Farmall Super A leak

Matt9260

New User
There are three holes under my Farmall Super A. The one on the left side runs transmission fluid out of it as fast as I put it in. Is there a plug that is supposed to be in these holes?
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There is no plug there - just a way for mice to climb inside. Sounds like the seal behind where that hole is is shot. I've never heard of one leaking oil as fast as you say but when the seal is bad it will leak oil and eventually come out that hole. Probably brake band is oil soaked also. Maybe yours is leaking so fast because it is way over filled. Have you checked the oil level? I don't recall for sure but I don't think the oil level is so high as to be covering the seal.
 
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There is no plug there - just a way for mice to climb inside. Sounds like the seal behind where that hole is is shot. I've never heard of one leaking oil as fast as you say but when the seal is bad it will leak oil and eventually come out that hole. Probably brake band is oil soaked also. Maybe yours is leaking so fast because it is way over filled. Have you checked the oil level? I don't recall for sure but I don't think the oil level is so high as to be covering the seal.
On the side near the center of the tractor next to the main gear case the seal is number 26 in this linked diagram. I am not to familiar with those model of tractors so maybe someone else that is can tell you why there are 3 different options.
CNHI Farmall Super A parts diagram I suggest just to just X out of the options to choose a dealer.
The axle and final drive assembly just slides out once you have it all unbolted. You’ll want to unbolt the wheel and use an engine hoist to lift the final drive to remove it.
On the outer final drive end there is also a seal which looks like where you are leaking the most. On the parts diagram at the top Click “Chassis” by the arrow. Then select diagram 172, part 9 is the seal for that location. Again there are 3 options. Also the seals are no longer available from the dealer so you will be using the numbers to cross over to find them. I think YT has the seals, I suggest calling them to get the correct ones. Also as mentioned by Charlie you will probably find that your brakes are oiled up when you get it opened up.
 
Agree with both other replies. I agree strongly on it being overfilled. Crack the drain plug open and see how much water you get out of it. Only fill it to the level plug which is on the left side partly obstructed by the brake rod. There is a picture of the plug in the Owner's Manual. The 3 different part numbers on the seal are just replacement part numbers. The "D" number is probably a thick leather seal. The others are probably neoprene. You should be able to cross reference from any of them to a standard seal number.
 
I've changed a lot of seals in my A, BN and 100 and all the seals came from on line parts places like YT, Steiner, etc. Gaskets too. I've changed all the rear end seals on all three tractors without any problem ordering the parts.
 
This makes me a little batty 😜.......if you don't know why are you commenting???? There are folks here that do know 😔 General knowledge is great, wonderful, fabulous,but let someone who knows answer. Just an observation,not picking or being rude. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh- rant over
 

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There are three holes under my Farmall Super A. The one on the left side runs transmission fluid out of it as fast as I put it in. Is there a plug that is supposed to be in these holes?
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Transmission is probably way over full. Most likely water ( condensation) oil floats on water,gets pushed up and out. Those seals are much better at keeping dirt out than oil in. Drain the transmission, leave the plug out overnight ( let's 99% of the sludge drain) then refill with 80/90 or thicker gear oil. 4 or 5 quarts, depending on if you have the 90° gear box. Leak should stop, the proper amount of gear oil never gets high enough to leak 😔
 
This makes me a little batty 😜.......if you don't know why are you commenting???? There are folks here that do know 😔 General knowledge is great, wonderful, fabulous,but let someone who knows answer. Just an observation,not picking or being rude. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh- rant over
Go ahead and be “driven batty” and scribble red circles. By giving him a link to the manufacturer’s online parts catalog I am just providing him a reference that he most likely didn’t know about. Yes, I know you have bought a similar machine in pieces and assembled it into a running tractor. I also know you have worked on dozens of Cubs that are similar so you “know” these things from stem to stern. I’m sure you probably have paper copies of the parts book for them, I am fairly confident this guy does not. As you know if the guy is asking if those holes should be plugged he needs guidance and information on how his machine works and is put together. I was just trying to provide a piece of that.
I appreciate that you have added the information given from your experience on the gear cases likely being overfilled.
 
Go ahead and be “driven batty” and scribble red circles. By giving him a link to the manufacturer’s online parts catalog I am just providing him a reference that he most likely didn’t know about. Yes, I know you have bought a similar machine in pieces and assembled it into a running tractor. I also know you have worked on dozens of Cubs that are similar so you “know” these things from stem to stern. I’m sure you probably have paper copies of the parts book for them, I am fairly confident this guy does not. As you know if the guy is asking if those holes should be plugged he needs guidance and information on how his machine works and is put together. I was just trying to provide a piece of that.
I appreciate that you have added the information given from your experience on the gear cases likely being overfilled.
This is where a good discussion over breakfast in a decent diner would be nice,and more productive. I'm betting we would both agree more often than not. And it would easier to help folks fix their machines 😎 99.9% of the time I'm not too batty 🦇 🦇 🦇 🦇 🤪
 
Thank you for all the information. I drained it overnight and that corrected the problem.

The belt pulley seal was also leaking I took the number off the seal (48954-D) and ordered a seal for it. It is a complete different size (thickness) than what I have originally. Is this correct or what do I need to do to fix this problem.
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Thank you for all the information. I drained it overnight and that corrected the problem.

The belt pulley seal was also leaking I took the number off the seal (48954-D) and ordered a seal for it. It is a complete different size (thickness) than what I have originally. Is this correct or what do I need to do to fix this problem.View attachment 110394View attachment 110395View attachment 110396View attachment 110397
Modern seals are a different thickness,it's fine
 
Thank you for all the information. I drained it overnight and that corrected the problem.

The belt pulley seal was also leaking I took the number off the seal (48954-D) and ordered a seal for it. It is a complete different size (thickness) than what I have originally. Is this correct or what do I need to do to fix this problem.View attachment 110394View attachment 110395View attachment 110396View attachment 110397
The sealing part of those original seals were leather. To shape the leather to seal on the shaft and form it to be clamped/stamped into the seal housing they had to be made physically thicker. They lasted a good long time though.
 
The sealing part of those original seals were leather. To shape the leather to seal on the shaft and form it to be clamped/stamped into the seal housing they had to be made physically thicker. They lasted a good long time though.
They sure did. Doubt this one lasts that long
 
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On the side near the center of the tractor next to the main gear case the seal is number 26 in this linked diagram. I am not to familiar with those model of tractors so maybe someone else that is can tell you why there are 3 different options.
CNHI Farmall Super A parts diagram I suggest just to just X out of the options to choose a dealer.
The axle and final drive assembly just slides out once you have it all unbolted. You’ll want to unbolt the wheel and use an engine hoist to lift the final drive to remove it.
On the outer final drive end there is also a seal which looks like where you are leaking the most. On the parts diagram at the top Click “Chassis” by the arrow. Then select diagram 172, part 9 is the seal for that location. Again there are 3 options. Also the seals are no longer available from the dealer so you will be using the numbers to cross over to find them. I think YT has the seals, I suggest calling them to get the correct ones. Also as mentioned by Charlie you will probably find that your brakes are oiled up when you get it opened up.
Thumbs up ...a parts list makes any job easier...
 
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