Farmall 450 hydraulic problems

[Wyatt74]

I have ave a farmall 450 with factory power steering and standard drawbar. I have blown the pump seal out twice now and this time I have had the flow divider block rebuilt. The hydraulic pump still gets hot and stays on pressure so we drilled the office to .40 and replaced the first remote block with correct one for power steering bypass with no change in the system. We have also checked the single and double acting adjustments on all three remotes and that didn t help either. I am looking for suggestions on what it may be as we have tried about everything that others have posted what their problems were. The tractor hydraulics stay cool and engine doesn t lug if the #1 remote lever is forward position which is the rear remote with bypass block on it. Thanks

 

[Janicholson]

The regulating valve with the orifice might be sticking in its bore, or the screen might be plugged. The rear remote is dropping pressure to the point that the valve in question is not affected at all. What fluid is being used? Did this happen in hot weather? Thick fluid, or fluid that gets thick, can cause the issue as well. Jim

 

[Wyatt74]

Jim I am using hytran and when the seal blew it was in hot weather but now after we have replaced a bunch of parts it still gets hot after a few minutes of run time. The regulator valve has been removed and inspected several times as well as the office and screen with no change in the pump wanting to dead head. The factory flow divider- priority block was rebuilt at a machine shop so I am thinking that can t be the problem the steering works perfectly. Thanks

 

[used red MN]

Use a laser temp gun to scan the system from a cold
start. This should show you where the oil is passing to
heat it up. Do you have the cultivator outlets on the
sides by the gas tank? Have you checked those to see
if they are zero pressure with the remote valves
centered? I am not sure what you mean by a bypass
block? I am not a 100 percent sure but I think the
blocks on those usually contain checks to hold
implements in position if the remote valves leak by.
Maybe something is messed up with that remote valve
and it is calling for pressure in the centered position
and when you move it forward it centers and opens the
return. Have you had a gauge on the rear remote
outlets or used a cylinder on it? If so what was the
response or pressures shown? I would have guessed if
it was checked and showed pressure you would have
included that information or rectified the problem.

 

[rustred]

you are running over relief to create heat. you should be able to install a guage after the pump to check the pressures along the line,
before and after relief.

 

[D Slater]

Correct you replaced the control valve closest to steering post and run the steel pipe from it to the regulator and priority block and installed plug in steering post lower hole if I remember right? If only using the one control valve so you wouldn't notice on others it makes me wonder if plug went in wrong hole and blocked flow from valve. Think one control valve is on demand if that's not it.

 

[Janicholson]

I agree. If the regulator/safety was rebuilt by a machine shop, is there a chance it was put together wrong? what did they DO to rebuild it? One last thought. What was the reason, circumstance, issue, that caused it to be repaired? (sequence) Jim