Ford 4500 Generator

[plowjockey]

We resurrected a 67' 4500 gas, this spring, that had been sitting in a barn for 7 years.

It charged fine all summer (about 40 hours running), but then the charge light started coming on unless the rpm went up and now is on all of the time.

I removed the generator cables, and shorted the two terminals, but measure less than 1v output.

Not sure what to do next, if it's shot, use the $11 rebuild kit, a $95 gen replacement, or a $300 Alternator conversion.

If I do the conversion, will it need a different regulator?

Any input appreciated.

 

[souNdguy]

motor test it.

slip belt off.

jump bat to field and arm.. does it spin? yes = should charge.. look at reg.

if she passes a motor test, full field her by applying bat to field when running, if no charge, then jump bat and arm as well, to bypass cutout.

post back

soundguy

 

[flyingace]

If you do an alt coversion, you can throw the regulator away. That function is built into
the alternator. I'm assuming because this is a 3 cylinder from 67, that the tach cable
is driven off the generator. If not, the conversion will be far less, maybe in the $125-150 range. If it is a gen-driven tach, you can buy an alt with a tach drive built it, but they are
expensive - this is your $300 quote. I just went the cheap route and live without the
tach and proof.

 

[daman]

I had my original gen rebuild by our local shop and it works and charges the battery fine.

 

[Ultradog MN]

It sounds odd to ask but does your tach work?
The tachs usually failed early on those models.
So I wouldn't spend $300 to buy a alternator conversion kit just to get the drive gear that runs the tach.
If you can make up a simple bracket for the alternator you could buy a 10 SI alternator at Napa, etc and wire it in yourself for under $50.
Then you wouldn't need a regulator.
This has been discussed more than once here and it all boils down to how important is having a working tach to you?
A new tach is going to cost you $150 making the whole process rather expensive.

Edit: hmmm, I meant to put this under Plowjockey's post not yours daman

 

[plowjockey]

It is an 3 cylinder and the tach does work. The TLB is in great shape, for it age, (needs painted) so I'd like to keep it as original as possible.

According to the maintenance records, the gen has only been rebuild once.

Going to retest and motor test the gen again, tomorrow.

 

[JF in MI]

Every several years the generator light comes on on my 4500. It always has been the contact points (3 sets of them) in the regulator. I just clean them with some fine sandpaper and it works fine for the next several years.

Jim

 

[daman]

I like things original and in working condition my tach has been flawless over the years no problems.

 

[plowjockey]

Do you remember about what it cost, to get the generator rebuilt?

I called an auto-electical place that can't quote a price, but charges $57/hr plus parts, for a rebuild. They want to check the regulator, also.

I can buy a replacemenet new, for well under $100.

 

[daman]

(quoted from post at 01:48:02 11/29/11) Do you remember about what it cost, to get the generator rebuilt?

I called an auto-electical place that can't quote a price, but charges $57/hr plus parts, for a rebuild. They want to check the regulator, also.

I can buy a replacemenet new, for well under $100.

Just checked my records $46 dollars for the rebuild,we have a local electrical shop here that specializes in alternators,starters,batteries that kind of stuff.

 

[plowjockey]

I considered getting the gen rebuilt (failed the motor test), but time is running out (too many other unfinished projects and we are 3 weeks away from Xmas)), so I just opted for an replacement.

I do have two questions, if someone can help.

Does the shaft for the tach drive need greased and will I still have to "polarize" the new generator, as per Ford repair manual instructions?

 

[daman]

not sure on what you mean shaft? but the polarizing yea i believe so you'll have to do.

 

[Anonymous-0]

There is a worm gear shaft, that sticks out the back of the genrator. The tach unit, that turns the tach cable, attaches over the shaft, whch likely contains another gear inside, that turns the rotation 90 degrees.

 

[daman]

Probably a good idea to grease that if you can get some in there.

 

[plowjockey]

Installed the replacement and energized. Gen light still comes on at low idle, but puts 13.7V out.

We'll see if the Chinese can build a better gen, than the British. The long screws that hold the gen together, were too long and hit the cooling fan. I had to grind them flush. I greased the tach cable mount.

We'll see how it goes.

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[daman]

well if your putting out 13.7 thats fine the light should not be coming on i believe thats what mine puts out too and i have no light,how low of idle do you have? mines around 7-750rpm,at higher idles i got over 14v what does your do?