Farmall 400 fluids time #128512;

[ChampagneNBeer]

Hi all,

Time to change all the fluids on the Farmall 400 - gonna order needed gaskets, filters etc from Case but have a problem.

The 806 manual was great, broke down every gasket and o-ring needed to do the job and the parts finder on Case website matched, making ordering simple.

BUT, for the 400 gasser, the IH manual sucks. A bunch of goofy cartoons and no real parts breakdown and the Case drawings aren't much better.

Long story short - I want to change all fluids, filters, gaskets, rings etc that are necessary.

I have no intention of dropping crankcase pans or the like, so don't need those type gaskets, but as example:

On the 806, when changing hydraulic filter, I changed the gasket in the housing unit and the gasket on the case etc whether needed it or not; or for oil filters I changed the top o-ring and the snap o-ring on the bolt; or as example the brass washer on the crankcase pan - may not have needed it, but did it anyway once in there.

Now, for the 400, I have no idea what additional o-rings, gaskets, filters etc are necessary cuz the manual is poop and would prefer to order everything needed vs getting in there and finding I don't have something.

For the 400, anyone have a better breakdown of the needed items to change out all filters and associated rings/plugs/gaskets?

Thanks! 😀

 

[Janicholson]

The trans drain include three pipe plugs under the rear of the tractor in a row. They require no gaskets or sealant, just modest tightness. Each drains a separate sump, from a common fill point. The fill point is a triangular plate on the right side of the platform opposite the gear shift. A gasket might be needed, but can be made or purchased. the trans must have hytran to prevent TA failure. The engine oil pan plug (99% of the time) needs no new copper gasket. The oil filter canister has a square section O ring under the steel shell in a groove. It is in there or it would leak. It must be replaced with a new one that should come with the filter. There is need of a dental or mechanics pick to get the old one out. It is a painful removal, get it out. The bolt has a copper gasket that seals the top. It usually does not need replacement. The hydraulic oil screen takes a gasket to remove and clean and replace. hytran must be used in the reservoir. The PTO can be drained, and it has a level hole on the left side toward the hitch cylinder. it does not take much, but is not common to the differential and final drives. The air filter cup needs 15-40 oil just like the engine. Fill it to the line marked on it after cleaning it. The mesh abofe the cup inside the filter is often ignored. if you can see mesh exposed it is probably OK as is. if it is black and filled with sludge, it needs to be completely removed and high pressure washed out. Not easy or fun. When starting it after the changes, the hydraulic might take some time to reprime. Put the front wheels lower than the rear, (ditch) and work the hitch and steering for 10 minutes to assist priming. grease all fittings. Take time to figure out the waterpump bearing lun=brication from the book. also the distributor shaft bearing proper greasing. Not intuitive. use the book. Jim

 

[rustred]

i have no idea why you are worried about a book , and calling it poop. those books are for people with tractor experience. everything is self explanitory very simple tractor . the oil filter comes with its own 0 ring. look the tractor over.your basically just draining oil and refilling on everything.

 

[Redturbo]

Oil filter part # is 376376R91 & comes with seal. Quad ring part # is 13728D for the oil filter housing base. Washer for the bolt is part # 1372D which holds the metal housing to the base. Oil pan drain plug gasket is 3405HA.

Trans/diff holds 15 gallons. Pto holds 2 quarts

If you have hydraulics on your tractor, about 14 quarts. Part # for the mesh screen gasket is 361441R1. More than likely the screen needs to be pulled out & cleaned by now.

The new caseIH parts website isn't very handy I'm finding. Messicks out of PA still has the old site up, this is where I got all this info from.

All the Red tractors I have, just went to Binder Books & ordered them up. Lots of places online have parts books & shop manuals for sale.

 

[ChampagneNBeer]

I don't think these basic operator manuals are for experienced mechanics - have you seen the cartoons in these older manuals?

To me, it seems these manuals were for basic operations of the tractor and maintenance a farmer could be expected to accomplish on the farm.

My point was simply that even the 10yr later 806 manual detailed the breakdown of maintenance much better than the 400 manual.

Sure, I can take off a cover or remove a housing unit b/c it is simple but would prefer to have pre-ordered the necessary replacment parts before disassembly, which the manual does not detail nor is Case overly helpful.

I am sure 50 years ago you could call up your IH dealer and say "order me the necessary parts to do 'X' for my Farmall 400" but today that is not reality.

Lastly, my point was I would hate to I remove a crankcase pan only to find ordering the replacmement online is delayed or unavailable for whatever reason.

Simple to work on - mostly - but that fact doesn't omit my question or points.

Thanks for your comment though 😀

 

[ChampagneNBeer]

Hi RedTurbo,

Thanks for the details.

When changing the oil filter, is the quad
ring gasket necessary (ie do I need to
remove the housing in order to pull the
filter)?.

 

[ChampagneNBeer]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the breakdown.

Looking forward to ordering up some parts tomorrow - not looking forward to picking out the old gaskets... Had to do that on the 806 for the oil filters and while not terribly difficult, certainly was annoying trying to clean out every stuck piece in order for the new gaskets to slide into their respective channels.

I assume the air filter cup need not be replaced just cleaned out, similar to the glass fuel bowl, but what about the hydraulic cleaner?

Is this a replacement part or cleanable part?

Thanks again 😀

 

[caterpillar guy]

The screen on the 806 is washable then reinstall with new filter.

 

[Janicholson]

It is washed in solvent and replaced filled to the line as noted. The screen is as shown in the link. it needs to be as shown, not collapsed. Clean and replace it where it was. If collapsed, clean and reshape it as best you can. I have seen where they need to be opened up at the far end and had a steel spring put inside to keep them round, then soldered back to close them around the spring. Jim
The parts store illustration

 

[rustred]

you are talking opertors manuals. yes i see the cartoons and think they are funny.you need the service manual if your looking for mechanical procedures.but they sure will not tell you how to change oil. i dont need to look in a book how to run a tractor or change oil or overhaul the engine other than for the spec's. i know how to do the job but cant keep a pile of spec's in my head. and no u dont remove filter housing changing the oil filter,... just unscrew the filter housing . 50 years ago you could walk into the dealer and get any part you needed. now it is" we have to order that". plus i dont buy parts till i have the unit apart to see what i need. i have my horses in front of the plow. and i dont buy online either. i am old from the old school.

 

[ChampagneNBeer]

😀

I agree the cartoons are silly.

I can completely understand if one was familiar with tractors they would know what is what - but for me, being new to this stuff, the manual and searching over the tractor is what I have (aside from folks on here &#128513.

Maybe we differ, but I am more of the, welp, I am gonna be in there doing this anyway, might as well change that, get this o-ring, that seal, this gasket and do it all at once; who cares if it "needs" it - it is already drained of fluid, might as well knock it out.

One an aside - this leads me to my new post on the 400.

Check it out and lemme know if you have any suggestions 😀