Fixing a Pitted Lower bore

[CasebyCase58]

Hello All. I’m working on a 1959 Case 800 diesel tractor with the 267 diesel block. I am in the process of an out of frame rebuild and am looking at installing new sleeves. I pulled the old ones out (completely toast) and the bores where the lower o-rings seal are fairly pitted. I’ll attach a photo of the worst spot. I’d like to try and fix them with epoxy or something similar and was wondering if you guys had any tips or tricks for doing it. I have a similar post on the Case forum, but decided to post it here as it’s not really manufacturer specific.
Thanks for the help,
Al

 

[Janicholson]

If the native bore (Block casting) there are erosion issues there as well. In my opinion if the black marks on that area are contact scrapes where the new sleeves will touch, the reboring of the block for repair sleeves, then boring those for the new sleeves. The condition of the Oring groove is a second issue (if I were faced with saving this block I would probably put #2 non hardening permatex in the groove and then the Oring. Not the best, but those pits would be difficult to repair by smoothing, and a different Oring would be needed. Woof. Jim

 

[Fritz Maurer]

A-C 3500s in the 7000 series do that all the time. Get yourself a die grinder and a 1/4” spade bit extension long enough to reach the bottom of the cylinder. Use a small diameter wire wheel and clean the pitted area up all shiny. Wipe some muriatic acid on the pits to get out a little more rust. Clean it out with ether or brake cleaner. Mix up some good epoxy ( I use epoxy base fiberglass resin, as it fluidly adheres to the pits better) and coat the pits. Use a 2” flap wheel in your spade bit extension and take a real light cut, just enough for the base metal to show through. Reach down in there and finish it by hand with 400 wet/dry paper. Drop the sleeve in without the seals and see that you can rotate the sleeve by hand. I like to set the sleeve upside down in the counterbore with a little lapping compound just to clean up the imperfections so it doesn’t jam in the counterbore while you’re test fitting the lower bore.

 

[Janicholson]

If the native bore (Block casting) there are erosion issues there as well. In my opinion if the black marks on that area are contact scrapes where the new sleeves will touch, the reboring of the block for repair sleeves, then boring those for the new sleeves. The condition of the Oring groove is a second issue (if I were faced with saving this block I would probably put #2 non hardening permatex in the groove and then the Oring. Not the best, but those pits would be difficult to repair by smoothing, and a different Oring would be needed. Woof. Jim

I didn't know it was a wet sleeve engine, but I still stand on the other ideas. If the area above the groove is degraded, it could be a struggle to keep coolant where it belongs. Jim

 

[37chief]

Hello All. I’m working on a 1959 Case 800 diesel tractor with the 267 diesel block. I am in the process of an out of frame rebuild and am looking at installing new sleeves. I pulled the old ones out (completely toast) and the bores where the lower o-rings seal are fairly pitted. I’ll attach a photo of the worst spot. I’d like to try and fix them with epoxy or something similar and was wondering if you guys had any tips or tricks for doing it. I have a similar post on the Case forum, but decided to post it here as it’s not really manufacturer specific.
Thanks for the help,
Al

I had the same problem with my AC Model M. I used JB weld and shaped it when it when dried. Using fast setting is better. Stan

 

[MF#1]

Years ago I had a Gas WD-45 that seeped coolant into the oil. Pulled the sleeves, cleaned up where the O-rings were and put in new O-rings. A frequent poster on here suggested a "technique" to prevent future issues like that. He said to pour about 8 to 10 ounces of Permatex Aviation Gasket Maker in the block cavity where the anti-freeze would go, just enough to cover ALL of the area around the sleeves above the O-rings. Let it set for a day or three to allow some hardening of the "goo". It solved my issue, "Your mileage may vary" of course, Good Luck with it!

 

[CasebyCase58]

Thank you for all of your replies. I think I will try what Jim suggested with the permatex. I will keep you updated on how that turns out. I’m sure I’ll be back here with more questions later on! Thanks once again.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I’ve had good luck with the epoxy followed by flapper wheel on long handled die grinder. In fact it was specifically bought for this. If the flange is with that liner it will make it much easier to epoxy than ones I’ve done you can’t really go wrong unless your liner doesn’t fit when you are done. It’s nice yours comes with new flanges in the liner that’s usually what I have to try to build up. I’d clean it good mix up the epoxy cup and dab it on where the pitting is. Then sand it with the flapper wheel. Check fit with the liner no o-rings.

 

[SkipperII]

We had a couple of Fordson Majors (in our own lease fleet) that had etched out behind the O ring, middle of pea harvest season. The gentleman I worked for had me clean out the grooves, to the best of my ability, ,he then dipped small cotton balls in non hardening Permatex, shoved them into the pits, put in new O rings, and quickly drove the new sleeves in. I don't believe we ever did change the block in those two tractors, in the time that I worked there.

 

[jon f mn]

Smear a bit of JB weld in with a scraper or something and when it's hard use a hone to smooth it. I've done that on several case tractors with good success.