Ford 3000 timing

[Ben E]

It went together fine, i followed the directions the manual says, it running good as you can see in the video, I just dont want to blow this thing up if its off a little. I have not assembled a engine from bareblock since getting my automotive degree. Its been 3 years this tractors been apart. Do you think its timing is good enough by ear?

"Doesn't the camshaft determine the distributor? "
This was the question I meant to answer. I forgot you had replaced the distributor. I can only guess that it has a centrifugal advance. I'd think there's got to be a flywheel mark, you just haven't found it. My 2000 has a TDC mark and degrees from there to about 30 as I recall. Mine has a snowplow frame and I remember getting my head right against the block to look straight into the opening to see.

It does have a centrifual advance, I will find the timing marks and see where the pistons sits and where the distributor sits

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

It does have a centrifual advance, I will find the timing marks and see where the pistons sits and where the distributor sits

From there it's just a matter of static timing it. You probably only have a line and a "0" not TDC.

 

[Destroked 450]

The distributor can mesh into the camshaft anywhere. You have to put it in the right spot so the rotor points to the right place. Just put it in. If it's off put some rotating force on the shaft and pull it up gently till the gear disengages and rotate it one tooth till it drops in again and push it down. It will turn a bit as it goes in. Make sure you get the rotation direction correct.

Distributor doesn’t mech with the cam shaft on those tractors, it fist into an accessory drive driven by another gear that’s timed with the crank and cam gears

 

[sotxbill]

Your right, it wouldnt matter, I followed the directions the manual says, it running good as you can see in the video, I just dont want to blow this thing up if its off a little. I have not assembled a engine from bareblock since getting my automotive degree. Its been 3 years of this tractor being apart. Do you think its timing is good enough by ear meaning I timed it by finding when it hit the highest rpm adjusting the distributor?

Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance before you check the timing, and set the rpm at 600 to 650??? per the book? But it cant be too far off as its running well.

 

[Ben E]

Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance before you check the timing, and set the rpm at 600 to 650??? per the book? But it cant be too far off as its running well.

I said before its certrifual advance not vacuum advance. I replaced the vacuum distributor with a newer one

 

[Jim.ME]

I said before its certrifual advance not vacuum advance. I replaced the vacuum distributor with a newer one

Using a timing light is the correct way to finalize the timing. Your manual should give you the info to set the timing with a timing light. You eliminated the vacuum advance so you can ignore that part of the procedure.

 

[sotxbill]

Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance before you check the timing, and set the rpm at 600 to 650??? per the book? But it cant be too far off as its running well.

just set up a 2000 3 cyl.... timed it at 2 degrees btdc at 625 rpm, vacuum line removed and taped over to the carb...... per the manual... Afterwards.......hooked the vacuum back up..and it jumped up to around 17 degrees at a bit faster than the 625rpms... then I put it back up... to just over 700 rpm idle speed, which where I like to keep them as they start and warm up better there and arn't as ornery as they are at 600 rpm when cold. Plus I can just drop the clutch and idle around the yard at 700 when cold... Not so much at 600. with the stupid 4 speed trans..... And the gen light stays off... I will not get into the 3 ring circus about getting the dist cap off, setting the new points gap... finding out one of the new wires in the tuneup kit was bad along with one plug... DONT throw away your old parts... sometimes they are better than the new ones... So I ordered some ngk plugs to replace the new autocrap chinesium plugs.... Even the standard points were made in china......but the cardboard box the parts shipped in... was okay I guess.

 

[sotxbill]

Distributor doesn’t mech with the cam shaft on those tractors, it fist into an accessory drive driven by another gear that’s timed with the crank and cam gears

AS long as the cam and crank are timed correctly, I have not seen dots on the gears of distributor drive gears on any vehicle to line up.. so the fact the distributor runs off of the governor gear that is NOT timed, doesn't matter. The centrifugal governor doesnt need timing to work. You time the distributor when you stab in to the centrifugal governor assembly based on the crank timing.. unless I am missing something? I'll be timing the gas fuel pumps next along with the fan belts? Sorry.. got away here.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

just set up a 2000 3 cyl.... timed it at 2 degrees btdc at 625 rpm, vacuum line removed and taped over to the carb...... per the manual... Afterwards.......hooked the vacuum back up..and it jumped up to around 17 degrees at a bit faster than the 625rpms... then I put it back up... to just over 700 rpm idle speed, which where I like to keep them as they start and warm up better there and arn't as ornery as they are at 600 rpm when cold. Plus I can just drop the clutch and idle around the yard at 700 when cold... Not so much at 600. with the stupid 4 speed trans..... And the gen light stays off... I will not get into the 3 ring circus about getting the dist cap off, setting the new points gap... finding out one of the new wires in the tuneup kit was bad along with one plug... DONT throw away your old parts... sometimes they are better than the new ones... So I ordered some ngk plugs to replace the new autocrap chinesium plugs.... Even the standard points were made in china......but the cardboard box the parts shipped in... was okay I guess.

That's why I use nothing but Blue Streak points.