Ford 5000 3 point stabilization

The setup I referenced in my post on the back of my 5000. Note the sway chains on the inside of the lift arms to keep the arms from hitting the tires when no implement is attachedView attachment 108755View attachment 108756
How am I gonna know how far to place these brackets? The photo above has em all the way out on the axle and you'res are all the way in? Dose this depend on the implement I'm using? Or how far I have the sway arms twisted out???
 
How am I gonna know how far to place these brackets? The photo above has em all the way out on the axle and you'res are all the way in? Dose this depend on the implement I'm using? Or how far I have the sway arms twisted out??
The farther out you have them the more stable they will be with less stress on the chain.

You are making a triangle with them. The wider the base, the more stable the triangle.

On my 860, there is only one position for the fender/stabilizer bracket.
 

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How am I gonna know how far to place these brackets? The photo above has em all the way out on the axle and you'res are all the way in? Dose this depend on the implement I'm using? Or how far I have the sway arms twisted out???
Been 25 years or so since I put these on, so my reasoning for that location eludes me.

I do know I cover a lot of ground with a heavily built 7ft 3 point rotary cutter (bush hog) and this handles it with no problems.
Have also had a 7'10" disc mower (before I bought a caddy), 4bottom plow, 250 gallon 3 point sprayer and other implements on there with no issues.
I think I moved the tires outward after I put the stabilizers on, so it may have been a tire clearance thing.

And if one bracket position doesn't work for you, scoot it over.
 
Been 25 years or so since I put these on, so my reasoning for that location eludes me.

I do know I cover a lot of ground with a heavily built 7ft 3 point rotary cutter (bush hog) and this handles it with no problems.
Have also had a 7'10" disc mower (before I bought a caddy), 4bottom plow, 250 gallon 3 point sprayer and other implements on there with no issues.
I think I moved the tires outward after I put the stabilizers on, so it may have been a tire clearance thing.

And if one bracket position doesn't work for you, scoot it over.
Guess Ill just monkey around with them. Like I said I am running a stump grinder and it's very .... Aggressive lol.
 
All states Ag. Parts (tractorpartsasap) sells a square tube within a tube with holes for setting the dimension. Easy to mount and bullet proof. You'll never go back to anything with a chain on it.


Third picture from the left. The 5000 isn't mentioned but gonna bet it will fit...might ask them....also that's for one. I recall getting a set like picture 4 for my 3000 but I think there were a pair for about a hundred bucks. The lift arm may need to have a hole drilled for mounting, or on the larger tractors like yours there is probably a hole already there. The other end fits on the bracket that's underneath the axle housing held in place with the bolts holding the fender on.
 
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Guess Ill just monkey around with them. Like I said I am running a stump grinder and it's very .... Aggressive lol.
As Hemmjo said, the farther apart the better. Makes sense.
I guess put the brackets out as wide as you can without messing with your tires.
I watched a video about your grinder. Impressive.
The chains on my tractors only have to restrain the weight of the implement.
That grinder on your tractor is pulling all the time.
Let us know how it all works out
 
As Hemmjo said, the farther apart the better. Makes sense.
I guess put the brackets out as wide as you can without messing with your tires.
I watched a video about your grinder. Impressive.
The chains on my tractors only have to restrain the weight of the implement.
That grinder on your tractor is pulling all the time.
Let us know how it all works out
I will try and remember to update when i get back to using it. Unfortunately we just got two days of non stop rain were i live sooo it maybe be awhile untill I'm back at the grind.
 
As previously mentioned the little stay chains should always be used with any stabilizer system.

In regard to rusty turnbuckles, everything rusts if not properly maintained. I use Never-Seez on thing like the turn buckles. The top link on your : point is just a likely to rust and get stuck in position.

The damaged components you mention are a result of improper use and lack of proper care.
To install the aftermarket square tube style I had to remove the stay chains as the bars use the same hole in the lift are and the stay chain eye bolt isn’t long enough add the bars bracket
 
I use the threaded, adjustable bars from TSC in place of the flat bars. Work ok . Did have to heat and straighten one end to get the angle correct on the 3400.
 
As Hemmjo said, the farther apart the better. Makes sense.
I guess put the brackets out as wide as you can without messing with your tires.
I watched a video about your grinder. Impressive.
The chains on my tractors only have to restrain the weight of the implement.
That grinder on your tractor is pulling all the time.
Let us know how it all works out
Finally got back outside and I did about 8 stumps today. The turn buckle style works great and keep the grinder right where I put it. Took less the 10 mins a stump.
 
Finally got back outside and I did about 8 stumps today. The turn buckle style works great and keep the grinder right where I put it. Took less the 10 mins a stump.
Good deal.

You got me thinking about a stump grinder like yours.

How well does that work with your 5000? Are you constantly riding the clutch? I've read a couple of manufacturers suggest a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission.
 
Good deal.

You got me thinking about a stump grinder like yours.

How well does that work with your 5000? Are you constantly riding the clutch? I've read a couple of manufacturers suggest a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission.
I cannot speak to the hydrostatic with the stump grinder, but it is MUCH superior when using a tiller.
 
I use the threaded, adjustable bars from TSC in place of the flat bars. Work ok . Did have to heat and straighten one end to get the angle correct on the 3400.
I have a couple of those and use them on another tractor that doesn't have brackets under the rear axle housing to accept the one I like and mentioned herein. They do get to be a problem on some implements as the pin isn't long enough to accept the arm and the support. I could replace the pins with adjustable length but I make do.
 
Good deal.

You got me thinking about a stump grinder like yours.

How well does that work with your 5000? Are you constantly riding the clutch? I've read a couple of manufacturers suggest a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission.
Hydrostatic would be far Superior for running a stump grinder. Yes I'm constantly riding the clutch. Lucky for me a lot of the stumps are older 5 or more years so the wood's pretty rotten and it tears through them easily. However, even with that being said once ur 8 inches in the ground I still snubbed out the tractor a handful of times yesterday. There is a learning curve not to mention constantly shifting forward and reverse. I've got about another 50 stumps to go so I'm sure by the time I'm done I'll have it figured out...or burn out my clutch .
If you're interested let me know and maybe I'll get a video up on YouTube or something.
 
Good deal.

You got me thinking about a stump grinder like yours.

How well does that work with your 5000? Are you constantly riding the clutch? I've read a couple of manufacturers suggest a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission.
I have run a grinder on a Ford bidirectional with hydro. Definitely the best way to go. A jd 4040 with creeper worked pretty good to drive up a row of Christmas tree stumps but on a larger stump you were slipping the couch or stalling it out. I wouldn't buy a tractor that was used on a grinder if I didn't know the operator and how they treated it.
 
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