Poor connection

[Rush55]

Well I been bought new cables for my tractor and it still just clicks when turning the key switch. mechanic at the tractor place said it may be the solonoid

 

[Russ from MN]

Take a good set of jumper cables and a known good battery and jump right to the starter, that will eliminate a lot of possibilities.

 

[Rush55]

I found out one thing a good set of jumper cables is a necessity cause are able to get good ground. Can I use battery in my truck and then put positive cable to starter motor that attaches to the solenoid and then ground to frame of tractor

 

[Watthour]

You can do that but only IF the tractor is negative ground.

 

[Rush55]

You can do that but only IF the tractor is negative ground.

that's right . I took wrench and touch black wire on the solenoid and end of positive cable to solenoid(attached to the starter) And you are right you got to have a strong battery.Now the question is why the ignition key just clicks. How do you know where the problem is? I'm sorry I probably shouldn't even own a tractor and I've talked to different people who mean well but no solution.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

The contacts in the relay could be the problem. Just because it clicks does not mean it's making good contact.

 

[Rush55]

The contacts in the relay could be the problem. Just because it clicks does not mean it's making good contact.

im not sure what you mean? Where is the realy? when you say not making good contact are you referring to the ignition switch.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

im not sure what you mean? Where is the realy? when you say not making good contact are you referring to the ignition switch.

The solenoid.

 

[used red MN]

im not sure what you mean? Where is the realy? when you say not making good contact are you referring to the ignition switch.

Please ALWAYS place the tractor make and model in you post!! Thanks!
Some folks insist that a solenoid is on a system where there is internal mechanical linkage that moves/assists the starter drive to engage. A “relay” while having heavy lugs for battery cables are named that. I don’t have time now to look up and post examples of each.(I put this much time in this I might as well add this.. Link to example starter relay) If your are possibly familiar with older Ford vehicles they use a “relay” on the fenders for the starter and the battery cable connected through them and they are basically the on of switch for the starter.
FT555 example starter Per this link it looks like you have a solenoid type starter. What can happen is the contacts in the solenoid can wear down and not send power to the starter motor. In the link look at the solenoid. When you turn the key switch the smaller terminal to the right of the large terminal with the battery cable on it should be energized. Then internal contacts connect the stud the battery terminal is on to the stud the copper strap is on powering the starter motor. (2nd edit) Before doing the following short across tests make absolutely sure the tractor is in neutral!!) Carefully shorting across from the top battery cable to the small terminal should engine the starter if all is well the engine should crank. If nothing then again carefully short across the two large terminals mentioned above with something like an old screwdriver you don’t care about because there will be arcing. This will either engage the starter and crank to engine. Or it may just make the starter motor spin and not engage. Report what you get when doing this. Much simpler test methods could be explained if you have a volt meter or automotive test light.
I sure wished you would have replayed in a photo or two what connections you were explaining you made in your first post that you said made it crank.
You can use jumper cables between units that have different battery polarity. Just MAKE SURE THE TWO ARE NOT IN METAL CONTACT with each others, ie bumpers or frames touching. And make sure the polarity of the connections always matches per the battery post polarity. If you are confused by any of this you just SHOULD NOT do it, especially if one of the units has an alternator. These can be immediately damaged if connected to the wrong polarity.
What is the status of the burnt wires shown in your other thread? Here is a link to it.
Other post on subject
Edit to add: Does the click definitely come from the starter area? If not it may be something else that is having power shut off to it in the start position. Is this a cab tractor? I doubt it but just asking. Knowing if the small terminal in the solenoid is being energized in the start position by using a test light would be extremely helpful.

 

[Jim.ME]

Guessing you are posting about the same tractor as before (as used red MN posted you should tell what it is when you start a new post to save confusion). It appears the Farmtrac 555 uses a starter mounted solenoid. It could be a bad solenoid, binding linkage inside it, a bad starter, bad safety switch, or a bad ground, for a few things.

I have not read through all your other posts about this, so I apologize, in advance, if the answer to these questions have been given.

With the tractor in neutral. Check the voltage across the battery terminals. Check the voltage at the battery cable on the starter. Then check the voltages at the battery and the starter when trying to start it. Report the results.

One of the two small terminals on the solenoid should get power from the switch when it is turned to start. Have you confirmed it is getting power and what voltage is, at the small start terminal of the solenoid, when the key is turned to start. If you have not done that, again be sure the tractor is in neutral and then check it. Also, try a jumper wire between the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid and the small starter terminal. and see if it cranks when you do that. Report the results.

 

[Rush55]

Guessing you are posting about the same tractor as before (as used red MN posted you should tell what it is when you start a new post to save confusion). It appears the Farmtrac 555 uses a starter mounted solenoid. It could be a bad solenoid, binding linkage inside it, a bad starter, bad safety switch, or a bad ground, for a few things.

I have not read through all your other posts about this, so I apologize, in advance, if the answer to these questions have been given.

With the tractor in neutral. Check the voltage across the battery terminals. Check the voltage at the battery cable on the starter. Then check the voltages at the battery and the starter when trying to start it. Report the results.

One of the two small terminals on the solenoid should get power from the switch when it is turned to start. Have you confirmed it is getting power and what voltage is, at the small start terminal of the solenoid, when the key is turned to start. If you have not done that, again be sure the tractor is in neutral and then check it. Also, try a jumper wire between the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid and the small starter terminal. and see if it cranks when you do that. Report the results.

 

[Rush55]

Wow thank yall so much. It's all overwhelming because I'm not as experienced as yall are. It's hard on here without actually talking to someone so I apologize. yes I have a farmtrac 555 and the solenoid sits on top of the starter. BTW i did take the starter off bench tested both the starter and solenoid and both worked fine which was confusing. I'll report back on my progress and can't thank yall enough for and inexperienced louisiana country bunpkin.

 

[Tony in SD]

I understand that a volt meter is a tool of last resort for some but it is a real handy tool to find where you are losing the voltage. I prefer it over using jumper cables. I have measured 1 volt from the battery post to the battery cable clamp. Removed the clamp, cleaned, problem solved. If you are one who is intimidated by electrical, jut remember It is like any other tool. You just need to lean how to use it. You will be glad you did.

 

[rustred]

Well I been bought new cables for my tractor and it still just clicks when turning the key switch. mechanic at the tractor place said it may be the solonoid

Clue us in as to what tractor u have , that’s a big help. Just as a general thing out of my brain a clicking solenoid makes me think of a dead or low battery. Sounds like a ford solenoid thing. But no idea cause have no information here.

 

[rustred]

Well I been bought new cables for my tractor and it still just clicks when turning the key switch. mechanic at the tractor place said it may be the solonoid

Yes the mechanic is correct. The solenoid has 2 windings. A pull in winding and a hold in winding. So that means the pull in winging is doing It’s job , but the hold-in winding is not. So it just pulls the drive in and no way to hold it in so it’s just a repeat situation. That is your clicking. If the battery is good , if the cables are good replace the solenoid. I learned all that when I took my apprentice ship pretty much 50 years ago. And yes I am a red seal technician.

 

[E.B. Haymakin']

Well I been bought new cables for my tractor and it still just clicks when turning the key switch. mechanic at the tractor place said it may be the solonoid

Have your battery tested.....how old is the battery if 4 or more years it may be dead. Make sure both the positive/hot post, and the negative/ground post are not corroded along with the cables/terminal ends

 

[Blackhole49]

Wow thank yall so much. It's all overwhelming because I'm not as experienced as yall are. It's hard on here without actually talking to someone so I apologize. yes I have a farmtrac 555 and the solenoid sits on top of the starter. BTW i did take the starter off bench tested both the starter and solenoid and both worked fine which was confusing. I'll report back on my progress and can't thank yall enough for and inexperienced louisiana country bunpkin.

Something to try. Take a 10 gauge wire from the positive post on the battery to the activation post (one from the key) on the solenoid with the key in the start (not crank) position. If it starts when you touch the post, message me.

 

[Rush55]

Something to try. Take a 10 gauge wire from the positive post on the battery to the activation post (one from the key) on the solenoid with the key in the start (not crank) position. If it starts when you touch the post, message me.

a got and old 220 electric wire is that 10 guage.So let me see if I understand what you mean run wire from battery post to key switch post that for the ignition. was confused when u said on.the solenoid

 

[Jim.ME]

a got and old 220 electric wire is that 10 guage.So let me see if I understand what you mean run wire from battery post to key switch post that for the ignition. was confused when u said on.the solenoid

He is suggesting the same thing I suggested to you when I said "Also, try a jumper wire between the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid and the small starter terminal. and see if it cranks when you do that." The only difference is he is saying to go to the battery post instead of using the solenoid terminal on the starter which is what I suggested.

When you say you bench tested the starter and solenoid, how and what did you do?

Did you clean the battery posts when you put the new cables on your tractor? Guessing the same battery is in it as when the wiring short occurred, have you had the battery tested and recharged it if it tested ok? (You need to include such details, or someone will question you.)

Start with the voltage tests and work through things one step at a time. Jumping around is a good way to miss things.

 

[Rush55]

He is suggesting the same thing I suggested to you when I said "Also, try a jumper wire between the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid and the small starter terminal. and see if it cranks when you do that." The only difference is he is saying to go to the battery post instead of using the solenoid terminal on the starter which is what I suggested.

When you say you bench tested the starter and solenoid, how and what did you do?

Did you clean the battery posts when you put the new cables on your tractor? Guessing the same battery is in it as when the wiring short occurred, have you had the battery tested and recharged it if it tested ok? (You need to include such details, or someone will question you.)

Start with the voltage tests and work through things one step at a time. Jumping around is a good way to miss things.

yes I've use jumper wire and also a screw driver to bypass the ignition and it has cranked like that although seems harder like the battery is weak tested and charged battery. I still have to have jumper cables on tractor battery and negative end grounded to tractor also it won't do nothing with just the battery and no cables hooked I'm sending a picture