Ford 3000 Brake Failure

Rocky3000

New User
Tractor is Ford 3000 3 cylinder 1966 Gas 4 Speed and have lost use of the brakes to the point it is no longer safe to drive it. I first noticed the screwdriver came back oily when trying to adjust the right brake. Thereafter I could push the brake pedals all the way down and still not control the tractor particularly on an incline. I removed the right rear tire and brake drum as shown in the images below. It is full of oil, likely coming from a bad seal in the right rear axle. I need advice on how to tear it down and what to replace.
 

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I changed out the seals in my 2000 from the same problem. It's quite a job to get the hub and bearing off the shaft. It will either have a shrink collar or locking nut to retain the bearing. I&T manual has good instructions. I made up a puller similar to the one shown in the manual. If it's a shrink collar you have to drill and split it and get new collars. Nut should be replaced but a dealer told me they can be reused if you're careful getting it off. Two seals in each side. Dealer sent me the wrong seals so I have a set that may fit yours. The bearings are greased packed but if the inner seal leaks fluid from the rear end can get through and dilute the grease.
 
I have made a few post on the subject, when YT upgraded I can not find the post. IMHO don't chance fudge'n up an axle buy a new nut it will start and spin right on like it spose to.... Life will be good.




The axle nut removing and torquing it back up is a challenge as well as separating the hub from the axle. Search this then decide if you are up to the task.

Up next the brake cross shaft seals are leaking, while doing a axle seal job it’s a good time to go get’em
 
Mike and Hobo thank you both for your comments. I have the old brake shoes removed and currently trying to remove the right axle. I have it loose enough that I can wiggle it by hand but the actuator appears to be preventing complete removal. How would I remove the actuator or is there some trick to leaving it in place?
 

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I don't remember having a problem with the actuator. Looks like turning it 90 degrees will let it slip out. Or maybe the inner end slips out of the socket. As I understood the manual I should have had nuts on the bearing but mine had the shrink rings. Those need A LOT of torch to reach the 750 degrees called for. If you have nuts one way is to lay a wheel/tire down and set the axle in it upright to apply torque.
 
Turns out it's not difficult to remove the actuator; pull the pin out of the brake clevis and pull. It comes right out of the tractor. I noticed that the guys in the video did not replace the bearing; they just packed it with grease. I think we have to consider that that bearing has lasted for sixty years in my case (tractor came off the line in January 1966). Is anything that we can buy today going to be made as well? I can probably beat that nut up enough to get it off, but how am I going to torque down a new one? It's very tempting to clean it up, repack it with grease and call it a day (after I replace the defective seal). The problem is that video was shot in 2015 and we don't know what happened to that tractor in the interim.
 

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Yes, they only replaced the inner seal. Getting the axle out was the easy part. Since you had oil in he brakes it was leaking through because the grease was diluted. That's what mine did so I replaced both seals just to be sure.
 


You have come to far to haftarse it go get that outter seal that is where the oil leaked past it and messed up yout brakes. One drop of oil/grease will ruin the job.
 
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