FARMALL MD

[Farmall M 248]

Forgot to mention this, if have the block cleans remove the soft plugs to get the mud and rust out. Soft plugs are 75 years old , install new ones .made that mistake , won’t forget it again.

When it was sitting for years water got in the block and froze and thankfully it just push one of those out instead of cracking the block and I was wondering where you could find those?

 

[Farmall M 248]

Where approx. are you located?
Maybe we can help you out by finding some nearby salvage yards.

Central WI

 

[Farmall M 248]

All i am going to say on this is (love him or hate him) LISTEN TO WHAT RUSTED RED SAYS REGUARDING THIS! the others have good points too. This is not the easiest engine to deal with

Thank you ,and I know what you are saying but I wouldn’t have chosen this project if it was easy.

 

[rustred]

Thank you ,and I know what you are saying but I wouldn’t have chosen this project if it was easy.

do you have experience with the engines ?

 

[Farmall M 248]

do you have experience with the engines ?

I’ve fully rebuilt my gas FARMALL M engine .

 

[Farmall M 248]

This afternoon I got 3 pistons and 1 sleeve out.

 

[rustred]

ya, a lot simpler and cheaper. u pulling the sleeves with a puller ? what you gonna do for an injection pump and injectors ? and head ? and hot tanking the block you need to be prepared for the cam brgs. also.

 

[Farmall M 248]

ya, a lot simpler and cheaper. u pulling the sleeves with a puller ? what you gonna do for an injection pump and injectors ? and head ? and hot tanking the block you need to be prepared for the cam brgs. also.

No ,one sleeve came out of the pistons and peeling out the rest. And as far as the injection pump and injecttors goes I’ll see if it works and cam bearings I’ll see what they look like when I get the cam out.

 

[used red MN]

No ,one sleeve came out of the pistons and peeling out the rest. And as far as the injection pump and injecttors goes I’ll see if it works and cam bearings I’ll see what they look like when I get the cam out.

rr is suggesting you have the block hot tanked/caustic soaked and I agree with him especially since it froze and pushed out a core plug.This cleanup would allow a machine shop to do a proper check for hidden cracks. A hot tank destroys the babbit bearing surface of cam bearings. Many shops no longer have hot tanks due to the environmental problems with dumping the solution after it is spent. A lot of them bake them in high temp ovens at about 700F which has nearly an equivalent result.

 

[560Dennis]

When it was sitting for years water got in the block and froze and thankfully it just push one of those out instead of cracking the block and I was wondering where you could find those?

My machine shop has them stocked . Also Napa auto parts, AZ, Oreillys ,Advance, have them , just measure outside diameter of bore of block soft plugs.
Maybe YT have them ,Steiner, Bates Corp, check .
Since you mentioned freezing I would immediately take engine head to machine shop and pressure test it. That way you know how to procedure build. This will save a lot of time and effort in this build. Also magnaflux block ,

 

[Farmall M 248]

My machine shop has them stocked . Also Napa auto parts, AZ, Oreillys ,Advance, have them , just measure outside diameter of bore of block soft plugs.
Maybe YT have them ,Steiner, Bates Corp, check .
Since you mentioned freezing I would immediately take engine head to machine shop and pressure test it. That way you know how to procedure build. This will save a lot of time and effort in this build. Also magnaflux block ,

Thanks for the information it is helpful. The head wasn’t on the block and I don’t have one yet.

 

[Farmall M 248]

The guy that mat made the video I posted spent close to $14K on just the engine parts and services.

 

[rustred]

Ok, the sleeves seem excellent,and no ridges or pits so I’m hoping with good hone job they’ll be fine , as for the pistons I’m going to have to find decent ones .

i just looked at you engine block , and wow, them old sleeves are done like dinner. you can see the ring wear ridge plus all that rust. nothing to save there. my choice would be looking for another tractor with this engine. nothing worst then trying to make a boat anchor run. you might have to break into Fort Knox to complete this project. . humm, if this engine would cost 14k, which i totally agree, i can sell you a very nice running 1948 MD for 1/3 of that.

 

[used red MN]

The guy that mat made the video I posted spent close to $14K on just the engine parts and services.

So if you’re the young man setting in the seat of the Farmall M in the “First start” thread my question is who is the finance person in this equation? They are the ones that should help you apply “financial intelligence” to your projects. I agree with rustred, take a second swing on this project and look for a different specimen. I suppose if the finance provider has a money tree grove and just wants to say we did it because we could, indeed carry on. If financial wisdom has any part of this, the “reconsider flag” is definitely waving on this project. Farmall MD’s with free engines are not extremely difficult to find.

 

[rustred]

them engines are easier to find than finding someone with a cash tree and interested in throwing cash at it by doing a proper complete rebuild. post 5 still has me scratching my head and that was the big flag for me. just putting an engine together without following the factory spec's is by no means a rebuild. i cant use the word i used last time as it got me in trouble for posting the truth in another post. just so you know... rebuild is because the original parts are wore over spec. and a complete rebuild starts with a bare hot tanked magnafluxed block. then you get started , that one will also need the block planned with that much rust. then the mains have to be checked for alignment or boring. the end result is an engine that is as good as a new engine. i hate the word rebuild and overhauled as its way overused. to get the head done can be 2500.00 plus many are cracked between the valves. same with the injection pump , big money unless you find an old guy that knows them, and us old guys are getting scarcer. same with injectors, plus no parts available for them. there is timing gears to check for wear, camshaft and followers are probably rusted and junk. oil pump is probably junk also. be interesting to see your documentation of assembly.

 

[Farmall M 248]

them engines are easier to find than finding someone with a cash tree and interested in throwing cash at it by doing a proper complete rebuild. post 5 still has me scratching my head and that was the big flag for me. just putting an engine together without following the factory spec's is by no means a rebuild. i cant use the word i used last time as it got me in trouble for posting the truth in another post. just so you know... rebuild is because the original parts are wore over spec. and a complete rebuild starts with a bare hot tanked magnafluxed block. then you get started , that one will also need the block planned with that much rust. then the mains have to be checked for alignment or boring. the end result is an engine that is as good as a new engine. i hate the word rebuild and overhauled as its way overused. to get the head done can be 2500.00 plus many are cracked between the valves. same with the injection pump , big money unless you find an old guy that knows them, and us old guys are getting scarcer. same with injectors, plus no parts available for them. there is timing gears to check for wear, camshaft and followers are probably rusted and junk. oil pump is probably junk also. be interesting to see your documentation of assembly.

You have a lot of good points,and I also agree that the word overhauled is way over used and when I do a project I don’t do it half way and it may take a while and quite a bit of money but I plan on finishing this project because I would rather rebuild this one and know what I have in it than buy a “running” MD and having to rebuild that one anyway.

 

[Farmall M 248]

So if you’re the young man setting in the seat of the Farmall M in the “First start” thread my question is who is the finance person in this equation? They are the ones that should help you apply “financial intelligence” to your projects. I agree with rustred, take a second swing on this project and look for a different specimen. I suppose if the finance provider has a money tree grove and just wants to say we did it because we could, indeed carry on. If financial wisdom has any part of this, the “reconsider flag” is definitely waving on this project. Farmall MD’s with free engines are not extremely difficult to find.

Yes,I am the one in the picture and I know there is probably better things that I could spend my money on but I like a good project that takes me awhile because the”easy” ones aren’t hard enough and like I said I like a good challenge .

 

[560Dennis]

Yes,I am the one in the picture and I know there is probably better things that I could spend my money on but I like a good project that takes me awhile because the”easy” ones aren’t hard enough and like I said I like a good challenge .

Good to hear about the taking up the challenge, press ahead.

 

[560Dennis]

Suggest this , I don’t trust the bores in the blocks of that engine. They need to have them checked for roundness ( perfect circle)

You have to skip some of it to get the part about the sleeves.

Check out these powerbore sleeves made right in Salem Ohio

Case IH Cylinder Sleeves

Precision-engineered cylinder sleeves for Case-IH engines. PowerBore manufactures durable, U.S.-made sleeves built for performance and longevity.

powerbore.com

 

[Farmall M 248]

Suggest this , I don’t trust the bores in the blocks of that engine. They need to have them checked for roundness ( perfect circle)

Check out these powerbore sleeves made right in Salem Ohio

Case IH Cylinder Sleeves

Precision-engineered cylinder sleeves for Case-IH engines. PowerBore manufactures durable, U.S.-made sleeves built for performance and longevity.

powerbore.com

Thank you for the information any extra I can get I appreciate ,but I got got the rest of the sleeves out yesterday and the bores look really good not even very rusty. How are those sleeves different?