Exhaust Stud Removal

[Bruce (VA)]

Tractor is a 1950 8N 6v sidemount. The threads on the #2 exhaust stud were smoothed out no doubt because of the cross-threaded steel nut the previous owner put on it. I was hoping that cleaning up the threads w/ a die would work; it didn't. The new brass nut starts to tighten, then spins because of the worn threads. I tried the "double nut" trick to remove the stud; so far, all it does when I start backing off the nut closest to the block is "push" the top nut off the stud. It's almost like there are no threads there at all. Before I screw this up worse than it is (as in breaking the stud) I'm looking for suggestions. I'd like to do it right & get the stud out.

I don't have any welding gear, but I do have a propane torch. If heat on the stud will help, I can pull the tractor out of the garage & heat up the stud.
50 Tips

 

[Jim Spencer]

Can you use the next size smaller die to rethread the stud. If it is now 3/8-16 you should to be able to use a 5/16-18 die over the stud and you may not even need to remove the stud but just use the 5/16 brass nut.
Jim

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 16:49:40 01/22/08) Tractor is a 1950 8N 6v sidemount. The threads on the #2 exhaust stud were smoothed out no doubt because of the cross-threaded steel nut the previous owner put on it. I was hoping that cleaning up the threads w/ a die would work; it didn't. The new brass nut starts to tighten, then spins because of the worn threads. I tried the "double nut" trick to remove the stud; so far, all it does when I start backing off the nut closest to the block is "push" the top nut off the stud. It's almost like there are no threads there at all. Before I screw this up worse than it is (as in breaking the stud) I'm looking for suggestions. I'd like to do it right & get the stud out.

I don't have any welding gear, but I do have a propane torch. If heat on the stud will help, I can pull the tractor out of the garage & heat up the stud.
50 Tips
Well, heat is more often than not the correct answer. However, since the large mass of the block is conducting it away very well, propane/air probably isn't going to get things hot enough. I generally use oxy/acetylene or hit them with the TIG. Very important to leave it alone while hot & soft, then after it self cools 5-10 minutes, try turning it. It is the expansion/contraction that really breaks the bond.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Bruce........ya was on the right track, re-threading. 'cept the OEM studs is 7/16-20. Try 3/8-16 (coarse) is stronger (more meat to the thread) than 3/8-24 (fine) and then double-nut. Yeah, little heat probably would help break the "seal", but ya still gonnna haff friction that'll need the grip of double-nuts.

Of course replace yer stud with a dual thread, 7/16-20 x 7/16-14 by 1-5/8 long stud. p/n: 88403-S (me? I'd use whatever length the binbox had, 1-3/4 or even 2" long) Little water seal on the coarse block end of the stud. And NEW BRASS NUTS (7/16-20) torqued 27ft/lbs........Dell

 

[Gaspump]

Hey Bruce, please don't forget that the gas tank is in very close proximity to the manifold studs. That is one of the areas that I would prefer to use means other than open flame or welders.

 

[Dan 2N]

Bruce, go to Sears and get a -stud extractor- It has a hole with a cam inside and will work in either direction. A lot less problems.
Dan 2N

 

[Dunk]

Here is what I do...

I take my cutting torch (oxy/propane), and I turn 'em nearly white.

Then I let 'em cool back down till they are just barely red, and clamp a set of good vice grips on 'em and work them just barely back and forth.

If they don't move, I take the vice grips off, and do it again, and I might get them just a little bit hotter.

Haven't broken one off yet, but I have lots of experience with things like that.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Thanks guys! I now have some ideas for Plan A, which is to remove the stud (and an excuse to buy a new tool) as well as Plan B, use the die to re-cut the stud.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Tnx for the tip! The hood is off & on sawhorses as I just replaced the king pin. But, the entire tractor will be outside before I fire up the torch, and I will wipe it down nice & dry as I have PB Blaster dripping all over the valve covers now.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Save yer money that funky look'n stud remover is a waist of money,,, with vice grips you can werk it back and forth,,,git a feel for it,,, can not do it with the funky stud remover,,, give the vice grips a shot,, with the funky stud remover you stand a better chance of snap'n the stud off,,,, it pulls off center,,, allows ya to put more force on it than is needed,,, penetrant and tap'n on the end of the stud while werk'n vice grips would b were i would start,,, a man can not own to many vice grips,,, If I were gonna blow money on a stud remover I would git a nice'n made for the job,,, not a funky off set cam stud break'n twister,,, keep plan B in mine at all times,,, my plan B would b to cut the stud off and leave enuff to weld a nut to and extract it,,, let heat b my friend,,, if that did not work cut the nut off reinstall a nut and use the nut as a center for a drill bit to center the hole,,, drill it out NO EZ OUT,,, Keep this in mind,,, each zaust stud is rite under a head bolt,,, hope no one installed 2 long of a head bolt,,, one head bolt at a time cam b removed and and spray some penetrant down the hole (if ya got head studs fer git that),,, their is not much clearance tween the end of the stud and the valve chamber ,,, keep that in mind if ya git to drill'n.

One more thang,,, drain the coolant,,, heat taint much good if coolant is on the other side

 

[Anonymous-0]

Bruce,
Don't feel so bad. I just broke off all three of my water pump bolts on my 9N. Got one out but with messed up the threads. Going one more size larger tap on that one. Might have to retap em all before it's over. They must not of had Neversieze back then. I seal all my bolt threads now with teflon thread sealer. I hate to remove any 8N 9N stud or bolt unless I absolutly need to. They ought to have tought us broken bolt 101 in sixth grade. Oh well the public school system has failed us again.


mArK.......

 

[corvetteguy]

ditto

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Tnx Hobo! I'll save my money & try the vice grips!

 

[Hobo,NC]

Removing studs does require the feel,,, a special feel,,, what I try and do is rock the stud back and forth,,, loosen tighten till i can git some free movement,,, it will feel to b the tiniest little bit,,, keep the penitent to it and keep work'n it,,, don't try and over do it or you will either snap it of or induce a werk hardening of the metal and it will break. If you can git to the point were it will free turn out even a 1/8 of a turn, you can git just a little meaner with it,,, back and forth till it feels like it will come out,,, if at any time it binds up go back in with it. I have herd of a wax treatment but never had any luck,,, expect it will work it you can git it to move. Had to git some manifold studs out to day,,, heated the manifold red hot,,, no go,,, beat and soaked on the stud,,, heated the stud red hot and walked off,,, came back and werked the vice grips back and forth,,, with time little by little it started to git the feel it had some free play,,, almost felt like the vice grips were moveing on the stud,,, could not be the vice grips thay were tight to the stud,,, got'em out,,, came close to having a hour in it on the table,,, sounds like $270 to me he he