Farmall B blocks

I got a ‘47 B that I’m in need of a block for.

I have a new set of sleeves and pistons that I purchased for the original 113 block, but recently found a large crack and would rather replace than repair.

Would a block out of a Super A work for me? Looking to just install my new pistons and sleeves and reuse everything off my old engine (crank cam gears mag etc) if possible.

Thanks for any help
 
The block from any A, B, BN, etc. is the same. The early Super A block has provision for a hydraulic pump. It can be used with a cover over that opening. There is some minor fiddling (forgot the details) with one bolt between the block and the front bolster. The bolt goes the opposite way into a threaded hole for pump clearance. The C used the same block as the Super A. The later Super A block is the same as a Super C. It would work but not with your new sleeves as the lower bore in the block is larger.
 
I got a ‘47 B that I’m in need of a block for.

I have a new set of sleeves and pistons that I purchased for the original 113 block, but recently found a large crack and would rather replace than repair.

Would a block out of a Super A work for me? Looking to just install my new pistons and sleeves and reuse everything off my old engine (crank cam gears mag etc) if possible.

Thanks for any help
Is yours cracked on the carb side like most of them are? It can be fixed with JB weld. I have one like that too But won't fix it until I need it.
 
I put a super A block in my B for the hydraulics as I hated the vacuum lift and wasn't big enough to use the hand lift cultivator. It did take the bigger pistons but it sure woke up the B. I pulled a 1-16" IHC Little Genius pull plow before and went to a 2-12" hyd lift Oliver plow....James
 
Is yours cracked on the carb side like most of them are? It can be fixed with JB weld. I have one like that too But won't fix it until I need it.
Yeah. The gentleman I have working the short block says it’s pretty substantial, so I won’t be going that route with this one.

Found a shop nearby that does metal stitching going to be calling them
 
I put a super A block in my B for the hydraulics as I hated the vacuum lift and wasn't big enough to use the hand lift cultivator. It did take the bigger pistons but it sure woke up the B. I pulled a 1-16" IHC Little Genius pull plow before and went to a 2-12" hyd lift Oliver plow....James
"vacuum lift"???
 
I got a ‘47 B that I’m in need of a block for.

I have a new set of sleeves and pistons that I purchased for the original 113 block, but recently found a large crack and would rather replace than repair.

Would a block out of a Super A work for me? Looking to just install my new pistons and sleeves and reuse everything off my old engine (crank cam gears mag etc) if possible.

Thanks for any help
Any block with provisions for the hydraulic pump (super A) with interfere with a B steering shaft. Supposedly it takes some fab work to make the steering work. Best course is to find an A or B block 😔.
 
I got a ‘47 B that I’m in need of a block for.

I have a new set of sleeves and pistons that I purchased for the original 113 block, but recently found a large crack and would rather replace than repair.

Would a block out of a Super A work for me? Looking to just install my new pistons and sleeves and reuse everything off my old engine (crank cam gears mag etc) if possible.

Thanks for any help
If you are looking to buy a block try JP tractor.
 

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"vacuum lift"???

It's a common misconception, the lift doesn't work by vacuum, never did. It worked by exhaust pressure.

All that aside, it wasn't a robust system. Required a lot of maintenance to keep it working.
In my opinion (and yes, we had a BN with an exhaust lift, so I'm familiar) IH would have been far better off putting hydraulics on the A's & B's right from the start. Probably a cost/pricing issue, as they tried to make those little tractors as cheap as possible to attract small farmers.
 

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