Ford 3000 hydraulic problem continues

1974vette

Member
After I purchased the 3000 I took the 3 point top cover off and rebuilt it. I drained the rear and replaced the suction/return filters and replaced with new fluids. The 3 point would raise but was slow and jerky and the loader will slightly raise but then stops. I purchased a rebuilt hydraulic pump and the 3 point seems to work correctly. Raises smooth and quickly. Loader still won’t lift. Bucket tilt is really slow but does move. I am wondering if my remote valves are shot. The pressure relief valve under the tractor was out when I drained the fluid and looked good. So I am looking for advice as to move forward with this project. Thanks in advance
 
After I purchased the 3000 I took the 3 point top cover off and rebuilt it. I drained the rear and replaced the suction/return filters and replaced with new fluids. The 3 point would raise but was slow and jerky and the loader will slightly raise but then stops. I purchased a rebuilt hydraulic pump and the 3 point seems to work correctly. Raises smooth and quickly. Loader still won’t lift. Bucket tilt is really slow but does move. I am wondering if my remote valves are shot. The pressure relief valve under the tractor was out when I drained the fluid and looked good. So I am looking for advice as to move forward with this project. Thanks in advance
You are using tractor remotes to run the loader? If so any quick couplers on those lines?

TOH
 
I am using the remotes under the seat and it has quick couplers connected to the loader
You have a very simple system and easy to diagnose. Valves dont typucally fail in this fashion but couplers do. First disconnectv and reseat all couplers.

If that does not resolve the problem test pressure from the valve. Get a 3000 PSI pressure gauge and coupler tip for the gauge. A short 1/4" hose is optional but handy.

Test outlet pressure at each tractor side coupler. You should see tractor relief pressure. If you dont the tractor side coupler is likely bad. If you see good pressure but the function does not work one of the loader side couplers is likely bad

TOH
 
You have a very simple system and easy to diagnose. Valves dont typucally fail in this fashion but couplers do. First disconnectv and reseat all couplers.

If that does not resolve the problem test pressure from the valve. Get a 3000 PSI pressure gauge and coupler tip for the gauge. A short 1/4" hose is optional but handy.

Test outlet pressure at each tractor side coupler. You should see tractor relief pressure. If you dont the tractor side coupler is likely bad. If you see good pressure but the function does not work one of the loader side couplers is likely bad

TOH
I had the loader off while doing most of the work. I have pressure gauge I made to test my 930 case. I will give that a shot. The tractor valves seem to want to stick in the on position. Who knows how long previous owner ran tractor with valves locked in on position. I will check the couplers Thank you
 
I had the loader off while doing most of the work. I have pressure gauge I made to test my 930 case. I will give that a shot. The tractor valves seem to want to stick in the on position. Who knows how long previous owner ran tractor with valves locked in on position. I will check the couplers Thank you
If the valve(s) stick open you run the pump up against the relief valve. No big deal for the valve(s) which are simple spools but the pump and relief valve get stressed.

You should have no problem findimg the problem

TOH
 
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Are the tractor valves sticking or are they detented
Work the handles with the engine off, if the handles stick it the full travel position on every function it’s most likely a detented valve
In detent position you can bump the handle and it will pop back to center
If the loader is stalling and the lever is not popping back to center you have a pressure issue, it only takes around 1000-1200 psi to over power the detent
 
Yes they are detented valves and one wants to stick on very easily. The loader couplers seem to work ok I can manually depress the balls.
 

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There is no way to change remotes to single/double acting at least that I see. The couplers are on the loader frame. With tractor running the remote to control bucket tilt works and pops the detent back to off but lever pushing loader arms down work but not up. Going up the lever stays forward and very little loader movement
 

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The bucket up down works but is slow so I switched the hoses of the loader to the bucket valve and no movement so I do believe it’s a coupler issue.
 
The bucket up down works but is slow so I switched the hoses of the loader to the bucket valve and no movement so I do believe it’s a coupler issue.
Pressure tests provide reliable empirical data.

If you suffer from gaugeaphobia disconnect both hoses at the lift cylinder, put the ends in a bucket, and check for flow.

TOH
 
The bucket lifting the tractor and the detent kicking out sounds like the pump is making good pressure
There could be a coupler issue but that lever in the up position staying in detent is sounding like a loader cylinder is leaking internally
FYI that remote valve can be set to single action but presently is in double action position, turning that screw out puts that side of the valve in single action mode
I have that Tisco valve on a few of my Fords, they are nearly identical to the factory Ford valves and rarely ever give problems

Rig up a gauge to a coupler and test each connection, if all 4 show good pressure you need to figure out which cylinder is bypassing
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The bucket lifting the tractor and the detent kicking out sounds like the pump is making good pressure
There could be a coupler issue but that lever in the up position staying in detent is sounding like a loader cylinder is leaking internally
FYI that remote valve can be set to single action but presently is in double action position, turning that screw out puts that side of the valve in single action mode
I have that Tisco valve on a few of my Fords, they are nearly identical to the factory Ford valves and rarely ever give problems

Rig up a gauge to a coupler and test each connection, if all 4 show good pressure you need to figure out which cylinder is bypassing
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Thanks for the SA info. Thst rules out one of my concerns.

At this point I think I would disconnect the hoses at the lift cylinder and test pressure there. That tests the valve and both halves of the couplers.

If he has pressure at the cylinder and the loader still wont raise he can check for cylinder bypass by unpinning both rod ends and disconnecting the base end coupler. Then move the control valve to DOWN and if a cylinder is bypassing it will extend rather than retract.

TOH
 

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