Ford 5000 3 point stabilization

I have a 1967 ford 5000 and I bought a woodland mills PTO stump grinder the 28pro to run with this tractor to clear up some land I bought that was logged out. It works pretty well so far but I am looking for the best way to stabilize and reduce the sway of the arms. As of right now when I drop it down now into the ground there's probably 6-8 inch sway making it fairly hard to line up. I would like to minimize this down to a inch or less. What are my options?
I goggled these https://www.reliableaftermarketpart...r-kit-fits-ford-5000-7000-5600-6600-7600-7610
But how do they work do they go all the way up and down with the arms?
 
I have a 1967 ford 5000 and I bought a woodland mills PTO stump grinder the 28pro to run with this tractor to clear up some land I bought that was logged out. It works pretty well so far but I am looking for the best way to stabilize and reduce the sway of the arms. As of right now when I drop it down now into the ground there's probably 6-8 inch sway making it fairly hard to line up. I would like to minimize this down to a inch or less. What are my options?
I goggled these https://www.reliableaftermarketpart...r-kit-fits-ford-5000-7000-5600-6600-7600-7610
But how do they work do they go all the way up and down with the arms?
I you'd neet the LH side kit, as well.

MANY tractors used/use a similar system, and, yes, if made and installed correctly they should allow a full range of up and down movement of the 3-point arms.

tLXudOZ.jpeg


The photo above is of the more common turnbuckle setup, vs. the telescoping square tube setup you posted.
 
$165.00 pretty proud of those at 330.00 for a set. Another reason for no 3pt stuff. Just drop a pin and go. Set the lift points out enough on the grinder they can't sway much if you can. We never could get 3pt to not sway like a drunk on a ship in rough water.
 
I had a David brown 885 a long time ago. You don't want stabilizers like it had. They were simply a rod that threaded into a tube. tightly enough that I had to always fight them.
 
Had a 5600 that used a rigid flat bar. Had pivot point mounted under axles and fastened to pin near end of lift arm. Held 3 pt to within 1 to 2 inch sway.
 
I have a 1967 ford 5000 and I bought a woodland mills PTO stump grinder the 28pro to run with this tractor to clear up some land I bought that was logged out. It works pretty well so far but I am looking for the best way to stabilize and reduce the sway of the arms. As of right now when I drop it down now into the ground there's probably 6-8 inch sway making it fairly hard to line up. I would like to minimize this down to a inch or less. What are my options?
I goggled these https://www.reliableaftermarketpart...r-kit-fits-ford-5000-7000-5600-6600-7600-7610
But how do they work do they go all the way up and down with the arms?
That style is pricy but work really well, I have one on the right side of the 5600 and it works really well, I cheaper out and lurched one to try it out and just haven’t purchased one for the other side
Only time 3 point is used on that tractor now is when moving or feeding round bales
The 6610 came factory with the adjustable bars, I keep them pined out wide so the lift arms don't swing in and hit the baler or bat wings tongue or pto shaft
I’d like to have them on all my tractors but that would get beyond pricey
My Farmtrac has the turn buckle style with inner stay chains, that works well as long as the turn buckle doesn’t freeze up from non use
 
Do you have the brackets that are below the fenders below the axle, as several of the pictures show? Most tractors had them from the factory.

I picked up the original straps that would have come with the tractor at an old tractor flea market for $60 for the pair. Two holes on one end, a hole on the other end, so it adjusts to cat 1 or cat 2 spacing. Probably came with your tractor, but they are easily misplaced or forgotten as the tractor changes hands over the years.

Paul
 
Do you have the brackets that are below the fenders below the axle, as several of the pictures show? Most tractors had them from the factory.

I picked up the original straps that would have come with the tractor at an old tractor flea market for $60 for the pair. Two holes on one end, a hole on the other end, so it adjusts to cat 1 or cat 2 spacing. Probably came with your tractor, but they are easily misplaced or forgotten as the tractor changes hands over the years.

Paul
I do not have the brackets. With ever on nes input and price in mind in trying to find just the brackets and u bolts and probably the turn buckle styles.so if anyone can point me in the right direction of where to purchase these items individually I would appreciate it.
 
This what my 5000 uses. The pic of one not installed is used on 3 cyl 4000 with same lift arms. They are Left and Right.
 

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This is my current set up minus the "bracket" around the PTO because it was dropping well below that and the arms where catching on it on the way up.
 

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Used on Ebay. Didn't think the brackets were too bad considering they came with the u-bolts, although I've made my own bolts with all thread and a piece of angle across the top

Ford 5000 TRACTOR SWAY BAR BRACKETS WITH U-BOLTS

And from this site. These look like the universal fits-all chains I have on one of my 5000's, they work. Keep the threads oiled, and use the jam nuts so the turnbuckle body doesn't fall off...

Stabilizer Chains, Set Fits many Tractors

Good luck
 
I you'd neet the LH side kit, as well.

MANY tractors used/use a similar system, and, yes, if made and installed correctly they should allow a full range of up and down movement of the 3-point arms.

tLXudOZ.jpeg


The photo above is of the more common turnbuckle setup, vs. the telescoping square tube setup you posted.
The turnbuckle set is the WORSE sway system to use. AS... it pulls the arms out and into the wheel cleats when not in use. It tears off the corners of the tire cleats. You MUST always have a bar or rope, or bungie cord to keep the arms in so that they dont damage the tire cleats and in many cases it will break off the arm mounts and destroy the axle trumpets... DO NOT BUY THESE!!! do buy the flat common sway bars that have been around for years. Or better yet get the newer square tubes that replace the horrible turnbuckle system...The square tube system is excellent... I have two damaged $1400 axle trumpets in my scrap pile from customers who had the horrible turnbuckle system. As show in the picture, he MUST keep a safety bar on the links at all times to avoid catastrophic failure. The turnbuckles also rust in place and will no longer be adjustable is also a common failure. If you do want to buy them, I have a pile of them that I have removed, in my scrap pile.
 
The turnbuckle set is the WORSE sway system to use. AS... it pulls the arms out and into the wheel cleats when not in use. It tears off the corners of the tire cleats. You MUST always have a bar or rope, or bungie cord to keep the arms in so that they dont damage the tire cleats and in many cases it will break off the arm mounts and destroy the axle trumpets... DO NOT BUY THESE!!! do buy the flat common sway bars that have been around for years. Or better yet get the newer square tubes that replace the horrible turnbuckle system...The square tube system is excellent... I have two damaged $1400 axle trumpets in my scrap pile from customers who had the horrible turnbuckle system. As show in the picture, he MUST keep a safety bar on the links at all times to avoid catastrophic failure. The turnbuckles also rust in place and will no longer be adjustable is also a common failure. If you do want to buy them, I have a pile of them that I have removed, in my scrap pile.
My Farmtrac came with turn buckle stabilizers but it also has the inside stay chains to keep the lift arms out of the tires
Turn buckle stabilizers without stay chains was a very poor system, much like the stabilizer blocks on other tractors with a means to keep the lift arms out of the tires
IMG_4087.jpeg
 
Used on Ebay. Didn't think the brackets were too bad considering they came with the u-bolts, although I've made my own bolts with all thread and a piece of angle across the top

Ford 5000 TRACTOR SWAY BAR BRACKETS WITH U-BOLTS

And from this site. These look like the universal fits-all chains I have on one of my 5000's, they work. Keep the threads oiled, and use the jam nuts so the turnbuckle body doesn't fall off...

Stabilizer Chains, Set Fits many Tractors

Good luck
The setup I referenced in my post on the back of my 5000. Note the sway chains on the inside of the lift arms to keep the arms from hitting the tires when no implement is attached
1000008098.jpg
1000008099.jpg
 
The turnbuckle set is the WORSE sway system to use. AS... it pulls the arms out and into the wheel cleats when not in use. It tears off the corners of the tire cleats. You MUST always have a bar or rope, or bungie cord to keep the arms in so that they dont damage the tire cleats and in many cases it will break off the arm mounts and destroy the axle trumpets... DO NOT BUY THESE!!! do buy the flat common sway bars that have been around for years. Or better yet get the newer square tubes that replace the horrible turnbuckle system...The square tube system is excellent... I have two damaged $1400 axle trumpets in my scrap pile from customers who had the horrible turnbuckle system. As show in the picture, he MUST keep a safety bar on the links at all times to avoid catastrophic failure. The turnbuckles also rust in place and will no longer be adjustable is also a common failure. If you do want to buy them, I have a pile of them that I have removed, in my scrap pile.
As previously mentioned the little stay chains should always be used with any stabilizer system.

In regard to rusty turnbuckles, everything rusts if not properly maintained. I use Never-Seez on thing like the turn buckles. The top link on your : point is just a likely to rust and get stuck in position.

The damaged components you mention are a result of improper use and lack of proper care.
 
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