Farmall 656 motor issues

[andy stockmaster]

got it out and put it on a 12 foot disk today. running better but still laeves a little tobe desired. there is a video attached. would pull decent in third tourque back but not ahead as you can see in the video. second was the same way but didn't get a video of that. some of the smoking in the video i think has to do with that the manifold hasn't been welded yet, and i don't think i had the valve cover seal on right and was leaking oil on the manifold. also i don't think the generator is working right but i am not sure. is there a way to check it?
Untitled URL Link

 

[Stephen Atkins]

Andy; sounds ok to me but I am used to diesel. For comparison I had a 706 with the ger.engine. Pulled a 15'tandem disk with bar harrow and had a 4/16 fast hitch plow.I had plenty of power but not enuf traction,even with loaded tires. I would run in 4/low with the TA up. Tach said I was going about 5mph.

Keep working with it,you will get it yet.

Good Luck
Steve

 

[LMack]

It should handle that harrow in high third with no trouble, even work in high fourth in light soil but then again my 656 was a diesel. Sounds like there is some problem with the TA if it just will not pull in high second or third. Will it go down the road in high fifth?

 

[oldtanker]

Andy it sounds OK except for the lugging in high range. That tractor may be a little short on HP with the 12 Ft disk. I was always told 2 ft per HP. At just under 60 HP at the draw bar you maybe should be looking for a 10 footer. I slow down a bit when disking with my 14 footer behind the 1206. I can run 5-6 MPH at a lower throttle setting.

Rick

 

[andy stockmaster]

it will go down the road in fifth tourque ahead. tractor usedto pull an 8 row corn planter with no problem. TA seams good because we could go from high to low and notice it pull better in low and faster in high

 

[the tractor vet]

I will tell you what is wrong , Your timing is off as to what way on the video i can not tell for sure . You need a GOOD timing lite and you set the timing on that engine at 19 degree BEFORE TDC at 2050 RPM . Change your gas and use 93 octane she is tryen real had to seeze the pistons to the liners . she is laboring way to hard and on that flat ground she should be able to run forth high . Run thru the valves again and this time look real close at the end of the rocker arms where then touch the valve stem and you will see where the ware is and keep your feeler gauge off the high spot . Bring the engine up on TDC #1 and do 1-2 3-5-7 and 9 then turn the engine over one complete revaluation and do 4-6-8-10-11-and 12 . set the valves at .027 and anything over 70 degrees is good ya do not have to try and get it to operating temp because by the time your done setting it has cooled down any way . you should have a lite drag on the fleer gauge and i mean lite You will find that your valve set is off as you did not know about the wear on the rockers and this will give you a false valve set . Timing and fuel is super important on the newer 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder engine . I know them vary well and still run the gassers and do farm with them . Not sure what spark plugs you are running but we have had vary good luck with the A/C C 86's on the gasser or the 386 auto lites or the 3116 i think hell to get old and not remember all the numbers like i use to . Also make sure that you have solid core ing. wires not the carbon core car wires. When that gasser is wright she will lug down till ya can count the fan blades going around and almost die and pull the torque and she will come back to life . Don't know where ya live just to bad your not in my back yard or i would teach ya everything ya ever wanted to know .

 

[Janicholson]

Listen to the Tractor vet. Every thing he said is for real. The timing must also follow a curve to get from the static timing engine off, to full advance. Check the distributor shaft for side to side/up and down wear if you can feel it it is worn too much. This looseness affects the timing radically. The centrifugal advance is a set of springs and weights in the distributor (Under the plate holding the points). This tractor will live!! Jim

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yup...if she was running right you can pull 4 16s al day in 2nd and only need t/a in the tough spots. Grew up on a 656.

 

[andy stockmaster]

i'm in new washington ohio. GOOD timing lite and you set the timing on that engine at 19 degree BEFORE TDC at 2050 RPM what does that mean? will a simple test light work? thanks

 

[the tractor vet]

Ok , what does it mean to set the timing at 19 degrees at 2050 rpm, you run the engine speed to the 2050 rpm then you adjust the engine timing to the 19 degrees before tdc. . But first ya must clean up the ft. pulley and find your marks on it and it is wise to use some white paint to mark BOTH the TDC mark and the 19 Degree mark BTDC . Now some times they can be hard to almost impossible to see and if so then i take a shape chisel and remark them . I have at times had to use the dial advance feature on my timing lite to get them dialed in . You will find that not all I H tractors set the same and you have to really check on the spec.'s , as Janiclson said last night that ya also need to see if the rotor will move back and forth and see how much side to side play ya have . . This due to the tractor just being used way to much when new. . I am located in north east Ohio .And since you are in the Buckeye you can still find the 93 octane gas , yea it is 20 cents more BUT keep track of what you put in the tractor and ya can take the road use tax off and that helps a lot . Now IF you would like to talk to me direct you can E/Mail me and i will give you my phone # both the house and my cell. Here in a bit i will see just where your at from me and who know's i just MAY make a road trip to you if it is not tofarr.

 

[andy stockmaster]

well i would really appreciate it as i am not exactly sure how to go about some of these things. right now i am working on re setting the valves. as far as the rotor goes it moves very very slightly side to side but a good little bit up and down.

 

[the tractor vet]

If it is moving up and down that can be a small problem and depends on the side to side , BUT what about back and forth you should be able to feel the spring wanting to snap it back. My E/Mail is [email protected] . I am setting here at the house and should be all day unless something goes south at the farm. . Checked the map and yo are about two and half hours to the west of me .

 

[the tractor vet]

Change of game plans here , I WON'T be here at the house all day . I will be home later this evening, And If ya are still having problems Then we will try and sort them out on here OR If needed i could maybe take a drive out tomorrow and see what we can do to make this thing RUN . .

 

[Farmallhal]

Tractor Vet, your assistance is most commendable as Andy has been working this very hard and long and he would probably gain a "real insight" with just a little personal direction and assistance. Jim has been a major help in this as well along with others here on the forum, Hal.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Hi Andy - ya gotta kind of put up with us old geezers. I'm almost 50 and now realizing that those 20 years younger did not grow up with breaker point mechanical distributors and carburetors. Before electronic ignition systems we all had to frequently "tune" our gassers for them to run right. It's all about the right spark at the exact right time with the proper amount of fuel. That's where the terns lean (not enough fuel), rich (too much fuel), and "out of time" (firing too early or late) comes from. Google search some of these terms - I think this will help you tune your engine into specs. A proper running 656 should spin the rear tires if you dump the clutch in 3rd gear. Don't hold back to turn her up for power it was built to run.

 

[Anonymous-0]

One more thing you mention the manifold needs welded. That's a major clue, proper manifold is critical to the vacuum that pulls the gas through the Carb. Where is it cracked? Upper exhaust pipe is only place where a crack can be tolerated. If yours cracked any lower replace it.

 

[andy stockmaster]

manifold is cracked on #1 cylinder exhaust on the side. here is a picture kinda hard to see but to the left of that red wire you can see it. it has been welded befor.

 

[andy stockmaster]

here is the picture

 

[Anonymous-0]

I don't think #1 will fire properly with that crack, all six have got to fire properly for the engine to have any power. You could also damage the exhaust valve on that cylinder by loading the engine (field work etc). If it were mine I would replace the manifold rather than fix it again.

 

[andy stockmaster]

that should work if you would be interested in coming. send me an email at [email protected] and i will send my phone number.