eliminate electrical problem

[Anonymous-0]

I put a new plunger and spring in the front of the tractor. I had to take the coil off to get the plug out. after putting back together it would not run right. It seemed to have a cold cylinder. so I repaced that spark plug and it seem to be only running on that cylinder. so I took off the whole distributor. everyting seem to be running right in the dist. Does the dist have a cyntrifical advace??? when I can get it started is acts like I have a carb problem. when I choke it, it seem to want to run on all cylinders but the choke may just slow the engine down enough that the enging catches up with the spark if the advace is not working correctly???? HELP!!!!

 

[Tom N MS]

Sounds like it was running O.K. until you removed the coil. If that is true, then check the simple stuff first. Remove the cork gasket under the coil. Fold a piece of paper to put inder the coil bail so it will hold the coil down tight with the gasket removed. Now see if it runs right. If it does then you know your problem is that the spring pigtail and/or the flat contact on the coil is not contacting good(with the gasket in place)...If it runs without the gasket, remove the coil and carefully stretch the pigtail and bend the flat tab on the coil so that they will make better contact with the gasket reinstalled..

 

[Eric R]

I made sure all of that stuff was touching when I put the whole dist together on the bench and installed it whole onto the tractor. I put new plugs in it but maybe I fouled them out when I had an electrical problem and now I have a spark plug problem. My next step maybe to clean the carb

 

[Tom N MS]

What does the spark look like when you take an old (but good) plug and spread the gap to about 3/16"..attach it to a wire and ground it to a clean paint free spot on the head..TRACTOR IN NEUTRAL..turn the engine over with the starter..Strong blue spark should jump the 3/16 gap..I'd bet your problem is spark and not gas..

 

[Eric R]

I will try this

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Remember, 75% of all carb problems are found in the ignition.

Try Tom's suggestions; if they don't work, get out your meter or test light & pull the distributor off for a continuity check.

Assuming that the points, condenser, bushings & advance weights are ok, the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the frontmount are:

1 The insulator under the concave head screw.

2 The insulator at the end of the points where the copper strip attaches.

3 The copper strip grounded to the plate.

4 The condenser wire grounding.

5 The pigtail/tab not making contact.

6 Incorrect positioning of the spring clip on the plate causing the pigtail to ground.

7 Incorrect seating of the coil on the distributor.

First, make sure your meter/light works (don't ask....)

Now, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit (it’s easier to do this from the left side). The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.
50 Tips

 

[Anonymous-0]

Sounds like the fuel needle valve in the carb is stuck open floodin ur motor.

 

[Eric R]

I have electronic ignition. what will the engine run like if the weights in the distributor do not open up?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 08:47:40 08/08/09) I have electronic ignition. what will the engine run like if the weights in the distributor do not open up?

won't mis-fire, nor will there be any "catching up' as you put it. It should run on all cylinders but be somewhat short on power & when you rev the engine, a bit slow on acceleration. Your description of your problem, suggest looking somewhere besides distributor centrifugal advance. Did you get all the plug wire back as they belong?

 

[Eric R]

I tried pulling the spring on the bottom of the coil out but that is not easy. I may get the vice grips out and go to town. I assume that a coil is good or bad and no in between? also what would happen if the rotor was turned 180 degrees?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

It won't have any power. It could also run rough & backfire.

Pull the distributor & check it out. And, set the timing while it's off the tractor.

 

[Eric R]

I can get my tractor to purr like a kitten at idel. but as soon as I reach 1/3 or 1/2 throtle I starts to miss and if I put up to 3/4 throtle I can get it to back fire really really loud. When I take it apart what do I look for how do I set the timing? Please help me this type of issue is all new to me.

 

[Eric R]

also have you ever heard of a coil only being half bad and causeing the same results. I am just trying to rule things out

 

[Eric R]

I have electronic ignition