Ford 1520 Hydraulic problem.

acro

New User
My 1520 has been slowly loosing hydraulic performance over the past few years. When it was new to me, it would lift the loader arms - and anything attached to them at an idle, basically. I usually leave my grader blade with about 150lb of weight on the tractor all the time. Over the past couple of years, I've had to rev the engine a bit to get the arms to raise. well, the other day, they stopped raising at all.

They will hold position if I help them up by hand. I removed the weights and it did not really help enough to work around the problem. I rev the engine hard and get a few inches of lift.

I suspect its my pump, as the fluid level is fine. Is there a procedure to check pressures somewhere? The pump is some variation of a KP05 and rated pressure is 2130psi

What about the relief valve? I see its not adjustable. Maybe I'll pull it and look it over.

Is there are preferred source amongst the members here? The YT store? It doesn't look like my pump.


Thanks
 
Last edited:
My 1520 has been slowly loosing hydraulic performance over the past few years. When it was new to me, it would lift the loader arms - and anything attached to them at an idle, basically. I usually leave my grader blade with about 150lb of weight on the tractor all the time. Over the past couple of years, I've had to rev the engine a bit to get the arms to raise. well, the other day, they stopped raising at all.

They will hold position if I help them up by hand. I removed the weights and it did not really help enough to work around the problem. I rev the engine hard and get a few inches of lift.

I suspect its my pump, as the fluid level is fine. Is there a procedure to check pressures somewhere? The pump is some variation of a KP05 and rated pressure is 2130psi

What about the relief valve? I see its not adjustable. Maybe I'll pull it and look it over.

Is there are preferred source amongst the members here? The YT store? It doesn't look like my pump.


Thanks
My money is on the pump. Ideally you would test pump output pressire ahead of the relief for a definitive diagnosis. That requires a pressure gauge and needle valve test setup. Not expensive to put the test gear together but finding the proper point to connect it requires some knowledge of the tractor plumbing. Post a picture of the loader connections to the tractor hydraulics. Probably two or possibly three hoses going into a block on the side of the engine

Dan
 
Last edited:
I checked the relief. Everything seemed in order there.

20240623_160735.jpg



This valve is where I connected some lines for an implement. There's a rotary selector behind them that i use when i run my log splitter. I tried moving it to different positions, but it didn't improve my condition.
the pump output goes directly to the block. It's been so long since I connected them, I'm not sure which port is what now. And there's a 3rd port too.
20240623_160741.jpg
 
I checked the relief. Everything seemed in order there.

View attachment 76323


This valve is where I connected some lines for an implement. There's a rotary selector behind them that i use when i run my log splitter. I tried moving it to different positions, but it didn't improve my condition.
the pump output goes directly to the block. It's been so long since I connected them, I'm not sure which port is what now. And there's a 3rd port too.
View attachment 76324
That block has three ports

P - is the pump pressure outlet for an auxiliary implememt

N - Is neutral or pressure beyond return from your implement and powers the 3pt.

T - tank rreturn from your implement.

When no implement is attached to P and N pump pressure goes straight througjh the block to the 3pt via the other hard line.

When you connect an implement (e.g. loader) you turn the selector valve to divert fliow out P and flow must be returned to N where it continues to the 3pt as above. The selector valve should stay in that position as long as the implement is attached. If the implement is disconnected the vslve must be switchef back to the straight through position.

So what is hooked to those two hoses? Hopefully it is your loader valve.

And where Is the relief valve you checked?

Dan
 
Last edited:
The relief valve is on the underside of that block. The spring and o ring were fine, and no dirt or trash.

I'm out of town for a few days, but will be working on this when I get back. I'll look closer for the connection markings.

As far as what's hooked to them? I have a couple of wet line connections that I use in conjunction with a valve for a hydraulic top link cylinder, or a log splitter.

I don't always use the hydraulic top link, so there's nothing hooked to them currently. And when I use the log splutter, I have to rotate the selector on that block.
 
Last edited:
The relief valve is on the underside of that block.

I'm out of town for a few days, but will be working on this when I get back.

As far as what's hooked to them? I have a couple of wet line connections that I use in conjunction with a valve for a hydraulic top link cylinder, or a log splitter.

I don't always use the hydraulic top link, so there's nothing hooked to them currently.
I am happy to hear there is a releif in that block. That block should be used to connect your loader to the tractor as shown below,. You do have a loader on the tractor don't you?

If there is nothing hooked to those hoses the diverter needs to be in the straight through position for the 3pt to work.

You need to familiarize yourself with the operation of that block. Misconnecting it can shorten the life span of your pump and I fear that may be the case already.


Dan



Untitled.png
 
First thing to do is change your suction filter.
Excellent suggestion and it would be nice if that is the problem.

But looking at his pictures of tje hydrauluc outlet block and the parts diagram it looks like his pump is looped/teed to tank. That makes me suspicious.

After rereading the original post and looking at the pictures I dont think there is any loader on that tractor. I think he means 3pt lift arms.

Lots of confusion with what is and isn't connected to and proper use of the outlet block. We need to see the other end of those two hoses.

Dan
 
Last edited:
I am happy to hear there is a releif in that block. That block should be used to connect your loader to the tractor as shown below,. You do have a loader on the tractor don't you?

If there is nothing hooked to those hoses the diverter needs to be in the straight through position for the 3pt to work.

You need to familiarize yourself with the operation of that block. Misconnecting it can shorten the life span of your pump and I fear that may be the case already.


Dan



View attachment 76338
No loader in my case. Perhaps your right about the operation of that valve. I don't remember any position indicator on the rotary selector. It was a bit of hit/miss.

When I have the top link cylinder, I had to operate the lift arms in conjunction with the lever for the cylinder. Had something to do with open/closed center I think. Previously, certain conditions I could definitely hear it putting a load on the engine if the rotary wasn't in the right spot.

Now, no change as I rotate it.
 
No loader in my case. Perhaps your right about the operation of that valve. I don't remember any position indicator on the rotary selector. It was a bit of hit/miss.

When I have the top link cylinder, I had to operate the lift arms in conjunction with the lever for the cylinder. Had something to do with open/closed center I think. Previously, certain conditions I could definitely hear it putting a load on the engine if the rotary wasn't in the right spot.

Now, no change as I rotate it.
Your confirming my suspicions. Your remote valve is not plumbed properly and has been deadheading the pump against the relief. That wont kill the pump right out but it can over years of use.

That may not be the immediate problem and you need to check the filter and confirm the pump is getting oil. Then its very simple to pressure test the pump.

Once you confirm thr pump is producing pressure we can fix the plumbing on the remote so that everything works independently and you never have to touch that selector valve.

Dan
 
Excellent suggestion and it would be nice if that is the problem.

But looking at his pictures of tje hydrauluc outlet block and the parts diagram it looks like his pump is looped/teed to tank. That makes me suspicious.

After rereading the original post and looking at the pictures I dont think there is any loader on that tractor. I think he means 3pt lift arms.

Lots of confusion with what is and isn't connected to and proper use of the outlet block. We need to see the other end of those two hoses.

Dan
I'll report later in the week, as I'm working from memory and it's been years since I hooked everything up. And it was somewhat trial and error then.

I had/have a simple hydraulic cylinder operated by a spring return valve. But nothing is currently hooked up other than the valve which I believe is open center.
 
Your confirming my suspicions. Your remote valve is not plumbed properly and has been deadheading the pump against the relief. That wont kill the pump right out but it can over years of use.

That may not be the immediate problem and you need to check the filter and confirm the pump is getting oil. Then its very simple to pressure test the pump.

Once you confirm thr pump is producing pressure we can fix the plumbing on the remote so that everything works independently and you never have to touch that selector valve.

Dan
I never left it in the deadhead condition while in operation.

But possible that the little rotary selector was slightly out of position. But not fully. For sure.

Looking forward to later this week
 
I'll report later in the week, as I'm working from memory and it's been years since I hooked everything up. And it was somewhat trial and error then.

I had/have a simple hydraulic cylinder operated by a spring return valve. But nothing is currently hooked up other than the valve which I believe is open center.
If thats the case and you have the hoses connected as I think you do that may well be your problem It will render your 3pt inoperable regardless of the position of the selector valve.

Your entire hydraulic system is open center and all valves have to be daisy chained using the power beyond (aka neutral) circuit to work properly.

Dan
 
Last edited:
The port you are using for the return from your added valve is the tank port which is why you have to operate the valve and three point together when using the hydraulic top link. That lower connection should be moved to the top rear port and the lower port plugged. With it plumbed correctly you will not need to turn the screw for different operations as oil will come out of the block and pass through the open center valve and back to the block to feed the three point hitch. The lower tank port in the block is used when you have a valve with power beyond.
 
The port you are using for the return from your added valve is the tank port which is why you have to operate the valve and three point together when using the hydraulic top link. That lower connection should be moved to the top rear port and the lower port plugged. With it plumbed correctly you will not need to turn the screw for different operations as oil will come out of the block and pass through the open center valve and back to the block to feed the three point hitch. The lower tank port in the block is used when you have a valve with power beyond.
Mark,

You might also want to provide some guidance on the correct position of the selector valve and how to tell which position it is in. He seems to be unsure of that as well.

Dan
 
Mark,

You might also want to provide some guidance on thr correct position of the selector valve and how to tell which position it is in. He seems to be unsure of that as well.

Dan
Unfortunately Dan I don't remember that off the top of head. It will be easy to tell though as one way he hill have power to the added valve and the other way he won.t. I will look it up tomorrow when I go to work.
 
Unfortunately Dan I don't remember that off the top of head. It will be easy to tell though as one way he hill have power to the added valve and the other way he won.t. I will look it up tomorrow when I go to work.
This is pretty fundamental to operating the tractor. Is it not described in the operator's manual?

Have we also concluded the pump is undamaged and working properly?

Dan
 
This is pretty fundamental to operating the tractor. Is it not described in the operator's manual?

Have we also concluded the pump is undamaged and working properly?

Dan
Well currently, I've forgotten where I put my manuals - including service 😂

No, we have not concluded anything about the pump. Other than a slow degradation over time of the lift arm performance. Then going from that functionality to almost nothing thevsame day. Worked in the morning. Tractor sat a few hours, then wouldn't lift arms when I started it back up.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top