Ford 1700 engine labours when clutch pushed in

[pawlukja]

I just installed a new clutch, pressure plate, and bearings in my ford 1700. It worked for about 5 minutes and then wouldn't engage anymore. Also the engine labours when the clutch was engaged. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Welding man]

Single stage or 2 stage. You didn't put the disc in backwards,did you? Engaged or
disengaged,petal up or down, in or out of gear.

 

[pawlukja]

Sorry I forgot to mention it's a single stage clutch. Fairly certain I put the disc in properly. When I push the pedal down the engine labours whether it's in gear or not. I adjusted the linkage so the rod can't be turned in anymore and the clutch now barley grabs and the engine still labours. Maybe I did screw up and put the disc in wrong?

 

[Steve@Advance]

If the engine slows when you push the pedal down, that sounds like a seized release bearing.

Any squealing, grinding feel in the pedal?

If the disc is in backward, the clutch will not release.

 

[pawlukja]

Put a new release bearing in it. Also confused why I had to shorten the linkage all the way for the clutch to engage.

 

[Janicholson]

Engage means driving the rear wheels, disengaged means pedal pushed in and free to shift gears. So a reversed driven disk
(friction disk) if put in backwards can be substantially thicker due to interference with the flywheel. This creates a situation in
which the fingers of the clutch push way in as the pressure plate is tightened to the flywheel. From what I see on line, the
clutch rod from pedal to lever on the outside of the housing pulls to disengage the clutch. Shortening it would push the throwout
bearing closer to the "too far forward" fingers. Usually the result is a disk that has its torsion springs get smashed into the
flywheel bolts. This causes failure to operate. Jim

 

[pawlukja]

(quoted from post at 00:06:21 10/09/17) Engage means driving the rear wheels, disengaged means pedal pushed in and free to shift gears. So a reversed driven disk
(friction disk) if put in backwards can be substantially thicker due to interference with the flywheel. This creates a situation in
which the fingers of the clutch push way in as the pressure plate is tightened to the flywheel. From what I see on line, the
clutch rod from pedal to lever on the outside of the housing pulls to disengage the clutch. Shortening it would push the throwout
bearing closer to the "too far forward" fingers. Usually the result is a disk that has its torsion springs get smashed into the
flywheel bolts. This causes failure to operate. Jim

Thanks Jim.

Ok let try and explain a little better sorry but I don't know all the technical talk.
I put in a new single stage clutch kit....both bearings...clutch plate....and pressure plate. Put the tractor back together and the clutch worked fine for about 7 or so pushes. Then I was unable to shift gears. I shortened the clutch rod and tried again. I was able to shift gears but had to push extremely hard on the clutch. When I look in the inspection hole on the side I can see the release bearing moving back and forth. Even from the first time I pushed the new clutch in, the tractor would start to labour.

The old release bearing was absolutely shot.....the fingers on the pressure plate were bad and everything else looked fine.

 

[Janicholson]

WHen replacing a clutch, it is common the adjust the linkage to get the correct freeplay. (usually about an inch to 1.5 inches of
pedal motion before feeling the throwout bearing begin to push the fingers) As a clutch wears, the disk gets thinner and thinner.
During its life the adjustment on a tractor with a pull rod linkage will need to have the rod length extended to keep the freeplay
correct. A new correct clutch installed with the torsion springs toward the rear, will need the rod shortened to match the thicker
new disk, but not to the limits of adjustment. That is really all I have to offer as I have never been inside one of those. Jim

 

[JD Seller]

The engine laboring is because the throw out bearing is pushing against the pressure plate so hard it is shoving the crankshaft forward against the trust bearings. DO not run it longer like this. You can easily trash the trust bearings on the crankshaft by doing that. Split it and check everything out again.

I think one or two thing could be wrong:
1) You put the clutch plate/disk in backwards. Most clutch disk have to be put in correctly as the center hub will interfere if pout in wrong. (I really think this is not the issue. This would not have worked right at any time if installed backwards)

2) The "NEW" pressure plated failed. It is not common but it can and does happen. I have had 2-3 fail in a short time in my life time. I really think this is your trouble. You say it pushes really hard now. That has to be the pressure plated.

 

[pawlukja]

(reply to post at 01:32:05 10/09/17)

Can you tell from these pictures which way the clutch plate is suppose to be installed? Does the neck (piece extending out) go towards the flywheel or the pressure plate?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

The neck piece (hub) should point away from the flywheel. If that picture is accurate, the disk is sprung and should be replaced.

 

[pawlukja]

(quoted from post at 02:22:54 10/09/17) The neck piece (hub) should point away from the flywheel. If that picture is accurate, the disk is sprung and should be replaced.

Thanks. This is a picture of the old plate that I replaced. Just used it for reference. I'm positive I put the new one in the right way.

 

[JimB2]

Hi, was there any kind of shipping clips or locking screws on the pressure plate that has to be removed after installation?
I know that on IH pressure plates there is a "U" shaped clips that have to be removed from the pressure plate finger springs after installation.

JimB

 

[pawlukja]

(quoted from post at 01:32:05 10/09/17) The engine laboring is because the throw out bearing is pushing against the pressure plate so hard it is shoving the crankshaft forward against the trust bearings. DO not run it longer like this. You can easily trash the trust bearings on the crankshaft by doing that. Split it and check everything out again.

I think one or two thing could be wrong:
1) You put the clutch plate/disk in backwards. Most clutch disk have to be put in correctly as the center hub will interfere if pout in wrong. (I really think this is not the issue. This would not have worked right at any time if installed backwards)

2) The "NEW" pressure plated failed. It is not common but it can and does happen. I have had 2-3 fail in a short time in my life time. I really think this is your trouble. You say it pushes really hard now. That has to be the pressure plated.

Ya I parked it and don't want to run it until I figure it out.

 

[pawlukja]

(quoted from post at 02:56:26 10/09/17) Hi, was there any kind of shipping clips or locking screws on the pressure plate that has to be removed after installation?
I know that on IH pressure plates there is a "U" shaped clips that have to be removed from the pressure plate finger springs after installation.

JimB

None that I noitied but I'm going to rip it apart again tomorrow and check everything out again.

 

[pawlukja]

Update to my clutch problem. There was the tiniest bur on the release bearing carrier that prevented it from sliding into the correct place (far enough back towards the clutch fork). Once I filled the burr down, everything went into place as it should and the clutch is working just fine. However when I put everything back together, the tractor wouldn't start and my oil pressure light was on. After some reading on here I thought I had a bad oil sending unit. Then with some more reading, I realized I had the wires for the glow plugs and the sending unit crossed. I quickly switched the wires and problem solved. Thank you to everyone for all of the advice on my clutch problem and for all of the other posts on this site.

 

[ptfarmer]

You are lucky, I ran across the same problem with the engine laboring when the clutch was pushed. I checked the endplay of the crankshaft, and it moved .310" (about 5/16") instead of .004" - 012". Dropped the oil pan, and the thrust bearings where laying in the bottom of the oil pan. Oddly enough it didn't hurt the block where the thrust bearings went, but it ruined the crankshaft.

 

[pawlukja]

(quoted from post at 04:00:20 11/09/17) You are lucky, I ran across the same problem with the engine laboring when the clutch was pushed. I checked the endplay of the crankshaft, and it moved .310" (about 5/16") instead of .004" - 012". Dropped the oil pan, and the thrust bearings where laying in the bottom of the oil pan. Oddly enough it didn't hurt the block where the thrust bearings went, but it ruined the crankshaft.

VERY lucky indeed.