thoughts?
 
Scott,Spend your dollars on quality blue streak points and condenser,quality rotor and cap,copper wires and all gaskets and new autolite 437 plugs.A 6 volt electric conversion kit does not work very well,(low voltage thing).
 
This debate comes up here w/ such frequency that you would benefit from doing an archives search on the topic. Generally speaking, you will find a few facts, a lot of opinion, & unfortunately, a little BS. And sometimes you will find factual information that isn’t the least bit relevant to a 12v conversion on a 23 hp, 60 year old tractor. ("the auto industry did it 40 years ago")

Generally speaking, the opinions can be grouped in three broad categories:

1. 12v conversions are the greatest invention since sliced bread.

2. If it's not broke, don't fix it.

3. Spend whatever it takes to keep it 6v.

From my experience, I've only found two reasons to convert an N to 12v: If you need to run 12v equipment (sprayers, pumps, lights, etc) or your N has poor compression (like less than 90 lbs) and you do not want to rebuild it, then a 12v conversion makes sense. If an N is hard to start in cold weather (or any weather) find out why & fix it! These tractors have low compression, low HP engines and will start just fine on 6v. There is nothing inherently 'wrong' w/ a 12v conversion. The problem is that there are about 6 different ways to convert the tractor to 12v, all of them work, and an infinite number of ways to do it wrong. If you have a basic understanding of tractor mechanics, you can buy a quality kit & do it correctly. Or, you can buy an alternator & fabricate brackets if you are skilled at that sort of stuff. Of course, if you have a basic understanding of tractor mechanics, you could just as easily fix the problem that you are trying to cure with the 12v conversion. Most problems we read about w/ 12v conversions are as a result of folks getting in over their heads trying to fabricate a conversion, using inferior kits or using kits w/ directions written in Chinese, or buying tractors w/ "Bubba" conversions and now the new owner is stuck with trying to figure it out. I can tell you that a wage earning mechanic known to many of us on this board summed up every conversion kit he was familiar with by saying that all are bad & some are worse. He makes his own for that very reason.

Now before the 12v advocates give me a spanking, let me add that lots of folks around here have 12v conversions & are perfectly happy w/ them because the conversions were done correctly. 12v is also more forgiving of poor grounds/weak cables, etc than 6v, so keeping everything "clean, bright & tight" in the system is not as critical. 12v gives you twice as much current & a faster spinning starter. And, because 6v headlights are 35w & 12v are 55w, the headlights are brighter.

You will spend probably $160 for a kit. If you install it correctly you will have an easy starting tractor for a long time. And, the 12 conversion will have just about nothing to do w/ the good performance. What will make the real difference is the new wiring, cables, clean grounds & new battery.

All four of my N's are 6v & they all four start the first time, every time, no matter what the weather. You will find that to be the case with folks who live in a lot of places much colder than VA. Plenty of 6v tractors start just fine in MI, NY, WI.....and have been doing so for years. Because they have the correct size cables, good batteries, & clean, bright & tight grounds & connections. And, the correct gaskets in the distributor.

And, if the tractor has been sitting a long time, you will probably need to dress the points because of corrosion. And, if you don't keep a float charger on the battery, chances are very good that 6v or 12v, you're going to get a weak spark because of low battery voltage.

If you do decide that a 12v conversion is the way to go, plenty of folks on this board have done them and they work well, so you have come to the right place for help!
50 Tips
 
I'm not sure I know what you are asking.
They make 2 types of conversion kits for these tractors.
One is a 6 to 12 Volt conversion which affects your charging and starting systems on the tractor.
The other type of conversion is to convert your ignition points to electronic ignition.
Both types of conversions are subject to endless amounts of arguing, haggling and contention on this board. Some guys want to keep things original and know that 6V and points is what got these tractors here 70 years later. Others here like modern stuff and think modern is better.
For the most part it's a horse apiece which one is adequate and which one is better. Most of the players in the game know that. But we still like to do the haggling just the same.
Whichever system/s you have there is no solution except getting on a good learning curve and finding out what and why you are having electric troubles. If you are willing to do the learning the info is all here. Electrics and electronics have been discussed many times over and there's probably not many new questions - or arguments this board hasn't seen. You would do well to do some searches in the box at the top of the page and read the archives here.
 
A Delco alternator is $35 plus the self exciting regulator and you may need a ballast resistor--less than $10

The Very Best Reason to go 12 volts is so everything you own is 12 volt and your tractor can give and receive a jump
 
" receive a jump "

You can do that w/ 6v.

Check out tip # 43.

I think you will find out that a 12v conversion consists of more than just an alternator. You need a bracket. And a battery. And a belt.

You don't need a ballast resistor. If the tractor is a frontmount it already has one. If you want to keep the 6v coil, you will need an additional resistor. But not a ballast resistor.
50 Tips
 
I was trying to be civil if not conciliatory on my first response to this thread but...
You seem to have missed the best part of BGARRETT's post in that a 12V tractor can GIVE as well as recieve a jump. Think about that lawn tractor, 4 wheeler, snowmobile, wife's car, outboard or son's pos college pickup that you
CAN'T jump with your 6V tractor.
As for brackets, belts, etc that part is really just child's play.
 
I think he was questioning the $160 cost by pointing out that an alternator was only $35.

No, I didn't miss the "give a jump" part. I didn't think it was necessary to comment on the obvious.

Nor did I miss the civil & conciliatory tone. A welcomed change which I trust will continue.
 
I have a 12v starting pak I paid 30 bucks for.It has a light plus 2 lighter outlets.It can start any 6 or 12v tractor, lawn mowers etc.I have used it with an inverter to run my solder gun and irons.This keeps my shop going when the power fails.My 12v sprayer has its own battery.A full charge will spray more material that I can afford to mix at one time.Jumping batteries is risky any way.Making sparks around a battery can explode it.Since most booster cables are junk made with small wire and thick inslation you are better off hooking up the cables and letting the dead battery charge for 10 minutes.
 
I converted our 861 to 12 volts years ago when I got tired of removing the starter to clean the shaft of a very thin film of rust (sits unused a lot) to let the bendix throw in - has worked fine ever since.
It's a little more complicated if you have a front mount distributor, but doable. Both my 8's are still 6V.
 
Scott,, your tractor may need a valve job or some carb work... and there may be nothing "wrong" with your electrical???

I would start with a compression test.

The electrical and ignition systems get checked over.

Don't forget to check the air cleaner, sediment bowl, manifold gaskets, and carb settings.

fan belt,,,,,,,


may need very little, or it may need a lot..... wouldn't be the first time money was spent in the wrong direction on a 12volt conversion, when, quite frankly, it wasn't needed, nor did it cure a starting problem....


I favor the 12volt system for a "worker tractor" for the bright headlites, as I run six headlites on my tractors, and have them wired for trailer lites also.. The 12volt alternators are way faster at recharging the battery. They start better when the engine is spun faster with 12volts applied to the original 6volt starter..

One place I don't care to see a 12volt conversion is on a "restored" trailer queen tractor....


Food for thought BDT
 
Scott.. You"ve got to be careful where you step on this topic. As some of the posters have said there are some very good reasons to do the conversion and good reasons to leave it 6v. And since you said that you mainly use it in the winter when most any vehicle is a little harder to start. Being 12v could be an advantage. It all depends. The one thing that you don"t want to do is try to fix electrical problems by going 12v. Get Bruce"s 50 tips and go over your tractor. Check your wires out real good to ensure they"re brite and tight. Check the fuel system and all of the filters. Then decide.
 
If you maintain a 6v system,or a 12v system for that matter,it will start,if not,it won't.It is just that simple.If you review the archives,you'll see about as many such posts about"I have a 12v system...." as "I have a6v system and...".12v is good if you need it,but doesn't cure a lack of maintenance.Neither does it cure low compression,bad carb,bad points,etc.If it is a case of needing 12v for accessories,you can get a 6 to 12v converter to do so.They used to be readily available for old VWs.---lha
 
[i:654c4848f0]"One place I don't care to see a 12volt conversion is on a "restored" trailer queen tractor"[/i:654c4848f0]

And since I have no use for, nor interest in trailer queens I say convert them all.
Wink
 
(quoted from post at 19:53:42 11/15/10) just wondering if it is worth it to spend the 160 bucks to convert my 6 volt? [b:07266fa01a]I use the tractor for plowing in the winter only.[/b:07266fa01a] I am always having a hard time starting it, and the usually always leads to an electrical problem i.e. no spark, bad points, etc. any thoughts?

If your winters are the....snow crunching under your feet.
inside of your nose freezing when you breathe.
purdy snowflake patterns froze into
all exposed metal surfaces....
then go 12 volt and STILL hope for the best.
(Battery charger...torpedo heater pointed at the tractor....)

points or EI?......your choice and your money, they both work.(12v only for EI)
All of my tractors are 12v, and most have points.
(I'm too cheap to buy EI, but I like the 1 tractor I have that has EI from the PO)

And if all else fails.....wait for a warmer winter day....
Last year when I went to start my 2007 truck(BIG battery)
on a subzero morning, it drew down so much that my radio lost all it's presets. (yes, it started)
Did I try to start any of my tractors that day? haha, no way
 
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