Engine Stand/Engine Hoist; 9N front wheels

Hi, All,

- I will be doing an engine rebuild on my 9N
- Recommendations for stand purchase/hoist rental? Kinda tempted to buy the hoist as it might help with other things, like wheels/wheelweights/loader arms. The craftsman one at sears is only rated to 750#. Maybe not enough?

- Also, folks commented that the front wheels on my 9N were incorrect - and I agree, as my tractor is lower in the front than the back. Can someone point me to the 'correct' front wheels for the '39-'40 9N?

thanks
 
Check around for used engine stands & hoist. Get a 4 point engine stand [not a 3 point], used $35, the top of a 55gal barrel acctually works better. A good used hoist will be under $100.
 
I got the 750 lb, 4 point engine stand from Harbor Freight for about $60. It holds the engine, but I wouldn't say there is much extra capacity (it's hard to rotate the engine, and there is some sag when fully assembled, but it does seem stable). I got a 2 ton foldable hoist, and it had no problem, as expected, it was about $175. If you can find used, or rent them, that would probably be a better/cheaper alternative.
 
(quoted from post at 16:33:12 03/21/11) Hi, All,

- I will be doing an engine rebuild on my 9N
- Recommendations for stand purchase/hoist rental? Kinda tempted to buy the hoist as it might help with other things, like wheels/wheelweights/loader arms. The craftsman one at sears is only rated to 750#. Maybe not enough?

- Also, folks commented that the front wheels on my 9N were incorrect - and I agree, as my tractor is lower in the front than the back. Can someone point me to the 'correct' front wheels for the '39-'40 9N?

thanks

Engine stands and engine hoists serve two different purposes.

A hoist is used to lift the engine when installing or removing it from the vehicle.

The stand is used to hold the engine after it is out while you work on it. It has provision for rotating the motor so you can work from teh top, bottom, or sides.

An inexpensive 750# engine stand is more than satisfactory for the N-series motor. The biggest problem is the mounting arms on many do not adjust to line up with the bell housing bolt holes on the block.

TOH

PS> I knew a Willliam Fissell many years ago - ever live in Wheaton MD?
 
Buy the hoist! You will NOT regret it. The older you get the more uses you will find for it. You might as well buy the engine stand as the rent will be more than buying. Murphy's law ,, the rebuild will always take longer than you expect. Lots of luck! joe
 

I did not know a engine stand existed till around 1977,,, Worked their about 9 mo,,,,after I left that shop I did not buy a engine stand till around 2000,,, I built engines on a table and thought that's the way everyone did it....
 
How many engines are you planning to do a year?
If more than half a dozen then buy an engine stand. If you are like most of us and do one once in a blue moon save your money and put it into parts. A good solid table works just fine.

100_02311.jpg
 
I do have a worktable 4" thick maple butcher block on 4x4 mortise and tenon frame...

It's really truly not scary to be flipping the engine over to get at the crankshaft on a table? eek... "me worry about thud ouch".

I will take the advice and get the hoist.

Nope, never lived in MD, nor my dad, but lots of other william fissells did, I think- I once found a picture on the internet of a store in MD on US 40 "William H Fissell" over the door.
 
The correct front wheels for a 9n are 19x4".I've pulled motors from trucks and cars with an a-frame hoist made from timbers and a 2x8 across the middle using a block and tackle,then later,a chain hoist.Then I'd lower the motor onto a table,like a picnic table,braced off so as not to fall down,and work away.---lha,the hillbilly mechanic!!!
 
Just remember that the real purpose of an engine hoist is to test the tensile strength of the line or electrical connection that you forgot to disconnect!
 
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