Ford 2000 running terrible

[Lefty53]

I have frequented this site for several years, and have nearly always been able to find an answer. But not this time: tractor is a 1962 or '63 2000 4 cyl. 5 speed. Has been a very reliable tractor especially since I converted to 12 volts a few years ago. I only use this tractor to care for my 400' driveway (fairly bad hill), dressing gravel in summer, snow in winter. probably doesn't see 20 hours most years. This problem has come on fairly gradually over several months, but now is not usable at all.
starts fairly easily, runs reasonable at low rpm, but increase rpm's at all it runs very rough, it is very erratic, not like a simple cylinder miss. backfires through exhaust, sometime so loud it hurts your ears. Not enough power to even move the tractor at all. I have checked spark, it is very good, nice blue spark at least 1/4". Gas is a different story I think. Removing plug in bottom of carb, I got 1 cup of gas in 1 minute. That does'nt seem like enough. I will say here that pulling choke while running makes no difference at all in the symptoms. This thing has me pulling out my hair! I sure hope one of you well experienced guys here can help me out. I am not really a tractor hobbiest, but have always enjoyed the interesting old tractor stories and issues seen here, and definitely realize this is one of the few places for help with the old iron. I am an old shadetree mechanic, and have typically been able to do ok with my tractor, epecially since my use is so light. Thanks to all who may help me here.
Lefty
.

 

[Lynn Patrick]

Sounds just like a couple of mine acted a while back. Would start & run good until you put them to a little load. Both were fixed by new plugs. So many parts today are either bad right out of the box or fail way too soon. I get the best service w/NGK3112's.

 

[Lefty53]

Thanks Lynn. Did yours also have the backfiring? This really doesn't seem like a spark plug issue, but I will certainly try that. It's single digits here for a couple of days so will wait to warm up first. I use this tractor so infrequently that I don't remember very well the time frame for maintenance work, so not sure how long since plugs were changed. Thanks also for the plug reccomendation.
Doug

 

[4020 tractor nut]

I had trouble years ago wiht a John Deere 4020. New plugs and electronic ignition fixed mine. Good luck!

 

[Lynn Patrick]

Backfiring. Spitting. Missing. & just miserable running! It would run great when tuning it, but act up as soon as I tried running a weed mower.

 

[Lefty53]

I will definitely get new plugs, but looks like it will be saturday before warm enough to work on it. I hope no more snow before I can get it to go, because I am paying to have my driveway plowed. Thanks
Doug

 

[mhankins]

I would replace the plug wires while you are at it.

 

[Lefty53]

The wires aren't that old, good copper, I will do plugs first. As I stated above, I'll not be doing anything until at least Saturday. Thanks.
Doug

 

[Lefty53]

I changed the spark plugs and there is no change. I also examined the plug wires and I'm fairly certain they are fine. This condition just does not seem to be the result of a cylinder or even multiple cylinders missing. I'm still not sure the amount of flow of gas is sufficient, but not sure if insufficient gas could cause this either. As I stated in my original post, I opened drain at bottom of carb and got 1 cup in 1 minute. Is that enough flow?
I have been running this tractor and formerly also a 9n, for nearly 30 years, and have never had an engine run like this. There is just something going on here that I am unable to find. I've dealt with insufficient fuel, inadequate spark, and have never had a symptom like this. I hope someone can give me some other possibilities. Again I want to say how much I appreciate the depth of knowledge and experience available on this site. Thanks to all!
Doug

 

[Jim.ME]

How do the contacts of the points look? What are they gapped at? How much play in the distributor shaft? Any signs of moisture in the cap or distributor?

 

[Lefty53]

Points are new, gapped at .025. No moisture in cap. What is the proper method to check the play in distributor shaft? I will need to check that.
Thanks.

 

[used red MN]

Points are new, gapped at .025. No moisture in cap. What is the proper method to check the play in distributor shaft? I will need to check that.
Thanks.

Seems odd to me that you have a post from March 2021 replying to someone else telling them you fixed the symptoms you are reporting on this tractor by changing the coil? Aside from that to address your current issue my first question would be have you tried replacing the condenser? Next suggestion would be jets or a passage possibly plugging in your carb.

 

[Btzj02]

Seems odd to me that you have a post from March 2021 replying to someone else telling them you fixed the symptoms you are reporting on this tractor by changing the coil? Aside from that to address your current issue my first question would be have you tried replacing the condenser? Next suggestion would be jets or a passage possibly plugging in your carb.

X2 on cleaning the carb passages.

 

[Welding man]

I have frequented this site for several years, and have nearly always been able to find an answer. But not this time: tractor is a 1962 or '63 2000 4 cyl. 5 speed. Has been a very reliable tractor especially since I converted to 12 volts a few years ago. I only use this tractor to care for my 400' driveway (fairly bad hill), dressing gravel in summer, snow in winter. probably doesn't see 20 hours most years. This problem has come on fairly gradually over several months, but now is not usable at all.
starts fairly easily, runs reasonable at low rpm, but increase rpm's at all it runs very rough, it is very erratic, not like a simple cylinder miss. backfires through exhaust, sometime so loud it hurts your ears. Not enough power to even move the tractor at all. I have checked spark, it is very good, nice blue spark at least 1/4". Gas is a different story I think. Removing plug in bottom of carb, I got 1 cup of gas in 1 minute. That does'nt seem like enough. I will say here that pulling choke while running makes no difference at all in the symptoms. This thing has me pulling out my hair! I sure hope one of you well experienced guys here can help me out. I am not really a tractor hobbiest, but have always enjoyed the interesting old tractor stories and issues seen here, and definitely realize this is one of the few places for help with the old iron. I am an old shadetree mechanic, and have typically been able to do ok with my tractor, epecially since my use is so light. Thanks to all who may help me here.
Lefty
.

No more than you use the tractor and it sits a long time between uses, you could have a sticking valve. Backfiring is usually an indication of it firing with a valve open. Time for a compression test. Sounds like you are running on 3 cyls. When right the Red Tiger is a very smooth running engine. I have a 1964 2000.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I have frequented this site for several years, and have nearly always been able to find an answer. But not this time: tractor is a 1962 or '63 2000 4 cyl. 5 speed. Has been a very reliable tractor especially since I converted to 12 volts a few years ago. I only use this tractor to care for my 400' driveway (fairly bad hill), dressing gravel in summer, snow in winter. probably doesn't see 20 hours most years. This problem has come on fairly gradually over several months, but now is not usable at all.
starts fairly easily, runs reasonable at low rpm, but increase rpm's at all it runs very rough, it is very erratic, not like a simple cylinder miss. backfires through exhaust, sometime so loud it hurts your ears. Not enough power to even move the tractor at all. I have checked spark, it is very good, nice blue spark at least 1/4". Gas is a different story I think. Removing plug in bottom of carb, I got 1 cup of gas in 1 minute. That does'nt seem like enough. I will say here that pulling choke while running makes no difference at all in the symptoms. This thing has me pulling out my hair! I sure hope one of you well experienced guys here can help me out. I am not really a tractor hobbiest, but have always enjoyed the interesting old tractor stories and issues seen here, and definitely realize this is one of the few places for help with the old iron. I am an old shadetree mechanic, and have typically been able to do ok with my tractor, epecially since my use is so light. Thanks to all who may help me here.
Lefty
.

If its acting up off idle while its setting still you can eliminate ignition/fuel systems ratter easily no guess needed. Invest in a spark checker wire it up between a plug wire and a spark plug and watch the event it should be a constant event that does not change.

If that checks OK without a doubt remove the air inlet tube to the carb and induce fuel I use brake clean are propane. If adding fuel clears it up you have a fuel issue. Don't let anyone tell you different if they do they are as lost as you. Don't make it harder than it is.

YMMV proceed with caution : )... Test don't guess a silver bullet that I know folks are looking for don't excess. : (

 

[6 SLY PLACE]

Maybe the centrifugal weight in a distributor, not advancing

 

[SkipperII]

We were having a problem with our '41 Ford flathead firetruck, one exhaust valve was sticking. One of our other commissioners said he had that problem with his 8n, because it was only used during haying season. He said to put a pint of Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel tank, and a cup in the engine oil. We did, and it freed up within fifteen minutes, and hasn't been a problem since.

 

[Lefty53]

used red: I had actually forgotten about that time you refer to in 2021, believe it or not. That time the new coil did in fact resolve the issue. Whatever the reason, this time it did not fix it. Yes, new condenser. I have looked at carb, probably am going to need to dig in a little deeper there. What is method to clean carb passages? Should I take to have it professionally cleaned?
Welding man: I have wondered about a sticking valve, and will do a compression test when I have opportunity. I have a busy week or two ahead, so not sure when that will be.
6 sly: how to check that advance? Thanks everyone.
Doug

 

[Lefty53]

Hobo: I have tested spark and had a nice blue spark jump 1/4" or more, that is what i have always heard to be sufficient. Tested at coil tower and from cap towers. Thank you
Doug

 

[Mad Farmer]

Is the fuel free of water? Good to check carb flow into a glass jar and look for water/crud.