Farmtrac 555

[Rush55]

You can search Farmtrac 555 and a site called Farmtrac-tractor-parts.com comes up, on that site you can download a service manual for $125 which is a little high for me. You can also download a free parts manual
The main harness is # ESL15193
The instrument panel harness is # Yes

SL14953
I’ve never been able to get parts from them but searching those numbers will bring up into agri solutions, I’ve purchased a number of parts from them

 

[Rush55]

I deal with Joe's Tractors where I got two fuel lines but unable to get wiring harness anywhere( I'm on waiting list with Lisa in Cleveland, Texas for a wiring harness whom I've gotten several parts from ; key switch, fuel shut off solenoid etc.; she is real nice.The place in texas has web site called farmtrac parts where I also download the parts manual. I thank you so much and if I can help you in anyway let me know.
Thanks

 

[Rush55]

u said you have a Ft 555

 

[used red MN]

I was getting to the point of suggesting that you get the manual. I wasn’t sure how receptive you would be to the $125 price. Here is the link for the download FT 555 repair manual
A tractor with multiple thousands of dollars invested in it is of no value if it doesn’t work. So in that light $125 should be well worth it.
So to be clear the wires were burnt..?
A. It would not start or operate and you tore it apart and found the burnt wires.
B. You were testing, jumping around wires, or crossing wires and this was the result?

Either way the burnt wires could maybe be replaced with wires added on outside of the loom but you have to know what connections they go between, that is where the manual comes in. One problem with that approach is if the wire that was hot inside the wire harness melted through insulation of other circuits and is shorting them they can be negativity affected by that.

 

[Rush55]

I was getting to the point of suggesting that you get the manual. I wasn’t sure how receptive you would be to the $125 price. Here is the link for the download FT 555 repair manual
A tractor with multiple thousands of dollars invested in it is of no value if it doesn’t work. So in that light $125 should be well worth it.
So to be clear the wires were burnt..?
A. It would not start or operate and you tore it apart and found the burnt wires.
B. You were testing, jumping around wires, or crossing wires and this was the result?

Either way the burnt wires could maybe be replaced with wires added on outside of the loom but you have to know what connections they go between, that is where the manual comes in. One problem with that approach is if the wire that was hot inside the wire harness melted through insulation of other circuits and is shorting them they can be negativity affected by that.

Did you see the pics I put on of the burnt wires? I can get a repair for 12.00 through Farmtrac in Cleveland, Tx

 

[Rush55]

Did you see the pics I put on of the burnt wires? I can get a repair for 12.00 through Farmtrac in Cleveland, Tx

I can crank my tractor as long as I put jumper cables on the tractor battery and the negative battery cable on the other end for a ground otherwise I just get a clicking noise whe turning the ignition.

 

[used red MN]

Did you see the pics I put on of the burnt wires? I can get a repair for 12.00 through Farmtrac in Cleveland, Tx

Yes I see the burnt wires. My point is what caused them to burn? You can fix them but if whatever caused the problem shorts out again they will burn off again. That is all I mean by asking the question.
Your description with the jumper cables to me describes a bad negative battery cable or a bad ground attachment point. That is what you picture was supposed to show, how these connections were made. That part in bold was means that the ground cable bolts to a part on the tractor but that part is not contacting the main castings of the tractor properly to conduct the current back to the starter as it is bolt to the engine or bell housing for its ground. Which means to me the surfaces of it and the connecting bolts of it to the main frame have rust or dirty, corroded contact surfaces. It is ideal for a negative cable to bolt directly to the cast parts of the tractor engine or bell housing and the best of all to a starter mounting bolt.

 

[Rush55]

Yes I see the burnt wires. My point is what caused them to burn? You can fix them but if whatever caused the problem shorts out again they will burn off again. That is all I mean by asking the question.
Your description with the jumper cables to me describes a bad negative battery cable or a bad ground attachment point. That is what you picture was supposed to show, how these connections were made. That part in bold was means that the ground cable bolts to a part on the tractor but that part is not contacting the main castings of the tractor properly to conduct the current back to the starter as it is bolt to the engine or bell housing for its ground. Which means to me the surfaces of it and the connecting bolts of it to the main frame have rust or dirty, corroded contact surfaces. It is ideal for a negative cable to bolt directly to the cast parts of the tractor engine or bell housing and the best of all to a starter mounting bolt.

 

[Rush55]

Thank you used red MN Red used be my nickname. Anyway ill try and explain. 1. tractor wouldnt crank with ignition 2. attempted to bypass ignition switch tractor wouldnt start cause fuel wasn't going to the injectors since fuel shut off solenoid wasn't working.3 was told to run wire from positive post to solenoid so injectors would get fuel. 4 was told to put ignition wire to same place hot wire "battery" goes at first no problem . tried later jumper cable arched causing fire so I'm assuming the key switch wire placement caused the wires to burn. well this is the best way I can explain it

 

[robertmeyer524]

I have a farmtrac 545 and bought it with a burned (shorted) harness. My failure occured under the hood primarily. I spliced in new wires. From my experience the fuse box powers lights which have been removed from my tractor. I did add aftermarket temp, oil pressure and voltmeter gauges. IGN ON provides power to gauges and the fuel control solenoid on the diesel fuel timing system, Start provides power to the starter solenoid and to the Thermostart (glow plug) (which is a bad design). If you are attempting to replace the Glow Plug (thermostart) on a
FarmTrac 545 the following works.

Since I was already working on the electrical system I added a momentary push button switch for the thermostart circuit and added a relay that
mounts in the battery tray and removed control from the keyed starter switch. The original switch applies voltage to the thermostart via a 10 gauge wire everytime you hit the starter. The idea is that you use the transmission disconnect switch to disable the starter, and hold the switch in start to energize the thermostart (glow plug) for 20 secs, then take the tractor out of gear and crank the engine. Who thought that idea up was trying to save money at manufacture. Using a relay and a smaller gauge wire for control is a concept that has been around since the early 1900's.

For a glow plug replacement the following worked for me.

1- Order a 2666108 Glow Plug for a Ford Tractor - it arrives with a

7/8-14 Thread.

2- Order a 13/16 -14 Tap and Die

3- Cut the New Glow Plug (Thermostart) down to 13/16-14 Thread

4- Add an O-Ring and Install it into the FarmTrac 545 intake

The new threads I cut were about .007" smaller than the original glow plug, but it was easier to cut the glow plug than it would have been to tap out the intake to 7/8-14. I ordered two of these glow plugs on amazon for less than $40. The tap and die was less than $30.

 

[used red MN]

I have a farmtrac 545 and bought it with a burned (shorted) harness. My failure occured under the hood primarily. I spliced in new wires. From my experience the fuse box powers lights which have been removed from my tractor. I did add aftermarket temp, oil pressure and voltmeter gauges. IGN ON provides power to gauges and the fuel control solenoid on the diesel fuel timing system, Start provides power to the starter solenoid and to the Thermostart (glow plug) (which is a bad design). If you are attempting to replace the Glow Plug (thermostart) on a
FarmTrac 545 the following works.

Since I was already working on the electrical system I added a momentary push button switch for the thermostart circuit and added a relay that
mounts in the battery tray and removed control from the keyed starter switch. The original switch applies voltage to the thermostart via a 10 gauge wire everytime you hit the starter. The idea is that you use the transmission disconnect switch to disable the starter, and hold the switch in start to energize the thermostart (glow plug) for 20 secs, then take the tractor out of gear and crank the engine. Who thought that idea up was trying to save money at manufacture. Using a relay and a smaller gauge wire for control is a concept that has been around since the early 1900's.

For a glow plug replacement the following worked for me.

1- Order a 2666108 Glow Plug for a Ford Tractor - it arrives with a

7/8-14 Thread.

2- Order a 13/16 -14 Tap and Die

3- Cut the New Glow Plug (Thermostart) down to 13/16-14 Thread

4- Add an O-Ring and Install it into the FarmTrac 545 intake

The new threads I cut were about .007" smaller than the original glow plug, but it was easier to cut the glow plug than it would have been to tap out the intake to 7/8-14. I ordered two of these glow plugs on amazon for less than $40. The tap and die was less than $30.

Hello Robert, welcome to YT! Not sure how in tune you are with forums but the thread you replied to is from August 2024, so just wanted to make sure you were aware of the date. I consider any thread on here older than two months as “not current” However adding information to older threads is a good thing due to most of these threads are archived here for others to find in their web searches as well as the internal forum search feature. Also adding it looks like the fix you have added here is a well thought out addition.
I am going to attempt to be as polite as possible considering that the original poster of this thread member Rush55 and the owner of the subject tractor may see this. Although, if you check his “last seen” by clicking his username it shows November 2024. He may still receive an email on this post if he chose that in his profile settings. A few days after he posted this he posted another thread that he titled “Poor Connection” here is a link to that Rush55 Poor Connection
If you look at the start of it you will see he opened with saying he bought new battery cables. It turned out that he actually just bought replacement clamp on battery terminal ends. The thread went on 200 some replies to get him convinced that his negative battery cable had an open in it. Secondly, that it would be best if he let a local Vo-Tech school repair the problem with his wiring. Part of those posts were instructing him how to set it up to be wired temporarily so he could load it on a trailer to take it to the Vo-Tech school.
Per discussions with him I don’t believe he is at a knowledge level to where the information you gave would be something he could use. However repeating, it is still good information added.
Hope you hang around, we need more members that are familiar with these lesser known brands. The majority of discussion here is around the main line agricultural machines from roughly the 1990 model year and earlier.
Thanks for chiming in!

 

[robertmeyer524]

Thanks for pointing that ouT Used Red MN ! I lived up north for 20 plus years, but am in SW MO now. I have an extensive background in electricity and electronics, but most of my experience is in aviation and communication and navigation systems engineering. Worked for the FAA for 10 years, you do not want to hear those stories. haha I spent 8 years active duty USMC and most of that was chasing electrons in aviation related work. I do not want to add wings to my tractor and I like staying on the ground however. As far as the switch situation with 12 VDC to the glow plug everytime you start the engine is just not a sound in my book. In the older days the switch had a dedicated glow plug position from what I have heard. Placing it on a relay that is mounted on the battery tray provides a shorted power run to the glow plug also since it is just below the battery tray. I am not finished with this project yet, but once I am all electric problems will have been erased for now. I think the original melt down resulted from shorting the starter's Positive cable to ground because this made the alternator power wire act like a fuse and melt and the alternator was bad. When the alternator wire melted so did sensor wires which resulted in some guages staying ON all the time. I tried to troubleshoot this using theory and the schematic, but I made real headway by removing the hood and stripping the cable covers off then the melted wires were exposed. I heard a story once of two FAA engineers at a navigation system installation on the airport. They were jacking around and shorted out a battery with a wrench. When they did that the wrench melted. The current in these batteries is POWERFUL. The hydraulics side of tractors is my area of weakness. The diesel fuel systems and the mechanical timing is very impressive on the FarmTrac, mine is a Bosch system.

 

[used red MN]

Thanks for pointing that ouT Used Red MN ! I lived up north for 20 plus years, but am in SW MO now. I have an extensive background in electricity and electronics, but most of my experience is in aviation and communication and navigation systems engineering. Worked for the FAA for 10 years, you do not want to hear those stories. haha I spent 8 years active duty USMC and most of that was chasing electrons in aviation related work. I do not want to add wings to my tractor and I like staying on the ground however. As far as the switch situation with 12 VDC to the glow plug everytime you start the engine is just not a sound in my book. In the older days the switch had a dedicated glow plug position from what I have heard. Placing it on a relay that is mounted on the battery tray provides a shorted power run to the glow plug also since it is just below the battery tray. I am not finished with this project yet, but once I am all electric problems will have been erased for now. I think the original melt down resulted from shorting the starter's Positive cable to ground because this made the alternator power wire act like a fuse and melt and the alternator was bad. When the alternator wire melted so did sensor wires which resulted in some guages staying ON all the time. I tried to troubleshoot this using theory and the schematic, but I made real headway by removing the hood and stripping the cable covers off then the melted wires were exposed. I heard a story once of two FAA engineers at a navigation system installation on the airport. They were jacking around and shorted out a battery with a wrench. When they did that the wrench melted. The current in these batteries is POWERFUL. The hydraulics side of tractors is my area of weakness. The diesel fuel systems and the mechanical timing is very impressive on the FarmTrac, mine is a Bosch system.

Thank you for that background information, very interesting! I grew up and spent the first 40 years of my life in NE KS. You can find out more on that if you open my profile and go to “About”