engine oil

[Anonymous-0]

any suggestion on wt for engine oil 8n

 

[2ruNgineer]

for my 2N in Nebraska, i do 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer.

 

[old]

A lot depends on where you are and if your going to park it for the winter or use it say 2 plus times a week. Some say a 10W-30 or a 20W-40 but again if your up north the 10W-30 might be better. Me I use a 30W oil in all but one of my tractors all year round but I am in Missouri so temps are not all that bad most of the time

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Pick the weight of the oil by the condition of the engine (oil pressure) & the outside temperature. Many folks use 30w detergent all year. A straight weight oil is probably ok in a hot climate, but you will get excessive engine wear on startup in cold climates. (That’s one reason multi-vis oil was invented) A worn engine is going to need a heavier weight oil to maintain oil pressure at operating speed & temp. Many use 10w30, 15w40 or even 20w50. Some like the newer diesel rated oil because of the additives for the flat tappets & highly recommend Shell Rotella T 15-40 (I'm not convinced that my 2400 rpm N engine needs the same oil as my 65 Mustang did) Anyway, IMHO, use a multi-vis detergent oil. Increase the weight if the engine has low oil pressure. And, BTW, switching to detergent oil is not going to loosen up the sludge in the engine. While choosing oil brands & weights are sometimes subjective, the use of detergent vs non-detergent shouldn’t be debatable given the oil available today. Plenty of studies disprove the “stir up the sludge” myths; here is one:

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Detergent%20Oil

Change the oil when the engine is hot. If you have the OEM fittings, you will need a 1-1/16” open end wrench for the drain plug & a 7/8” box end wrench for the oil filter canister bolt. If your canister has a drain plug, you will need a 7/16” box end wrench for that. If it doesn’t, suction it out or wick it out w/ rags. (8N’s after s/n 269,530 don’t have a drain on the canister) Make sure your waste oil pan holds 6 quarts. Look at the size of that drain plug; the first 5 quarts of oil will come out, along w/ the plug, in about 2 seconds, so get the pan as close as possible to the bottom of the pan. Or, get out the Kitty Litter because you will have oil splashed all over the place. Have a new oil plug gasket on hand or be prepared to make one. Clean the pan squeaky clean of all previous gasket sealer & the old gasket. Do not use Permatex or any other sealer except Never-Sieze on the new gasket. Make sure your drain plug has the screen on it. If not, get a new plug . Clean the screen. I use NAPA 1010 oil filters. Do not forget to use a quarter size gasket under the bolt holding the top of the oil filter canister. nnalert’s & CNH have them: p/n 01A6749. I have successfully used plastic & copper washers as well as homemade gaskets. Do not forget to use the 7/8” wrench to snugly tighten the bolt on the top of the canister. (Don't ask!). Most oil filters come w/ the large ring gasket; wet it w/ oil first. Save the old gasket until you check the canister for leaks. The new gaskets are sometimes thinner than the older ones & are prone to leakage. If yours leaks, re-install the old gasket. Put the new gasket into the groove in the filter cover. Make certain that there is not another one already in the groove. If the new gasket will not stay in position stick it in place with a little grease or gasket sealer. Make certain that the filter cover is properly positioned on the canister before tightening the top nut. Clean the oil breather, add 6 quarts of oil & save a little for the cup in the air filter. (and check the filter mesh in the breather; if it's dirty, you will need to clean or replace it. Same w/ the oil breather. Remove the wing nut to clean it out)
50 Tips

 

[L B]

I use straight 30w non-detergent, yes I know non-detergent. 2 reasons every crankcase I have got into had lots of tar (sludge) in the pan. I know of 2 motors that the detergent oil broke loose the sludge, well you know, bad things happen. I have a working, bush hog, blade, plow ect 43 War Wagon since since 77 with a armstrong starter that has nothing but 30w ND oil. 2 working 8Ns same 30w ND. They all run great and use very little oil between oil changes, Spring and Fall. I also use LEAD substitue in the fuel, some say Lead Sub is not needed??? If you overhaul the motor I would use 10w-40w Detergent. Happy Tractoring

 

[old]

I have been messing with these old tractor now for 30 plus years and ALWAYS use detergent oil in them no matter what had been used and NEVER had any problems caused by sludge braking free and messing things up but instead it has cleaned up things and did very very well. As for the lead stuff it is snake oil and doesn't even have any lead in it all it is is a simple oil and ATF does as good if not better

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" I know of 2 motors that the detergent oil broke loose the sludge,"

Just like "never set a battery on concrete", that's a myth. I've attached the link to the quote below.



" The Detergent Oil Myth -- The next myth to appear is that modern detergent engine oils are bad for older engines. This one got started after World War II, when the government no longer needed all of the available detergent oil for the war effort, and detergent oil hit the market as “heavy-duty” oil.

Many pre-war cars had been driven way past their normal life, their engines were full of sludge and deposits, and the piston rings were completely worn out. Massive piston deposits were the only thing standing between merely high oil consumption and horrendous oil consumption. After a thorough purge by the new detergent oil, increased oil consumption was a possible consequence.
If detergent oils had been available to the public during the war, preventing the massive deposit buildup from occurring in the first place, this myth never would have started. Amazingly, there are still a few people today, 60 years later, who believe that they need to use non-detergent oil in their older cars. Apparently, it takes many years for an oil myth to die. "
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb showflat&Number 1049812

 

[36 Coupe]

Draining hot oil can burn.Ive drained a lot of hot oil when I had the proper equipment,that being a lift and a drain can with a big catch funnel on top that could be brought up close to the oil pan.The funnel had a coarse screen that would catch the plug if you dropped it.Safety glasses and rubber gloves were a must.The big Ford drain plugs were bad to burn you with splashed hot oil.

 

[souNdguy]

i used to use winter and summer grade S rated oils.. but pretty much now use 15w40 C rated oil. decent in cold weather at startup.. good in warm weather, even on a warm engine..

bruce gave a good write up.
much depends on overall oil pressure, engine and climate.

soundguy

 

[36 Coupe]

Read the label on your lead substitute,it will say petroleum distilates.That is French for diesel fuel.

 

[L B]

Sorry odd I did not want to upset ya just giving my opinion.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

I can't speak for others, but I'm not upset. We have different opinions. I remember very well putting batteries on boards until I was told how the rumor started (based on fact; old batteries had glass containers & wooden cases) & why what was once true no longer had any validity.

Same goes oil & fuel additives. Most don't work at all & some are actually harmful.

Check it out. Lots of learning can be accomplished by Google searches!

 

[L B]

Ok but its just my experiance.If you put a fully charged battery on cement and a fully charged battery in a vehicle let them sit (dont run the veh.) for 3 weeks you will only be able to start the vehicle with the one thats in your vehicle. True and not a myth.

 

[Anonymous-0]

In reference to the battery myth, storing wet cell batteries on concrete causes them to drain the charge. If my memory serves me right it is the electrolyte (battery acid) on the battery's outer case that causes a short between posts that slowly drains the battery's charge. Clean the outer case carefully to eliminate this problem and you can store it where you like.

 

[old]

You did not up set me I was just stating the facts as I see them and have BTDT for decades with no problems doing it the way I do and I mess with lots of old stuff and have seen the insides of engines that had run non-detergent oil and talk about a mess at times. Had one engine I rebuilt that had run Quaker State from day one and it had a 1/4 inch or more of wax build up on every thing. Quaker State was/is a wax based oil by the way

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Check this out
Battery on Concrete

 

[JerryC2011]

"Pensilvania Grade Crude". Remember the ads for Quacker State and Penzoil? I was told by my farm supply oil product manager when I was in the farm supply distribution business that the wax was parifin, and it has been distiled out of the oil for many years.

The lubication is in the additives and the oil acts as a carrier. The additives break down in heat and friction.

Since I am not a chemical engineer, I just took his word for it.

 

[old]

Yep paraffin as in a type of wax and from what I was always told it is still in the oil not distilled out of it so the build up you get is a wax and yes the build up junk from Quaker state oil is in fact a wax and even feels like a wax when you clean it up. Seen engines where the only thing keeping them from throwing a rod it the fact they where always run at low RPM and the wax filling wore out rod bearing etc

 

[Bruce (VA)]

The battery being on concrete had nothing to do w/ it not working. No need to take my word for it....click on the link. If that doesn't work, just Google "battery concrete myth".

Lots of science out there disproves what you think caused the battery to drain.
Battery on Concrete

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Google "oil paraffin myth". This is one article you will find. The link below has another.

Myth #1 - Paraffinic oils cause engine sludge.

Oils from paraffin-based crude are loaded with wax and create engine sludge. Paraffin base stocks cause sludge. "x" Brand of motor oil causes sludge, varnish and/or engine deposits. �Paraffinic� motor oils cause wax-like deposits on the underside of the oil fill cap.


Fact: There are two basic types of crude oil, naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and resistance to oxidation (sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses paraffinic base stocks in blending its engine oil products. Many people believe the term paraffinic to be synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film that can result in engine deposits. This is not true. The confusion exists because paraffinic molecules can form wax crystals at low temperatures. In lubricating oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called dewaxing. Wax is a premium product obtained from crude oil, and in order to ensure that we produce the highest quality base stocks available, Havoline removes the maximum amount of wax possible during the refining process. The end result is a motor oil product formulated with premium lubricating base oil.
Oils from paraffin based crude are loaded with wax and create engine sludge.

 

[old]

Ah but you hit the magic word today as in the new stuff when I dealt with the problem of the build up and the person had used only the one brand of oil that was 20 plus years ago and things have changed over time. So yes what we have now may not do what I saw back then but I did see a 1/4 inch or more build up in that engine and others at the time

 

[36 Coupe]

If you leave a battery on concrete or your welding bench outdoors rain can flood the battery.Acid overflow will eat the concrete and rust the bench top.Learned this in the 50s the hard way.