Follow up to post about oil in the CASE SC starter

Greenfrog

Member
1942 CASE SC. I have two posts going on about oil in the starter motor and finding a seal....after much internet search and info from YT readers, I think I have found a seal! However.....
I am suspicious as to why the oil is going from the clutch housing into the starter in the first place?
Oil goes from the crankcase into the clutch housing.....it states this in the operators manual upon filling it with oil...
Is there too much oil in the clutch housing? Too Full? And why?
I have always put in the correct number of quarts.
Is it suppose to drain back into the crankcase?
I have always noticed a little oil seeping out from under the starter. There is a new cork seal around it..
When the oil needs to be drained out/changed, one has to drain via two plugs: one from clutch housing and one from crankcase.
Does it overfill over time?
Anyone know what is going on here?
Starter was cleaned and repaired last summer with temporary fix for oil seal, run in a parade, and oil reappeared in starter when opened up last week.
It is fruitless to repair starter until I get to the source of the problem.
I don?t know how it is made inside the clutch housing.
Help. Suggestions?
Anyone know what is happening here?
 
Not sure how the MAGIC occurs . but it stays equal or adequate .. i always drained both cluthc and oil pan added oil past the overfull , run the tractor a hour or so ,then added oil again to the full mark ,around a qt or perhaps 2
 
I always drain the oil from both the crankcase and the clutch housing.

I add a quart of oil to the clutch housing through the side inspection plate and refill crankcas with fresh oil along with filter replacement.

The oil in the clutch housing will seek its required level from oil in the crankcase.

I have never heard of too much oil in the clutch housing. The wet clutch is a thing of beauty in my opinion you can slip it all day it loves being bathed in oil.

Install you seal, apply some gasket sealer around that starter gasket and enjoy the ride.
 
Not sure how the MAGIC occurs . but it stays equal or adequate .. i always drained both cluthc and oil pan . THEN added oil past the overfull level 2 qts,then went to the field , run the tractor a hour or so ,then added oil again to the full mark ,around a qt or perhaps even 2 , as far as oil getting in the starter motor ,.your starter man MUST be TOLD this is a wet clutch tractor and therefore seal the starter correctly to do the job ,.. as for leaks ?forget it ,,..i am sorry to say and feel safe to bet that half the tractors built by all makers of fine american tractors back in the GOOD Ol Days would probably leak a drop of oil here and there
 
I do not know anything about SC, but on L, LA, C, D etc it is just about impossible to get the clutch housing too full, unless you overfill the crankcase by a significant amount. There is a very large drain from clutch housing to crankcase. I do not think those old oil clutches have ever been bettered on any newer machine.
 
Yes, he knows that this is a wet clutch.
Thanks much for you prompt reply, and to you other fellas that replied.
I was thinking the same, but thought I would throw the question out there.
YT is very useful for things like this.....talk about social media....wow....let?s call it tractor common interest media!,,
 
The oil gets into the clutch from the rear main bearing, and a hole in the end of the crankshaft that is suppose to have a pin in it to slow the oil flow and maintain oil pressure to the bearings. Oil gets back to the crankcase by means of the flywheel. The ring gear picks up the oil and carries it up and dumps it in a trough 1/2 way up on the side of the bell housing. That trough is connected to an oil passage that takes it back into the engine crankcase. I have pulled DC engines that some doorknob has installed a lining pin in the oil passage that takes the oil back to the engine. In that case the oil in the bell housing fills up to the point that it runs over the back of the oil pan to get back to the engine. Bell housing would hold about 2 gallons of oil. if the pin is missing in the end of the crankshaft the rear main will not have proper oil pressure, and it may, or may not show up on the oil pressure gauge. I do not know if the ring gear would carry the oil up to the trough fast enough to keep up or not. Those are the only 2 things that might cause what you explain. Good luck with the search. DK
 
This place certainly has a loving heartbeat of a caring parent ,,. But be careful, like in any family that prides itself in strength thru truth and discipline ,. One must be ready for a swift backhand reprimand that can come out of nowhere like a speeding ticket on a sunday drive . therefore leaving some sulking like a 5th grader at recess who got his lunch money stolen and punched by the school bully ,. LOL ,. But Take Heart, We Truely are a CARING FAMILY HERE
 
You can?t overfill the clutch housing unless you overfill the engine oil. Your problem is in the starter not the tractor. Personally I?d just replace the starter and be done with it. Much simpler than trying to figure out what?s missing or defective in the starter. Someone more familiar with the inner workings of the starter could probably fix the problem though.
I?ve been around Case Sc?s for close to 60 years and never had oil seeping out the starter. You can get an oil leak at the gasket where starter mounts to tractor but that has nothing to do with your problem.
Jim
 
Added info., which I?m sure everyone knows, when you change the oil you pull both drain plugs, oil pan and clutch housing. Reinstall plugs then refill to top plug on oil pan, run tractor, shut down and check oil level, top off if needed.
Jim
 

Oil doesn't really interfere with the operation of the starter motor. Unless the oil is full of grit and metal filings. I've seen these starters full of old oil and they still work. When I had opened these starters in the past it was because the brushes had worn out and needed attention. After new brushes, bushings and a good cleaning the starter was ready to go for another twenty five years. The real starter motor killer is cranking on the starter until it heats up. You should only crank it for fifteen to twenty seconds at a time until the engine starts. If the engine starts harder than that you need to look into the reason why it won't. Be kind to that starter and it will last a long time.
 
Yes, that is correct. I still have operators manual. It says the same. Some guys at tractor shows don?t know that. Some were unaware of tanking out BOTH drain plugs. Thx for replying.
 
Did you find a starter gasket, see link. The gasket just keeps the oil from leaking to the exterior.
Starter Gasket
 
Yes, but thank you anyway.....
Got new one from dealer. Someone said that a large O ring can be used here.....
Thx. DS
 

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