Engine rotates very hard after overhaul.

Steve255

New User
Got my new pistons in, once I torqued down my rod bearing caps, it takes an enormous effort to turn the engine. Is this normal? It does not seem right. I torqued the caps to 45-50 ft lbs. Thanks.
 
I replaced standards with standards, the bearings that came out were not worn at all, I did not mic the crank.
 
Also, I made sure to put the caps with the correct rods, in the same cylinder, and the oil journal toward the cam.
 
Did you use machine shop?
Measure cylinders?
Sleeves?
Turn crank?
Measure ring gap?
What kind of engine?
Why were you working on it?
Help us out some.
 
Did you use a good bit of lube on all parts?? If you did not that is your problem. I have run into that more then once but have always been ok but I do use a lot of lube on things and so far never had a problem from a tight engine. Plastic gauge is the best way to be 100% sure
 
Did you make sure the main bearing caps are in the right position? I had the same problem and discovered I had mixed the caps.
 
did the crank turn fine by hand after just the main bearings were tightened? if it did it is likely a rod, are all the rod caps installed with stamped numbers on same side of rod top and bottom? or if no numbers, with bearing tangs together? did it just progressively get tighter as each rod/piston was installed? or was it just when a certain one was installed? use lots of oil on the piston bore during assembly, those new rings can be a lot of drag. basically, new 4 cylinder with all pistons in and two bolts stuck in flywheel holes should turn using a one foot long bar stuck between the bolts and two fingers pushing on bar, or a rachet on the front of the crank the same length, more than that and something is too tight, start working backward one rod at a time till you find the tight spot
 
Rod, I just finished an engine rebuild on my 641 134cid. You find many strange things that were done by previous owners. My main bearings were worn but not worn out and were .010 oversized. I replaced them with .010 oversized. Could hardly turn the crank with new bearings installed. Turns out that previous rebuilder bored out bearings rather than polishing crank. Mic. all your journals to make sure they are in specs.
 
I'd check the crank for both wear and roundness. I've had them 2-3/1000ths out of round and the bearings looked ok. With new bearings though, they seize.
 
You said you put the correct rod caps with the correct rods but,do you have the caps installed in the same direction as they were before?Your caps should be numberd and both numbers should be on the same side when installed.A lot of things should be taken into consideration during an engine rebuild.The crank should always be miked for one.And if you install new pistons the pin bushings in the rods should be checked and replaced as needed.Everything should always be match marked as the engine is dissasembled also.And i assume you are only working on rod bearings and not servicing the mains on the crankshaft? Did you pull a main cap and inspect the bearing? Did this engine have a good oil pressure reading when at operating temp?And finally did you check your ring gap with a feeler guage before installing the pistons back into their bores?See what i'm getting at,don't assume things,check it out and then you will know.Thats the difference between quality work and patching something together and hoping it works.It will not cost anymore in the long run.
 
I had the same problem. Turned out to be the rope packing on the rear seal. I didn't have the tool to seat them properly. Get rid of them and install the two piece rubber lip seal unless your sealing surface on the crank is pitted. Be sure and install with the lips to the front of the engine. Good luck.
 
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