Farmall Super C Engine Sputters (I tried searching)

[dadgummit]

Hello Everyone...new to the forum. First off I would like to say that this is a very valuable forum! I have searched on here many times and found the answers to my questions. That being said I am almost at the end of my rope:

I have a 1951 Farmall Super C. It was handed down to me from my Dad. Been sitting for the last 10 years or so. So far we have put almost every oil seal in it. PTO, Axles, Trumpet housings, front seal in transmission, Rear main, oil pan, valve cover, front cover, front seal, governer seal. New water pump, new radiator. I think we are about to get all the leaks stopped... :lol:

Tractor starts really really well, runs like a top at an idle or high idle.

Problem is that it has a flutter when it is brought up from an idle very fast at all. Not a backfire but a flutter. Once it levels out to a specific RPM it runs like a top, no misfiring or anything. Also whenever it is put under a load, it tries to flutter out at any RPM. If you keep the load on it until it dies, it is really hard to start back.

So far this has all been done: (Seriously, it has)

Carburetor: Took it apart and installed a new kit in it. Soaked it for 6 hours in carburetor cleaner from a parts store. Ran torch tip cleaners through all the jets, removed what I could, blew air through all the ports. If there's anything stopped up I sure can't find it. The float and needle and seat seem to be doing their job. No trash in the inlet screen.

Fuel Flow: The sediment bowl is new. Seems to be getting really good fuel flow through it. (I have read the posts about people having a restriction in the line. I don't appear to have a restriction of any kind) blew air backwards through the fuel line.

Spark: New Plugs (Gapped to .025) and Wires. New distributor cap and rotor. New electronic ignition (see link below my tractor has been converted to 12 volt) New coil with internal resistor, BOUGHT A REBUILT DISTRIBUTOR

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/1442_Electronic-Ignition-Conversion-Kit-12V-Negative-Ground_4275.htm

Governor: Took it apart and cleaned it. Installed new spring. Tractor runs 1860 rpm at high idle according to a timing light.

Valve lash: Set to .014 per specs

I put a timing light on it and got it timed pretty well to TDC, maybe a degree or 2 advanced. It does not backfire at all. Using the timing light, it appears to be advancing about 8-10 degrees at full throttle. I know it is supposed to advance 16 degrees. Should I be suspect of the distributor?

My Dad keeps telling me it is an updraft carburetor and I will have to live with some of that, but it just does not seem right. In order to get it to pull itself in 4th gear you have to be moving in 3rd and slowly let out on the clutch in 4th just to get it going. Doesn't seem right to me???? Again, It starts really well, and at a level rpm it couldn't run any more smooth.

I have not ran a compression test, but it holds decent oil pressure. At an idle it is pretty low (edge of the red on the gauge), but it comes up pretty fast when throttle is applied. I'm told this is somewhat normal on these.

Any help would be appreciated guys! Because I don't really know what else to check.

 

[Janicholson]

Congratulations on having the finest handy size Farmall.
Welcome to the Forum on YT.
The advance issue is important. The timing is set best using a plain old test light. Attach the light to the coil to dist. terminal, and ground. Set the engine at TDC on compression #1 cylinder to the timing mark.
Now move the distributor until the light just sputters on when turning the dist CCW looking at the cap. This is the static timing, clamp the distributor. If this is done, and the centrifugal advance only allows 8 to 10 degrees, the issue is under the points plate where the advance weights and springs are located.
The next issue is richness of the mixture. A slight lean condition is caused by Ethanol fuel. If using E10, a slightly higher float level, a just a tiny bit bigger main jet, and richening of the idle mix is appropriate. I hope this helps. Jim

 

[dadgummit]

Ok I understand the principle of what you are saying on the static timing...and I will try it for sure. But with my electronic ignition I have 1 wire attached to the positive side of the coil and 1 attached to the negative side of the coil. The wire going to the disctributor is gone. Should my test light still go on the negative side of the coil?

I know the electronic ignition is not exactly factory...but it seemed to run a little smoother after I installed it. Hard to tell it is there with the cap on.

As far as the gas goes...there is a gas station close by that sells 93 octane with no ethanol...I have started using it.

Thank You!!

 

[David G]

Worn distributor bushing

 

[Janicholson]

One side of the coil will be supplied with constant voltage. the other will blink. Use the blinking side to check it. Further it might need to be turning to make the electronic system function. If so using the timing light at cranking speed. Or cranking it by hand (plugs out and grounded)will let you see the marks with no advance. Jim

 

[gene bender]

Just like other post said dist shaft is worn. Next time you have it running hok up the timing lite and then go from wire to wire and you will see some not firing steady.

 

[souNdguy]

ditto what JN said about checking advance and main mix richness.

 

[dadgummit]

Thanks a ton guys!!! I was a bit suspect of the distributor since it appeared to not be advancing much....the thought crossed my mind that the weights could be stuck out as well. I plan to pull the distributor on Monday and see what all is happening in there...never had one apart but maybe it won't be too hateful to do. I will do a search on the forum for any pointers.

Kind of a shame...I bought the distributor rebuilt a couple years ago, and it has been ran very little since. The rest of the work has been done recently. Guess whoever rebuilt it could have overlooked some things.

Thanks Again!!

 

[souNdguy]

might simply free up with some lube if the are stuck.. but check arms.. etc. never know what you will find.

if advance is good, enrichen her a bit and recheck.

 

[dadgummit]

:lol: I'm so happy right now I could hug my mother in law...err maybe not that happy but I am pretty happy!

So I took the distributor off and took a gander at the weights and springs. Turns out there were two springs in there that didn't even look like each other, and they were not moving the weights all the way back to center. I went to the parts store and got some springs from a kit that they had on the shelf. Seemed to work okay. Put them on...sanded the weights and lubed everything up.

Now it runs great!! Pulls much better than I thought it would just driving it around!

I can't imagine who "rebuilt" the distributor and put those springs in it. Lesson learned.

Anyway, thanks for the help guys!!! I really appreciate it!

 

[souNdguy]

good deal.

when I got my ford naa.. the advance was stuck and rusty and the spring clip under the rotor was missing. it's a wonder it even started. no wonder the starter was near burned up.

glad you got er fixed.

 

[Janicholson]

Remote advice can and does work when someone knows the answer (we are Cloud Computing in some bizarre kind of way) I too, am glad it worked. Jim

 

[Bull Gear]

Hello Everyone...new to the forum. First off I would like to say that this is a very valuable forum! I have searched on here many times and found the answers to my questions. That being said I am almost at the end of my rope:

I have a 1951 Farmall Super C. It was handed down to me from my Dad. Been sitting for the last 10 years or so. So far we have put almost every oil seal in it. PTO, Axles, Trumpet housings, front seal in transmission, Rear main, oil pan, valve cover, front cover, front seal, governer seal. New water pump, new radiator. I think we are about to get all the leaks stopped... :lol:

Tractor starts really really well, runs like a top at an idle or high idle.

Problem is that it has a flutter when it is brought up from an idle very fast at all. Not a backfire but a flutter. Once it levels out to a specific RPM it runs like a top, no misfiring or anything. Also whenever it is put under a load, it tries to flutter out at any RPM. If you keep the load on it until it dies, it is really hard to start back.

So far this has all been done: (Seriously, it has)

Carburetor: Took it apart and installed a new kit in it. Soaked it for 6 hours in carburetor cleaner from a parts store. Ran torch tip cleaners through all the jets, removed what I could, blew air through all the ports. If there's anything stopped up I sure can't find it. The float and needle and seat seem to be doing their job. No trash in the inlet screen.

Fuel Flow: The sediment bowl is new. Seems to be getting really good fuel flow through it. (I have read the posts about people having a restriction in the line. I don't appear to have a restriction of any kind) blew air backwards through the fuel line.

Spark: New Plugs (Gapped to .025) and Wires. New distributor cap and rotor. New electronic ignition (see link below my tractor has been converted to 12 volt) New coil with internal resistor, BOUGHT A REBUILT DISTRIBUTOR

Farmall Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit - 12V Negative Ground for Farmall Cub,Cub 154 Lo-Boy,Cub 184 Lo-Boy,Cub 185 Lo-Boy,A,AV,Super A,Super AV,BN,C,Super C,H,HV,Super H,Super HV,M,MV,Super M,Super MTA,Super MD,Super MDV,100,130,140,200,230,240,3

Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit - 12V Negative Ground 1442 for sale, Pertronix Electronic Ignition Module Replaces Points and Condenser. Use on tractors with 12 volt NEGATIVE ground system only. Use with IH distributor 353898R1 or 357935R91 on: Cub, Cub Lo-Boy, Cub 154 Lo-Boy, 184, Cub 185...

www.yesterdaystractors.com

Governor: Took it apart and cleaned it. Installed new spring. Tractor runs 1860 rpm at high idle according to a timing light.

Valve lash: Set to .014 per specs

I put a timing light on it and got it timed pretty well to TDC, maybe a degree or 2 advanced. It does not backfire at all. Using the timing light, it appears to be advancing about 8-10 degrees at full throttle. I know it is supposed to advance 16 degrees. Should I be suspect of the distributor?

My Dad keeps telling me it is an updraft carburetor and I will have to live with some of that, but it just does not seem right. In order to get it to pull itself in 4th gear you have to be moving in 3rd and slowly let out on the clutch in 4th just to get it going. Doesn't seem right to me???? Again, It starts really well, and at a level rpm it couldn't run any more smooth.

I have not ran a compression test, but it holds decent oil pressure. At an idle it is pretty low (edge of the red on the gauge), but it comes up pretty fast when throttle is applied. I'm told this is somewhat normal on these.

Any help would be appreciated guys! Because I don't really know what else to check.

have you had the Govenor apart? sounds like searching.

 

[Jim.ME]

have you had the Govenor apart? sounds like searching.

You likely will not get an answer from dadgummit. This is a thread from 2013 and dadgummit has not posted, at least using that name, since 2014.

 

[used red MN]

have you had the Govenor apart? sounds like searching.

Hello BG, welcome to YT? Are you familiar with forums? One of content items you added was placed on a profile. I am not sure how those work we are only 4 months into an upgraded format here that has many features. Maybe you are familiar with the layout of this forum and did that on purpose. I feel like a profile post would be more like giving a congratulations to a member for helping you out in a forum discussion by solving a difficult problem. If you did that by mistake I would suggest making sure you are replying in a forum. This is done by typing in the open box at the bottom of a discussion or “Thread” as we have learned to refer to them here. Or actually clicking the word “Reply” under someone else’s reply. Or of course you can start your own thread under a relating topic by clicking the “New Thread” button.

 

[Bull Gear]

Hello BG, welcome to YT? Are you familiar with forums? One of content items you added was placed on a profile. I am not sure how those work we are only 4 months into an upgraded format here that has many features. Maybe you are familiar with the layout of this forum and did that on purpose. I feel like a profile post would be more like giving a congratulations to a member for helping you out in a forum discussion by solving a difficult problem. If you did that by mistake I would suggest making sure you are replying in a forum. This is done by typing in the open box at the bottom of a discussion or “Thread” as we have learned to refer to them here. Or actually clicking the word “Reply” under someone else’s reply. Or of course you can start your own thread under a relating topic by clicking the “New Thread” button.

Thank You because I don't anything! BG

 

[used red MN]

I take it you meant that you don’t know much about how the forum works. In each thread keep an eye out for the subjects or threads below the header that says “Similar Threads” I believe that is where some of the threads you responded to were at. Those topics are placed there by the forum’s software computers as matching the topics being discussed above it. Often they are older and not being currently discussed. Look at the dates before you add on a reply anything within the last month is probably okay. Adding information is not a big problem, but it tends to fall on deaf ears if you know what I mean. (maybe could even be considered a waste of your time) Also if you don’t change your preference settings in your profile you’re going to get a bunch of emails from your posts here. Maybe you are okay with that.
Go down to Site Comments almost at the bottom of the Forum List, there is a How to Guide there, I don’t think it has been totally completed. It will tell you how to get in and change your profile settings.