Ford 2000 compression test

I just completed another compression test, with engine warm and throttle open 100% the cylinders were all 90 psi. The engine runs pretty good except for some black smoke and pops a little like the valves need grinding. I think the carb is the wrong one for this tractor because the tag shows E3NN AC .....13871D....12 85. I think this is from a 1980's tractor a 1960's letter should start with a C? Do you think this carb will work with some adjustment/jets changed? I included a picture of the carb on my last post. As far as the compression ...leave it alone...put a solvent/penetrating oil in the cylinders and hope its just sticky rings? thanks again for oyur help Rick
 
I'm no holley expert.. but looks like a zenith to me.

soundguy
a7873.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 12:45:31 12/16/09) I just completed another compression test, with engine warm and throttle open 100% the cylinders were all 90 psi. The engine runs pretty good except for some black smoke and pops a little like the valves need grinding.

As far as the compression ...leave it alone...put a solvent/penetrating oil in the cylinders and hope its just sticky rings? thanks again for oyur help Rick

Your compression is really fairly low. Not a good sign. There is one more compression related test to do. Remove all the spark plugs and put in 2 oz of motor oil in each cylinder. Hand rotate the engine a full 360 to ensure that there isn't a hydrolock (chamber volume is 70cc or so - so it's unlikely that it's going to happen, but checking by hand rotating is a smart habit to have and ALWAYS follow).

Then check the compression with the cylinders "wet". If it is about the same, the valves are either out of adjustment or worn and need some love. If the compression jumps up to 140 psi or so, the valves are great but the rings are worn (or sticking). More likely the compression will jump up from 90 to 105-110 psi showing that the rings are worn and the valves are also worn or out of adjustment.

Depending on the result, adjust the valves to 0.015" hot lash (0.018 cold). If you want to, adding 2 oz 50-50 ATF and diesel to each cylinder twice a day for a week and HAND rotating the engine forwards and back several times to distribute the solution will help clean and free the rings.

Definitely check, but it's likely the engine is in need of rings, bearings and a valve grind. I would check that the timing is correct and the timing advance is working in the distributor before planning on a rebuild.

jb
 
It is a Zenith alright. I wonder why the choke cable is on the wrong side. Outside vs inside Might have been for a different application.
What is the brass nozzle looking thing - just below the flange on the back side? Maybe where the vacuum line hooked up for a different engine?
Is that open? Big vaccuum leak and bad runner if it is. I don't know much about carbs sorry to say.
I can say that a replacement Zenith is about $350 so you have plenty of reason to try to make that one work. ie jets etc.
I sure can't hurt to put something like Marvel Mystery Oil down the SP holes to see if that would free up any stuck rings. Keep in mind it will take about 3/8 cup of oil in each bore as those are some seriously deep dished pistons.

P1010005-4.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:27:53 12/16/09) Keep in mind it will take about 3/8 cup of oil in each bore as those are some seriously deep dished pistons.

<img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/Ultradog/P1010005-4.jpg">


Isn't that a piston from a diesel engine?
 
I agree.. for that application that arm is reversed side to side from the oem zenith replacement.. i wondered about that nozzle as well.

soundguy
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top