Ford 5000 Coolant spitting out

adnedidas

New User
I have a ford 5000, it's spitting out coolant from the fill when engine gets hot. So first i Thought it might be a crack head or bad head gasket. Took the head to the shop and MAG it, no crack. So had them resurfaced it, put a new head gasket on it, ran it again for 2 hours and it's spitting coolant again. I check the Radiator and notice that when engine is on, the radiator hose would get really skinny. But when engine is off the radiator hose goes back to round normal. Need help!! What's wrong? Crack block? Bad radiator? Bad radiator hose?
 

Attachments

  • 20240513_153139.jpg
    20240513_153139.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 52
  • 20240513_153121.jpg
    20240513_153121.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 47
I have a ford 5000, it's spitting out coolant from the fill when engine gets hot. So first i Thought it might be a crack head or bad head gasket. Took the head to the shop and MAG it, no crack. So had them resurfaced it, put a new head gasket on it, ran it again for 2 hours and it's spitting coolant again. I check the Radiator and notice that when engine is on, the radiator hose would get really skinny. But when engine is off the radiator hose goes back to round normal. Need help!! What's wrong? Crack block? Bad radiator? Bad radiator hose?
Plugged radiator is my first thought.
 
I have a ford 5000, it's spitting out coolant from the fill when engine gets hot. So first i Thought it might be a crack head or bad head gasket. Took the head to the shop and MAG it, no crack. So had them resurfaced it, put a new head gasket on it, ran it again for 2 hours and it's spitting coolant again. I check the Radiator and notice that when engine is on, the radiator hose would get really skinny. But when engine is off the radiator hose goes back to round normal. Need help!! What's wrong? Crack block? Bad radiator? Bad radiator hose?
Picture your water pump trying to move water from the bottom of your radiator to the engine. It isn't getting enough so it creates a vacuum collapsing that hose.
Automotive applications used a spring in the hose to combat this at higher rpms but this shouldn't be needed in a low rpm engine.
 
Radiator stopped up.
Outlet (bottom) hose stopped up.
Outlet hose deteriorated on inside.A radiator hose may look good on the outside. But the inside can become weak due to age and even separate.
Radiator cap bad.

If it were mine. I would pull the radiator and flush it. Replace both hoses making sure the outlet hose has a spring installed. Replace the thermostat if it has one. Replace the radiator cap.
 
Hello ad.., welcome to YT! Let’s get a few more details. Have you had this tractor longer, had it been working fine for some amount of time? If this tractor is new to you and you are still learning the particulars hopefully you know that the radiators on these older tractors cannot be filled cold completely to the top. This is because liquids when heated expand. So naturally if this is your practice you need to lower the level of the coolant in the radiator to an inch or two covering the top header plate.(the plate in the top of the radiator that the tubes pass through. If this is your only problem you certainly went through a lot work for nothing. I do agree it looks like it is very likely your radiator is plugged internally by the way that hose acts. You don’t happen to be a guy that falls for gimmicks? Usually when I have seen radiator hoses get soft it is because the owner thought of a little water pump lube is good more is better. The oily substance in that stuff soaks into the rubber of the hoses and makes them real soft.
 
Hello ad.., welcome to YT! Let’s get a few more details. Have you had this tractor longer, had it been working fine for some amount of time? If this tractor is new to you and you are still learning the particulars hopefully you know that the radiators on these older tractors cannot be filled cold completely to the top. This is because liquids when heated expand. So naturally if this is your practice you need to lower the level of the coolant in the radiator to an inch or two covering the top header plate.(the plate in the top of the radiator that the tubes pass through. If this is your only problem you certainly went through a lot work for nothing. I do agree it looks like it is very likely your radiator is plugged internally by the way that hose acts. You don’t happen to be a guy that falls for gimmicks? Usually when I have seen radiator hoses get soft it is because the owner thought of a little water pump lube is good more is better. The oily substance in that stuff soaks into the rubber of the hoses and makes them real soft.
Well, now there is a new one on me!!
 
Hello ad.., welcome to YT! Let’s get a few more details. Have you had this tractor longer, had it been working fine for some amount of time? If this tractor is new to you and you are still learning the particulars hopefully you know that the radiators on these older tractors cannot be filled cold completely to the top. This is because liquids when heated expand. So naturally if this is your practice you need to lower the level of the coolant in the radiator to an inch or two covering the top header plate.(the plate in the top of the radiator that the tubes pass through. If this is your only problem you certainly went through a lot work for nothing. I do agree it looks like it is very likely your radiator is plugged internally by the way that hose acts. You don’t happen to be a guy that falls for gimmicks? Usually when I have seen radiator hoses get soft it is because the owner thought of a little water pump lube is good more is better. The oily substance in that stuff soaks into the rubber of the hoses and makes them real soft.
I'm new to everything here. Bought the tractor from a guy who lied that tractor is good, it's not. So tractor has no power at all on high gear. Can't even go up on my lawn on 4th gear. Brought it to a guy who charged me $1100 to just put a new carburetor on and says that was the problem. Went to get it and try driving to the farm, four minutes later it's acting up again. Brought it back, charged me another $100 for a fuel filter to put on because he says the fuel tank has some stuff in it. So now I got the tractor to the farm, added more fuel and coolant, cultivating for an hour and the story of my coolant spitting out started. Took it back to the same guy who fix it, he says it'll cost me $3000 to $3500 plus labor to fix it. He thinks it's either gasket is bad, head is crack, or block is crack. So I went back and paid $300, took my tractor home and try fixing myself. After new gasket is installed, coolant still spitting out, can't even move the tractor on 4th gear with 12ft cultivator attach.
 
I'm new to everything here. Bought the tractor from a guy who lied that tractor is good, it's not. So tractor has no power at all on high gear. Can't even go up on my lawn on 4th gear. Brought it to a guy who charged me $1100 to just put a new carburetor on and says that was the problem. Went to get it and try driving to the farm, four minutes later it's acting up again. Brought it back, charged me another $100 for a fuel filter to put on because he says the fuel tank has some stuff in it. So now I got the tractor to the farm, added more fuel and coolant, cultivating for an hour and the story of my coolant spitting out started. Took it back to the same guy who fix it, he says it'll cost me $3000 to $3500 plus labor to fix it. He thinks it's either gasket is bad, head is crack, or block is crack. So I went back and paid $300, took my tractor home and try fixing myself. After new gasket is installed, coolant still spitting out, can't even move the tractor on 4th gear with 12ft cultivator attach.
With the radiator hose getting skinny it sounds like your problem is in the radiator and its not allowing the water to freely flow out the bottom. Do you have a local radiator shop with an hot tank? If yes, I would take the radiator off and have them put it through their hot tank for a good cleaning. I'd also buy new radiator hoses.
 
Yes. I see bubbles when i open the radiator cap when engine is running
The radiator hose getting skinny when it is running points to a plugged radiator. The bubbles point to compression gasses getting into the coolant. Could be electrolysis, head gasket issue, cracked block, etc. You had the head checked for cracks which should indicate a good head. You could very well have both issues going on at the same time.
 
Have you did mechanical work like change a head gasket before? Followed a manual while performing the repair? Did you lube the cylinder head bolts (or stud nuts) when reinstalling them and used a torque wrench to tighten them in the proper sequence? Did you set the valve clearances properly after installing the head? I can tell you how to do an on the tractor check of how well your radiator flows. To do this you will need a helper or a cap that will close the bottom radiator neck when the hose is removed. Also hopefully you have a working thermostat in the tractor. What you do is drain the coolant unhook the bottom hose from the radiator. Use your cap or the hand of your assistant to hold the bottom radiator neck shut. Then fill the radiator completely full with your garden hose. And hopefully if your thermostat is in and working properly the water won’t flow into the engine through the upper hose. If it does you have to cap the top radiator neck or disconnect the hose from the engine and double it over and hold it with a clamp or something. Once the radiator is full pull the garden hose away. Then uncap or have your assistant remove their hand from the bottom neck. Watch the water level in the top tank of the radiator it should drop fairly rapidly. The bottom neck should have a flow that keeps nearly its entire circle full. If it runs out about half stream and the top tank level drops slowly your internal radiator tubes are plugging.
 
Lol... torque to 95 pounds cold, plus middle out pattern. Valve set to 15" intake, .018" exhaust ... What's so mechanical is there to it? Lol... I paid 4k for the tractor, I'm not going to pay another 5k to have it pro fix.
 
I get what you’re saying, just poking buttons. The bolts threads were clean and the thread holes were good? A lot of guys on here will swear you need to run a tap in every thread hole. That is the right way, but if the bolts run in the holes fine by finger they are okay. Then cleaned out and lube the holes, then a blast of air to make sure there is not to much oil that the bolt hydro-locks in the hole or worse bust the cast out. If the bolts were not lubed that definitely could be one of your problems. Then retorque the head after you have warmed it up. Gasket companies may say this isn’t needed, but it sure seems to be the trick to ensure a long lasting seal of the gasket.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top