Ford 3000 timing

Ben E

Member
I just recently rebuilt my 1974 ford 3000 (gas), I have followed the manual on how on the timing sequence, but when i hook up a timing light up and look at the flywheel it doesn't show the timing marks. It is running pretty good but I want to make sure the timing is spot on before i offical break it in. I have the timing light on #1 cylinder spark plug wire (cylinder closest to the fuel tank). Am I doing something wrong?
 
I dont remember, ill have to check tomorrow, im currently at work. But doesnt the flywheel only go on one way (with the bolt holes)?
 
I don't know what has all been done to that machine over the years but I'm guessing that at some point the distributor was pull out and placed back in a different position. Pull the spark plug out of the number one cylinder, place a cotton ball in the spark plug hole and roll the engine over by hand until the cotton ball blows out. Using an assistant you can see when the piston reaches TDC on that cylinder. Next pull your distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointed. Where the rotor is pointing will be the number one cylinder and you can change up your plug wires from there if need be. Once you do that with the timing light on the number one plug wire you should be able to see the timing marks come around and light up the timing light as you roll the engine over.
 
I believe this is the first rebuild this tractors been through. There was too much clearance between the piston and cylinder walls (I could physicly move them back n forth, crank bearing were wore down, metal from bearing in pans, I completely rebuilt the engine myself, stripped down to the block, had the crank ground, bored .030, cam was ok just new cam bearings, new valves, springs etc. So yes the distributor was pulled out, i also had the entire tractor sandblasted, then i primed and painted it. I will try out if the marks are there at tdc.
 
There was no marks visable when it was running with the timing light on #1 cylinder, i got the brightest timing light i could get. There are marks though ive seen them when ive rotated the engine
 
Did you disconnect the vacuum advance line and plug it before you checked with the light? Make sure the advance plate is free to move. When I first got into my 2000 somebody had put a stack of washers on the piston to lock it in place.
 
I just recently rebuilt my 1974 ford 3000 (gas), I have followed the manual on how on the timing sequence, but when i hook up a timing light up and look at the flywheel it doesn't show the timing marks. It is running pretty good but I want to make sure the timing is spot on before i offical break it in. I have the timing light on #1 cylinder spark plug wire (cylinder closest to the fuel tank). Am I doing something wrong?
YES, #1 is at the RADIATOR! Start at front, 1 - 2 - 3.
At least that is what I remember.
 
I don't know what has all been done to that machine over the years but I'm guessing that at some point the distributor was pull out and placed back in a different position. Pull the spark plug out of the number one cylinder, place a cotton ball in the spark plug hole and roll the engine over by hand until the cotton ball blows out. Using an assistant you can see when the piston reaches TDC on that cylinder. Next pull your distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointed. Where the rotor is pointing will be the number one cylinder and you can change up your plug wires from there if need be. Once you do that with the timing light on the number one plug wire you should be able to see the timing marks come around and light up the timing light as you roll the engine over.
IF ITS RUNNING GOOD.... dont pull the distribitor unless your know how to retime it.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dont make it worse. As others have said.. find tdc, and then clean the flywheel and paint the mark..
 
Did you put a little paint or chalk on the marks, makes it much easier to see. When you rotated the engine and found the marks was #1 at TDC and the rotor pointing at the #1 position of the cap?
 
Did you disconnect the vacuum advance line and plug it before you checked with the light? Make sure the advance plate is free to move. When I first got into my 2000 somebody had put a stack of washers on the piston to lock it in place.
I did see your post, I have a new distributor, its mechanical now, I have the vacuum blocked off at the intake now.
 
Ive been really busy, and its been really hot, I'm gonna try to do it as soon as i get home from work tonight at 2am when its not as hot. Just been exhausted after 10hrs outside working.
 
I checked it and made sure it was on tdc and i dont see any marks, the distributor is on number 1 cylinder also. Any reason why im not finding this? I know for sure the flywheel bolts are in the right holes, because theres only one way for them
 
Did you remove any of the timing gears on the front of the engine when you did the rebuild? If so, did you make sure that the timing marks were aligned properly on all 3 gears when you reinstalled them?
 
Did you remove any of the timing gears on the front of the engine when you did the rebuild? If so, did you make sure that the timing marks were aligned properly on all 3 gears when you reinstalled them?
Yes, i disassembled the whole engine completely to be bored and honed. I followed the service manual and matched the dots, I mean it runs good, really good, I will find the marks on the flywheel as i turn it over manually. Doesn't the camshaft determine the distributor? Wouldnt the engine not run correctly?
 
Yes, i disassembled the whole engine completely to be bored and honed. I followed the service manual and matched the dots, I mean it runs good, really good, I will find the marks on the flywheel as i turn it over manually. Doesn't the camshaft determine the distributor? Wouldnt the engine not run correctly?
The distributor can mesh into the camshaft anywhere. You have to put it in the right spot so the rotor points to the right place. Just put it in. If it's off put some rotating force on the shaft and pull it up gently till the gear disengages and rotate it one tooth till it drops in again and push it down. It will turn a bit as it goes in. Make sure you get the rotation direction correct.
 
The distributor can mesh into the camshaft anywhere. You have to put it in the right spot so the rotor points to the right place. Just put it in. If it's off put some rotating force on the shaft and pull it up gently till the gear disengages and rotate it one tooth till it drops in again and push it down. It will turn a bit as it goes in. Make sure you get the rotation direction correct.
Your right, it wouldnt matter, I followed the directions the manual says, it running good as you can see in the video, I just dont want to blow this thing up if its off a little. I have not assembled a engine from bareblock since getting my automotive degree. Its been 3 years of this tractor being apart. Do you think its timing is good enough by ear meaning I timed it by finding when it hit the highest rpm adjusting the distributor?
 
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Your right, it wouldnt matter, I followed the directions the manual says, it running good as you can see in the video, I just dont want to blow this thing up if its off a little. I have not assembled a engine from bareblock since getting my automotive degree. Its been 3 years of this tractor being apart. Do you think its timing is good enough by ear meaning I timed it by finding when it hit the highest rpm adjusting the distributor?
"Doesn't the camshaft determine the distributor? "
This was the question I meant to answer. I forgot you had replaced the distributor. I can only guess that it has a centrifugal advance. I'd think there's got to be a flywheel mark, you just haven't found it. My 2000 has a TDC mark and degrees from there to about 30 as I recall. Mine has a snowplow frame and I remember getting my head right against the block to look straight into the opening to see.
 
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