Ford 3000 Generator Testing

86LG4T5

Member
I see people post steps on how to troubleshoot the generator and regulator, but they assume we know what the different poles are. My generator doesn't say which connector is field and which is armature. And I don't find it anywhere in my I&T manual either (paragraph 171). My generator has 2 wires connected to it. The connector blade on the left is small. The connector blade on the right is big. Which is which? If I jumper from the battery + to the one on the right the wire gets hot real fast. If I jumper from the battery + to both of them at the same time the generator spins.
 
Fat lug is armature (D = Dynamo).
Skinny lug is field (F = Field).

D lug is were the juice comes out, and goes through a wire to "D" lug on regulator.
F lug is for adjusting the amount of juice delivered, connects to "F" lug on regulator.
 
Thank you! I followed someone's instructions to put the belt back on and jumper from battery + to field while its running and see if that increases the voltage at the battery. It increases it to about 13.5 volts from 12.3. I think that test and the one that makes the generator spin verify that there's nothing wrong with the generator. Is there any steps to test the regulator or should I just replace it at this point?
 
You might try to open up the regulator and run some very fine sandpaper through the points on the field relay. Just to avoid any nasty surprise when removing cover- disconnect a battery post.
 
I'm new to the FORD Thousand Series, looking to buy a 3000 now, and have always been a FORD N-SERIES man, but with the latter, a non-charging issue is 99.98% due to incorrect wiring, and, not having a fan belt tensioning device attached, regardless if using a GEN & VR with 6V/POS GRN or an ALT and 12V NEG/GRN. Without proper fan belt tension the electrical system will never charge the battery; you're flogging a dead horse. I believe a 2000 uses the 12V GEN & a VR (Lucas???). There is a motoring test you can do on your own, but your trusty, local starter/GEN/ALT shop can test your GEN & VR, usually at no charge, pun unintended. I don't have my I&T FO-20 Manual yet but the I&T FO-4 Manual for the N-Series tractors has a GEN motoring test in it. You need to use the GEN, the battery, the AMMETER, and a jumper wire. Polarizing the GEN s important too but is probably not the problem. Let us know your results.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
The motoring test was successful. And also jumping the battery positive to the field terminal on the generator increased voltage at the battery to 13.5 volts. So I assumed it was the regulator and replaced it. But no, it still won't charge. The belt is plenty tight which I had to retighten since I did the motoring test. Not sure how it did that if it's a bad generator but I guess I'll replace the generator and then there won't be much left after that.

This post was edited by 86LG4T5 on 09/14/2022 at 02:22 pm.
 
(quoted from post at 17:05:40 09/14/22) The motoring test was successful. And also jumping the battery positive to the field terminal on the generator increased voltage at the battery to 13.5 volts. So I assumed it was the regulator and replaced it. But no, it still won't charge. The belt is plenty tight which I had to retighten since I did the motoring test. Not sure how it did that if it's a bad generator but I guess I'll replace the generator and then there won't be much left after that.

This post was edited by 86LG4T5 on 09/14/2022 at 02:22 pm.
eg must be well grounded for it to function properly. "New" VRs are questionable now days. Repeat your batt to Field test. If still good results, look to wiring & VR for troubles. A new gen at this point is a gamble.
 
Well what do you know I went out to re-test the field to battery connection and discovered the last time I did the test I didn't reconnect the field terminal at the generator. Bingo, it charges at 13.6 volts at 1000 RPM so I guess it was the regulator after all. Thanks for all your help!!
 
(quoted from post at 17:46:11 09/14/22) Well what do you know I went out to re-test the field to battery connection and discovered the last time I did the test I didn't reconnect the field terminal at the generator. Bingo, it charges at 13.6 volts at 1000 RPM so I guess it was the regulator after all. Thanks for all your help!!
ou are welcome and glad to see success.
 

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