electronic ignition and coil question

[bisonfarmer]

I have a 960 and would like to put in electronic ignition. Would anyone know if I need to change the coil?

 

[bisonfarmer]

I forgot to mention that this tractor is still the 6 volt system.

 

[mooboy]

If you convert your tractor to a 12 volt system negative ground, you can use Pertronix kit number 1244A. Not a hard conversion to 12 volts if you use an internally regulated alternator like the Delco 10SI. The 1244A kit can usually be had for less than $100 and requires a true 12 volt coil (the kind requiring no ballast resistor). You can get one from Pertronix or your local parts store.

If you want to keep the original 6 volt system I think Pertronix can provide a kit with added cost. Try contacting Pertronix directly at WWW.pertronix.com

I have done 12 volt conversions before and highly recommend it if the original look is not one of your requirements. I can also recommend the Pertronix kits. They work great. I have a Pertronix kit one on one of my tractors now and it was money well spent.

 

[bisonfarmer]

Thanks for the feedback. For a learning question, why would a 12 volt system conversion be better?

 

[JMOR]

"and requires a true 12 volt coil (the kind requiring no ballast resistor). " Not a fact! Suggest reading installation instructions where Pertronix says to add resistance to coil primary value as necessary to achieve a total of 3 Ohms.

 

[mooboy]

With 12 volts your starter will turn faster in cold weather for easier starting. Sometimes 6V generators can be a little troublesome and don't charge the battery at engine idle conditions. But you don't retain the original look if you swap to a 12V alternator. But battery charging will be better with an alternator and 12V batteries are more plentiful than 6 volt batteries.

As JMOR stated, you could retain your 6 volt coil if you add a ballast resistor to the wire going to the primary side of the 6V coil to obtain 3 ohms. It requires finding a place to mount the ballast resistor. The cost of the ballast resistor can be 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a new coil.

 

[mooboy]

With 12 volts your starter will turn faster in cold weather for easier starting. Sometimes 6V generators can be a little troublesome and don't charge the battery at engine idle conditions. But you don't retain the original look if you swap to a 12V alternator. But battery charging will be better with an alternator and 12V batteries are more plentiful than 6 volt batteries.

As JMOR stated, you could retain your 6 volt coil if you add a ballast resistor to the wire going to the primary side of the 6V coil to obtain 3 ohms. It requires finding a place to mount the ballast resistor. The cost of the ballast resistor can be 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a new coil.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I think that I will try to keep the current 6 volt system as I use this tractor in mostly warmer weather and I will check what petronix has. I appreciate the feedback from everyone.

 

[Tom Bond]

I changed my 4000 4 cylinder over to 12 volt. Almost identical to your 960. Also upgraded to the electronic ignition and new coil. You can change over all 3 items for well under $300. Honestly, it's like having a new tractor. Hits EVERY time on 1st. or 2nd. crank. With the electronic ignition, runs a lot smother as well. Supposed to increase fuel efficiency as well but I can't vouch for that as I use mine only for moving a little snow now and then. I'll put it to the test this spring when preparing food plots. I've never looked back after going 12 volt w/electronic. I did however save the old genny, regulator, points and condenser just in case there's ever a need or I sell it to someone who would want to change it back.

 

[souNdguy]

IMHO... if you are going ei. go the whole mile and go 12v and then ei...

 

[Michaels Dad]

What exactly is needed to convert, and a good source.
I presently have a 12v system with a good coil, no resistor.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I'ts pretty easy to do.
Remove the points and condenser and install the base plate for the EI module in the same screw holes. There are two wires. Red one goes to the hot side of the coil. Black one to the other side of the coil. I used a dab of silicone where the wires go through the distributer housing to keep them from chafing.
Instructions will say something about adjusting the air gap between the module and the magnet which sits on top of the dist shaft but on a 3 cyl I didn't even have to do that.
That's really about all there is to it.
On a 3 cyl engine I could not use the dust cover under the dist cap.
Some folks say they are not worth the money but I thought it was. My tractor started instantly and it got rid of a nagging low idle miss.
I used it for 7 1/2 years untill I sold the tractor. In that time I never had to remove the distributer cap.
They sell them on this site.
Click Here

 

[Michaels Dad]

Thanks, just ordered it.
OK on the existing coil?

Don't know why I've waited so long to do this. Had ignition module go out in an old 18hp Sears riding mower, replaced it with a solid state, acted like it added a couple of more HP.

 

[Ultradog MN]

If you are running a coil that does not need the ballast resister then you are good to go.
If you have a coil that needs the resistor then you just add another wire from the switch (or in front the the resister) and give the module full voltage.
EZ

 

[mooboy]

Your tractor may have a resistor wire instead of a ballast resistor. With tractor running (before EI conversion), if you measure 8 to 9 volts at the positive terminal of the coil you either have a resistor wire or ballast resistor somewhere. Also, if the coil you have has a primary resistance of about 1.3 ohms across the coil screw posts, this is another good indicator your coil is the type requiring a ballast resistor or resistor wire. You need a coil with about 3 ohms primary resistance and full 12 volts at the positive coil post when tractor is running. On my 3600 Ford it was easiest to buy a new coil and run a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil. I did not remove the old coil wire, just left it disconnected and abandoned in place.

 

[bisonfarmer]

When you made your conversion did you have to make any modifications for everything to fit?

 

[mooboy]

(quoted from post at 18:59:35 02/10/14) When you made your conversion did you have to make any modifications for everything to fit?

I removed the old generator and bracket. I field fabricated an L shaped bracket to hold the base of a Ford 1G externally regulated alternator mounted to the engine block. The original generator top slotted bracket was reused. The wiring had to be changed also to accommodate the external voltage regulator. The Ford 1G was probably not the easiest conversion to do but it was used in my case because the alternator was already on the farm on a junk Ford van we had laying around.

I think the internally regulated Delco 10SI one wire alternator would be easier to install, and there are universal mounting brackets for sale. You can get the one wire alternator and universal bracket in kit form. Install existing battery charge wire to the output post on the one wire alternator and you are done.

BTW, the 12 volt conversion I did was on a Ford 601 Workmaster tractor, similar but smaller tractor than yours.

 

[bisonfarmer]

Thanks for the feedback. After reading everyone's comments and doing some other research I still think that with the small amount of use with this tractor putting in electronic ignition with the 6 volt system would be the simplest and still produce good results. If I lived on the farm where this tractor is and used it several times a week I would most likely put in the 12 volt system. If I use this tractor 3 times a month during late spring thru the summer I am doing good.

 

[MNGB]

(quoted from post at 20:37:13 02/10/14) Thanks for the feedback. After reading everyone's comments and doing some other research I still think that with the small amount of use with this tractor putting in electronic ignition with the 6 volt system would be the simplest and still produce good results. If I lived on the farm where this tractor is and used it several times a week I would most likely put in the 12 volt system. If I use this tractor 3 times a month during late spring thru the summer I am doing good.

If that's all you use the tractor why spend over a $100.00 to convert that money would buy points & condensers for ever+ a new battery when needed?
GB in MN

 

[Michaels Dad]

(quoted from post at 19:31:26 02/10/14) If you are running a coil that does not need the ballast resister then you are good to go.
If you have a coil that needs the resistor then you just add another wire from the switch (or in front the the resister) and give the module full voltage.
EZ

No ballast resister, using coil that needs no external.

 

[bisonfarmer]

Good point (excuse the pun). I just thought that electronic ignition would outlast the need of changing points more than once and help the tractor run better.

 

[MNGB]

(quoted from post at 06:55:54 02/11/14) Good point (excuse the pun). I just thought that electronic ignition would outlast the need of changing points more than once and help the tractor run better.

You do know that the Pertonix ignition system is not a true electronic system in the sense that auto's use, it's not a CDI but rather a points eliminator system and one of the draw backs to the 6 volt positive ground system is if someone was to jump start the engine and accidentally connect the battery as a negative ground setup chances or the Pertonic module will be fried instantly.

 

[Ultradog MN]

You will see folks here spend all kinds of dough on lights, fancy paint, gew gaws and doo dads for their tractor and no one bats an eye on the cost.
But if a man suggests he's going to install EI in his tractor then everyone starts to gripe about the price.
I never understood why.
As I said in my post below, I think the cost of EI was money well spent.
And I'm a cheap sob.

 

[bisonfarmer]

I will definitely remember this. Thanks.