Electric Ford 9N Tractor Conversion, Fluids ?

[TexomaEV]

Hello all, Our students are converting a Ford "9N" Tractor to all Electric Drive, and we've been given a donation of any and all fluids required by the tractor. Problem, how much does the tractor use regarding Hydraulic, Transmission, Differential Fluids? We need these amounts in order to have them ship us the product.

Please visit the photo/video blog of our Electric Tractor Conversion at:

www.flickr.com/photos/mbarkley/sets/72157622014927239/

 

[Bruce (VA)]

See tips 3 & 4 at the link below.

How about posting some pictures?
50 Tips

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 10:34:30 12/13/09) Hello all, Our students are converting a Ford "9N" Tractor to all Electric Drive, and we've been given a donation of any and all fluids required by the tractor. Problem, how much does the tractor use regarding Hydraulic, Transmission, Differential Fluids? We need these amounts in order to have them ship us the product.

Please visit the photo/video blog of our Electric Tractor Conversion at:

www.flickr.com/photos/mbarkley/sets/72157622014927239/

That is a big honkin electric motor..The Tranny all the way back to the diffy is a common sump. Holds 5 gallons of GL1

 

[Bruce (VA)]

"How about posting some pictures? "

That's ok; I got the link to work just fine. My PC settings.....

 

[Sean (TX)]

 

[TexomaEV]

Thanks so much, that is very good information.

 

[TexomaEV]

It's a 48volt typical DC Motor from a CAT Forklift. Lots and Lots of torque.

It would be fun to take the finished E-Tractor to a tractor pull, students want to see how it would perform.

My worry would be how well the transmission would hold up to pulling a SLED.

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 11:31:31 12/13/09)
It's a 48volt typical DC Motor from a CAT Forklift. Lots and Lots of torque.

It would be fun to take the finished E-Tractor to a tractor pull, students want to see how it would perform.

My worry would be how well the transmission would hold up to pulling a SLED.

It will pull a sled no problem. What is the horse power rating of the dc motor?

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 10:33:15 12/13/09)

(quoted from post at 11:31:31 12/13/09)
It's a 48volt typical DC Motor from a CAT Forklift. Lots and Lots of torque.

It would be fun to take the finished E-Tractor to a tractor pull, students want to see how it would perform.

My worry would be how well the transmission would hold up to pulling a SLED.

It will pull a sled no problem. What is the horse power rating of the dc motor?

I'm not sure, rumor is 60hp @ 48vdc, but can't confirm that.

 

[Dunk]

The way that it is bolted appears to me that it would put a heck of a preload on the tranny input shaft bearing, and also probably twist those bolts under much torque.

Blocks, and or, spacers, cross angle brackets, could be built for the bolts to run thru and prevent that though.

 

[Dean]

Barring torque limiting control circuitry, such a DC motor will create torque loads far in excess of design criteria of N drivetrain components.

Dean

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 10:56:06 12/13/09) The way that it is bolted appears to me that it would put a heck of a preload on the tranny input shaft bearing, and also probably twist those bolts under much torque.

Blocks, and or, spacers, cross angle brackets, could be built for the bolts to run thru and prevent that though.

Thanks for the input, the students are planning on installing a bottom crossmember under the motor at it's mounting holes, to keep the motor from twisting under load. It wasn't finished/installed at the time of the current photos. This method has worked well on our EV Pickup conversion from last year's project.

The reason for keeping the space between the motor and transmission, is to allow spectators to see how the two are connected to each other. When we take our projects on tour, this is always a popular question. Therefore leaving the space, they can see for themselves how it's done.

 

[Dean]

The weak(est) link in the N drivetrain is the pinion bearing support.

My worry would be how big of a trailer would be necessary to carry the batteries.

Dean

 

[R Geiger (or)]

looking good! I would remove the Over Run coupler and put a cover on the PTO tho> Keep it safe!

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 11:08:20 12/13/09) The weak(est) link in the N drivetrain is the pinion bearing support.

My worry would be how big of a trailer would be necessary to carry the batteries.

Dean

The battery pack for the E-Tractor will be 6ea Golf Cart batteries mounted in a square frame just above the electric motor, and 2ea Golf Cart batteries, in a rack mounted on the ballast rack in front of the E-Tractor. Making up aprox 500lbs of ballast not counting the weight of the electric motor which is probably 150 to 200 lbs.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You sure are proud of your 50 tips arent you
What are steps 3 and 4 setting the carb and adjusting the points??
It is an experimental ELECTRIC TRACTOR for crissake
you are exactly the type of person Hobo speaks of when he writes
"WARNING all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution"

I bet if you couldn't post your tips a dozen times a day you would have to take laxatives

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 13:09:47 12/13/09) You sure are proud of your 50 tips arent you
What are steps 3 and 4 setting the carb and adjusting the points??
It is an experimental ELECTRIC TRACTOR for crissake
you are exactly the type of person Hobo speaks of when he writes
"WARNING all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution"

I bet if you couldn't post your tips a dozen times a day you would have to take laxatives

Interesting IP Address you are having to hide behind to say that.

174.142.104.57


http://www.google.com/search?source...rlz=1T4ADFA_enUS348US348&q=174.142.104.57

 

[Dan in CO]

Texoma:

What has become of the discarded engine, radiator, gas tank etc.? Maybe your program can recoup some of the cost of materials and parts by selling unneeded parts if they are in serviceable or restorable condition. There may even be a few of the members here who would be willing to make a “donation” in exchange for those parts. Send me an email at: [email protected] I may be interested in a couple of them myself.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Good work, Dunk. I see this site is attracting the professional losers now.

 

[jon]

What are steps 3 and 4 setting the carb and adjusting the points??

#3-The N tractors have a common sump for the rear end, hydraulic pump and transmission. There are three drain plugs under the tractor and one filler cap behind the gear shift. To change the fluid, start by removing the pipe plug under the rear end and move forward to the hydraulic pump and then the transmission. Use only Ford MC-134D hydraulic oil or 90w mineral oil. The modern equivalent of 90w mineral oil is TSC Traveller brand GL-1 or NAPA part number 65-205.

#4- To add just the right amount of hydraulic fluid, remove the bottom bolt from the inspection plate; unless you just cleaned out the sludge in the pump base, it will only take about 4 ¾ gallons (not 5) of hydraulic oil. When the oil leaks out of the bolt hole, it has enough in it. Any more fluid will leak past the seals and onto the brakes. Mark you dipstick accordingly.

Not sure how you arrived at carb & points from these 2 tips but then you do use the name Moron.

I bet if you couldn't post your tips a dozen times a day you would have to take laxatives

Bruce will be the first to tell you they're not totally "his" 50 Tips but a contribution from many current & former board members & he's always courteous enough to post them for all members to see.
The laxative part of your statement has me puzzled as I see no connection to that & tractors of any kind but then we fall back to your chosen username again.....

 

[Dan in CO]

(quoted from post at 12:15:56 12/13/09)

(quoted from post at 13:09:47 12/13/09) You sure are proud of your 50 tips arent you
What are steps 3 and 4 setting the carb and adjusting the points??
It is an experimental ELECTRIC TRACTOR for crissake
you are exactly the type of person Hobo speaks of when he writes
"WARNING all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution"

I bet if you couldn't post your tips a dozen times a day you would have to take laxatives

Interesting IP Address you are having to hide behind to say that.

174.142.104.57


http://www.google.com/search?source...rlz=1T4ADFA_enUS348US348&q=174.142.104.57

Ah yes, the scum of the internet.

Fortunately Bruce has the class to ignore this obviously uninformed rude and cowardly type of attack. His posts are always welcomed and well received. Bruce please know how well respected you are!

 

[Anonymous-0]

lol
did you notice he didn't say i was wrong
he just didnt like id did it in secret

 

[Dan]

Are you the group that posted in the North Texas e-News looking for a 9N tractor for a school project? I was wondering how that was going. I have 42 acres near Bonham called 8N Acres so I try to keep up with any Ford tractor activity around me.

Good luck w/ the project.

Dan
8N Acres Website

 

[Ed S.]

Interesting project. You probably already know this, but an electric motor provides 100% of it's torque from zero RPM on up, unlike an i/c engine, which builds torque gradually (this is called torque rise).

In your case, this could lead to an unexpected material failure, or even a possible flipover ('wheelie') situation if you're not super careful - the temptation will be strong to "goose it" due to the much greater power available.

We have several [i:1442606240]snapped[/i:1442606240] driveshafts at work that came out of a prototype electric drive earthmoving machine - they worked just fine for the 250hp direct-drive diesel powered model... you can imagine how much the production ones had to be beefed up.

Just remember your N tractor drivetrain was designed for a 25hp gasoline engine (obviously with a safety margin, as folks have done successful I6 and V8 conversions with 'em). You do the math...

Keep posting updates (and pics)!

es

 

[Anonymous-0]

Rofl Amen bro. Thats funny.

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 14:20:21 12/13/09) Are you the group that posted in the North Texas e-News looking for a 9N tractor for a school project? I was wondering how that was going. I have 42 acres near Bonham called 8N Acres so I try to keep up with any Ford tractor activity around me.

Good luck w/ the project.

Dan
8N Acres Website

Yes, that would be us. Small world isn't it.....

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 14:44:14 12/13/09) Interesting project. You probably already know this, but an electric motor provides 100% of it's torque from zero RPM on up, unlike an i/c engine, which builds torque gradually (this is called torque rise).

In your case, this could lead to an unexpected material failure, or even a possible flipover ('wheelie') situation if you're not super careful - the temptation will be strong to "goose it" due to the much greater power available.

We have several [i:92571258a2]snapped[/i:92571258a2] driveshafts at work that came out of a prototype electric drive earthmoving machine - they worked just fine for the 250hp direct-drive diesel powered model... you can imagine how much the production ones had to be beefed up.

Just remember your N tractor drivetrain was designed for a 25hp gasoline engine (obviously with a safety margin, as folks have done successful I6 and V8 conversions with 'em). You do the math...

Keep posting updates (and pics)!

es

Yes, I've already twisted off a CV joint in my first Electric Car Conversion in the early days. Instant torque is fun, sometimes.

I hope the 500+ ballast (battery pack) on the front of the tractor helps soften the chance of "Wheelies", and keeping it at 48vdc should also help with overall speed. The last thing I want is to see someone running down the highway at 55+mph with it. Currently we calculate 25mph will be close to it's top end with a 48volt battery pack.

 

[Ed S.]

Currently we calculate 25mph will be close to it's top end with a 48volt battery pack.

You might want to borrow an 8N with a Sherman Step-up transmission and try driving it in 4th-high range, which will be around 25 mph.

"Ludicrous Speed" will be the first thing that comes to mind.

:lol:

e (wear a helmet!) s

 

[John (TR)]

25 mph will probably exceed the speed at which you will be able to safely control the tractor by about 10mph.
Interesting project though

 

[Sean (TX)]

You may want to put a seat on it that has a back rest. I guess this tractor will have no clutch?

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 18:16:35 12/13/09) 25 mph will probably exceed the speed at which you will be able to safely control the tractor by about 10mph.
Interesting project though

I wasn't sure what the typical speed max was, and sure wanted to keep it as slow as possible for safety.

We may just have to install a programmable EV Controller, to try and limit the speed even more, as I really don't want to go lower on the voltage.

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 18:33:29 12/13/09) You may want to put a seat on it that has a back rest. I guess this tractor will have no clutch?

I did keep the seat from the Forklift, it has a back and armrests, along with seatbelt.

We're also installing the rollcage from the forklift, after expanding it in size, for safety, and to mount the solar panels onto it as sort of a canopy.

Serving 3 purposes, Charger, Sun Canopy, & Safety Roll Cage.

The e-tractor will not have a clutch, but there will be a switch activated by the clutch pedal, to stop the electric motor if ever needed. Thought this would be good, if it's second nature to someone to hit the clutch in case of an emergency.

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 13:09:47 12/13/09) "WARNING all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution"

Hobo's tag line, I think, [b:8e5dcaf2be]is aimed at me.[/b:8e5dcaf2be]

That is [b:8e5dcaf2be]fine[/b:8e5dcaf2be], cause he is a [b:8e5dcaf2be]buddy[/b:8e5dcaf2be] of mine.

And he doesn't have to hide to do that.

And most everything that I have learned is by having, most every part of '49 8N *236763* apart, and back together, a lot of them more than once, over 25+ years, with the exception of the tranny, and pinion.

We kind of pick at each other.....

 

[LeoinMI]

Bruce,..I for one appreciate your information as well as the rest of the posts who are nice enough to take time to answer questions we "inexperienced" and not so knowledgable backyard mechanics ask of you. Your fifty facts help alot.

 

[TexomaEV]

(quoted from post at 21:51:30 12/13/09) Bruce,..I for one appreciate your information as well as the rest of the posts who are nice enough to take time to answer questions we "inexperienced" and not so knowledgable backyard mechanics ask of you. Your fifty facts help alot.

I'm certainly grateful, I know more about this little tractor than I thought I ever would, and can get that fluid on order.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Your welcome. Glad to help.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

You're welcome. Glad to help.

That is an awesome project. What you are teaching those kids will stay with them a lifetime. I took wood shop nearly 50 years ago in the 8th & 9th grades & still enjoy it.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Tnx Dan! Kind of you to say so.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Tnx Jon. That's right; I'm just sharing what others here shared w/ me. I picked up a lot of the 50 on my own, usually the hard way, but many of them came from past & current regulars here.

 

[Ken(Ark)]

(quoted from post at 20:38:20 12/13/09) Tnx Jon. That's right; I'm just sharing what others here shared w/ me. I picked up a lot of the 50 on my own, usually the hard way, but many of them came from past & current regulars here.

I was going to give you a friendly barb and ask why you didn't ask if it was 6v,12v,front,side,year but after reading the posts I can see that some people take this free help site way to seriously . There's plenty of other places to go on the big web if a feller wants to stir the pot .

Have a good day - Ken(Ark)

 

[wickedsix]

That is a pretty cool project, would love to see the end result!