TJ in KY
Member
Hi Flyguy30236, Here is the information you requested. Hope it helps you and any body else hoping to paint their tractor. [b:12b1b43c0f]Let me state again this is my first attempt and I am by no means an expert.[/b:12b1b43c0f] This is what worked for me, and what I gave gleaned from this site and other sites It is much more involved than I can explain here in a few paragraphs. If anyone sees any errors please feel free to ad or correct.
[b:12b1b43c0f]How did I remove old paint? [/b:12b1b43c0f]
A combination of things, first I scraped the heavy deposits off and then high pressure washed it. Then I sprayed it down with oven cleaner and high pressure washed it twice (use eye protection). I did a lot of mechanical work on it, replaced rear axle bearings, and rebuilt hydraulic system. Rebuilt the engine, I had it hot tanked so that cleaned the engine up. A lot of small parts I used an electrolysis tank. It really took the paint off and most of the rust. The bigger parts were cleaned using various wire wheels on drills and air grinders. Get it as clean as you can before wire wheeling it, if not it seemed like the wire wheel just worked the grease and oil into the cast. On some of the areas I used brake cleaner. It will remove oil and grease and some paint in the hard to reach areas. I did a final wipe down with the PPG DX330 wax and grease remover until the white rags are clean. It took 5 or 6 wipes in some areas to get the rags to come up clean, very time consuming.
[b:12b1b43c0f]What kind of paint did I use? [/b:12b1b43c0f]
PPG Omni paint and primers. After much research on this forum I decided to use the PPG products. Specifically I used the MP 170 primer with MP 175 activator (no supplied air system required) I used the MTK Acrylic Urethane with hardener (supplied air system required) I was thinking about using the MAE Acrylic Enamel without hardener, but I got a small sample and tried it on a small part and it took a long time to get hard. The main reason I even considered it was it WOULD NOT require a supplied air system (they cost about $400) I was also concerned about fading of the paint over time. My wife and children got me a supplied air system last Christmas, so I decided to use the MTK with MH 186 slow hardener. DO NOT USE A HARDENER WITHOUT A SUPPLIED AIR SYSTEM. My supplied air system is a Breathe Cool II system.
I will also be using the MP 282 High Build Primer surfacer on the sheet metal and wheels etc. it requires a MH283 Hardener and a supplied air system. I have used it on the dash and steering column and it filled in the small pits and sanded real easily.
You will also need the proper reducers for the above paints. I have on hand MR 186 and MR187 reducers for the MTK and MP 282 Primer. The hardeners and reducers are for certain temperature ranges so you need to talk to your supplier and study the data sheets for the products you are going to use.
You can go to the PPG site and get the data sheets for the above, very helpful.
I primed the tractor in sections because I was getting flash rust in areas before I could get the whole tractor clean and primed. The draw back with that is that you have to scuff it and apply another coat of epoxy before the final color coats.
Paint and primers and other chemicals will probably cost $800 or more.
[b:12b1b43c0f]What type of gun did I use?[/b:12b1b43c0f]
The guns I have used are Trades Pro by ALLTRADE. Not expensive, I got them at a yard sale. Probably a step above the guns available at Harbor Freight. The one I use for epoxy has a 1.7mm tip and the gun for color and high build primer has a 1.4mm tip.
There are videos available for setting up the gun on line and information on this forum. It is important to get the gun set up right.
[b:12b1b43c0f]What type of air compressor and water separators do I have?[/b:12b1b43c0f]
I have a Coleman Powermate compressor rated at 10.3 CFM at 90 PSI it is 7 peak horsepower and 220 volts on a 60 gallon tank. . It works well for using air grinders for cleaning and for the paint guns.
I have about 30 foot of ½ inch copper tubing coming out of the compressor before it goes to the first water separator. There are some vertical drops that assembly I have bleeder valves that I crack when I am painting. It is just a ½ inch separator I got at Harbor Freight. It comes out of that separator thru a 50 foot hose, on a hose reel, to another separator that I have dedicated for spray painting. I then come off of that separator thru a 50 foot hose dedicated for spray painting only. Since I have this setup I have not gotten any water at the second separator while painting.
When using it a lot in humid weather I have gotten moisture thru to the air tools I was using to prep the metal. I drain the tank on a regular basis especially in humid weather.
There is a lot of information on this web site from guys who have painted many tractors and cars and trucks. I have not had much luck searching the archives with this sites search tools but I have found that by adding the words yesterdays tractor after the information I am searching for really helps.
An example being type "Omni MTK yesterdays tractor" in search engine brings up a lot of stuff from this site.
You can use the search engine on the forum to look at all post by individuals i.e." TJ in KY "it works pretty good.
This picture is after I did all mechanical work and put about 8 hours on it to check my mechanical work. As you can see I was dealing with mostly rust on my tractor. Then I tore it back apart and cleaned, cleaned, cleaned.
Hope this helps Good luck. Tom
[b:12b1b43c0f]How did I remove old paint? [/b:12b1b43c0f]
A combination of things, first I scraped the heavy deposits off and then high pressure washed it. Then I sprayed it down with oven cleaner and high pressure washed it twice (use eye protection). I did a lot of mechanical work on it, replaced rear axle bearings, and rebuilt hydraulic system. Rebuilt the engine, I had it hot tanked so that cleaned the engine up. A lot of small parts I used an electrolysis tank. It really took the paint off and most of the rust. The bigger parts were cleaned using various wire wheels on drills and air grinders. Get it as clean as you can before wire wheeling it, if not it seemed like the wire wheel just worked the grease and oil into the cast. On some of the areas I used brake cleaner. It will remove oil and grease and some paint in the hard to reach areas. I did a final wipe down with the PPG DX330 wax and grease remover until the white rags are clean. It took 5 or 6 wipes in some areas to get the rags to come up clean, very time consuming.
[b:12b1b43c0f]What kind of paint did I use? [/b:12b1b43c0f]
PPG Omni paint and primers. After much research on this forum I decided to use the PPG products. Specifically I used the MP 170 primer with MP 175 activator (no supplied air system required) I used the MTK Acrylic Urethane with hardener (supplied air system required) I was thinking about using the MAE Acrylic Enamel without hardener, but I got a small sample and tried it on a small part and it took a long time to get hard. The main reason I even considered it was it WOULD NOT require a supplied air system (they cost about $400) I was also concerned about fading of the paint over time. My wife and children got me a supplied air system last Christmas, so I decided to use the MTK with MH 186 slow hardener. DO NOT USE A HARDENER WITHOUT A SUPPLIED AIR SYSTEM. My supplied air system is a Breathe Cool II system.
I will also be using the MP 282 High Build Primer surfacer on the sheet metal and wheels etc. it requires a MH283 Hardener and a supplied air system. I have used it on the dash and steering column and it filled in the small pits and sanded real easily.
You will also need the proper reducers for the above paints. I have on hand MR 186 and MR187 reducers for the MTK and MP 282 Primer. The hardeners and reducers are for certain temperature ranges so you need to talk to your supplier and study the data sheets for the products you are going to use.
You can go to the PPG site and get the data sheets for the above, very helpful.
I primed the tractor in sections because I was getting flash rust in areas before I could get the whole tractor clean and primed. The draw back with that is that you have to scuff it and apply another coat of epoxy before the final color coats.
Paint and primers and other chemicals will probably cost $800 or more.
[b:12b1b43c0f]What type of gun did I use?[/b:12b1b43c0f]
The guns I have used are Trades Pro by ALLTRADE. Not expensive, I got them at a yard sale. Probably a step above the guns available at Harbor Freight. The one I use for epoxy has a 1.7mm tip and the gun for color and high build primer has a 1.4mm tip.
There are videos available for setting up the gun on line and information on this forum. It is important to get the gun set up right.
[b:12b1b43c0f]What type of air compressor and water separators do I have?[/b:12b1b43c0f]
I have a Coleman Powermate compressor rated at 10.3 CFM at 90 PSI it is 7 peak horsepower and 220 volts on a 60 gallon tank. . It works well for using air grinders for cleaning and for the paint guns.
I have about 30 foot of ½ inch copper tubing coming out of the compressor before it goes to the first water separator. There are some vertical drops that assembly I have bleeder valves that I crack when I am painting. It is just a ½ inch separator I got at Harbor Freight. It comes out of that separator thru a 50 foot hose, on a hose reel, to another separator that I have dedicated for spray painting. I then come off of that separator thru a 50 foot hose dedicated for spray painting only. Since I have this setup I have not gotten any water at the second separator while painting.
When using it a lot in humid weather I have gotten moisture thru to the air tools I was using to prep the metal. I drain the tank on a regular basis especially in humid weather.
There is a lot of information on this web site from guys who have painted many tractors and cars and trucks. I have not had much luck searching the archives with this sites search tools but I have found that by adding the words yesterdays tractor after the information I am searching for really helps.
An example being type "Omni MTK yesterdays tractor" in search engine brings up a lot of stuff from this site.
You can use the search engine on the forum to look at all post by individuals i.e." TJ in KY "it works pretty good.
This picture is after I did all mechanical work and put about 8 hours on it to check my mechanical work. As you can see I was dealing with mostly rust on my tractor. Then I tore it back apart and cleaned, cleaned, cleaned.
Hope this helps Good luck. Tom
