Ford 600 Tractor Electrical

[FordFarm600]

I inherited a Ford 600. Did these come in a 6 or 12v option when made? It has a 12v generator, 12v battery. 12v coil with built in resistor, but the ground is negative? I know nothing about the difference in 12 and 6v, but from what I’ve read 12v generators can be neg. ground? The issue I see is it has a very old regulator and I have no idea if it’s made for 12 or 6v - does
this matter? Anyway I can identify if it’s 12 or 6v regulator?

 

[Sean in PA]

The 600 series were all gas or propane fueled engines with a 6 volt electrical system when the left the factory. The next generation 601 series were still 6 volts for the gas and propane fired models, but the '01 series is where they introduced the diesel engines, and the diesel fired tractors came with a 12 volt electrical system. You didn't mention whether it has a diesel engine, but if it is a diesel, then it is a 601 series and not a 600 series.

 

[FordFarm600]

The 600 series were all gas or propane fueled engines with a 6 volt electrical system when the left the factory. The next generation 601 series were still 6 volts for the gas and propane fired models, but the '01 series is where they introduced the diesel engines, and the diesel fired tractors came with a 12 volt electrical system. You didn't mention whether it has a diesel engine, but if it is a diesel, then it is a 601 series and not a 600 series.

Sorry, yes it’s a gas engine the 134 - I don’t know if this regulator is original.

 

[Sean in PA]

Then the 12 volt electrical components were added at some point after the tractor left the factory, probably donated from a diesel '01 series tractor. Most folks who converted to 12 volts later than that used an alternator with an internal voltage regulator.

 

[JMOR]

Picture is not original or "OEM" regulator.

 

[KCM]

That's a NAPA regulator. Many times regulators are stamped or printed with the voltage on the lid, base, or on the back side. 12V systems are negative ground while 6V are positive ground. If it is connected to the generator, than more than likely if the generator is 12v the regulator is too, especially since it is an aftermarket regulator.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

I inherited a Ford 600. Did these come in a 6 or 12v option when made? It has a 12v generator, 12v battery. 12v coil with built in resistor, but the ground is negative? I know nothing about the difference in 12 and 6v, but from what I’ve read 12v generators can be neg. ground? The issue I see is it has a very old regulator and I have no idea if it’s made for 12 or 6v - does
this matter? Anyway I can identify if it’s 12 or 6v regulator?

Welcome aboard the wonderful world of Ford Tractors. Do you have any prior experience with Ford Tractors? All are great workhorse machines and if you have any mechanical ability, and know how to turn a wrench correctly, are fun to work on (most times), and parts are still available for these 80+ year old machines. You have some incorrect information stated and need to stop doing anything til you know proper systems and procedures. 12V uses the NEG GRN setup for example. Another is no VR is used on a 12V Conversion. Still another is an external resistor is NOT wired unless you are using the OEM 6-V Coil. So, your wiring is incorrect out of the gate. Best to stop here. This is a long post but important vital information contained within. SAVE.

Your next step is to get copies of the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read religiously. You must understand that all FORD Modules; cars, trucks, and tractors used the 6-VOLT/POSITIVE GROUND until the late 1950’s. The only exception is the 1943 Ford-Ferguson 2N Wartime Model with no electrics or rubber but that is another chapter to read later. In the late 1950’s FORD TRACTOR released the DIESEL MODELS and they all used a 12-VOLT/NEG GRN setup but still with a Voltage Regulator. Moden 12-Volt Conversions today use an ALTRENATOR, the DELCO 10-SI 1-Wire Unit is a proven reliable unit, and the VR is removed from the circuit altogether. You must understand the 6V/POS GRN system first before you go messing with a 12V conversion. Incorrect Wiring is the root cause of 99.98% of all non-starting and electrical issues regardless if 6V or 12. SEE WIRING DRAWINGS,

NOW, listen up. Avoid buying any new parts for now. How do you know if old are defective? Disconnect the battery. Take to a local shop and have tested under load. It must sustain specific gravity and a full charge under load. If poor or bad, replace with a GRP 1 for 6V or a GRP 35 for a 12V unit. Do not reconnect the new one until you verify entire wiring system is correct. Get a digital VOM and set it to Continuity. Do not use an idiot test light.

NOTE - OEM 6V/POS GRN setup uses:

3-WIRE/2-BRUSH, 20 AMP B-Circuit 6V GENERATOR with a belt tensioner.

3-WIRE Terminal VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

3-WIRE 6V STARTER MOTOR and uses a RELAY (SOLENOID).

30/30 AMMETER

Neutral Safety Start Pushbutton.

Angle Mounted (SIDE) Distributor. Another important chapter. Tune-up and timing set with timing light on flywheel thru side inspection cover. Firing Order is 1, 2, 4, 3 CW. SEE MANUALS.

There is NO Voltage Regulator sue in a 12-VOLT Conversion. It gets removed from the circuit.

There is NO resistor used in the wiring in the electrical system from 1952 on. There is a junction terminal block on the back of the dash – SEE DRAWING.

You only need an external 1.5 OHM resistor when using a 12V conversion and your OEM 6-V Coil. Eliminate it by swapping out to a verified 12V Coil.

After you get all wiring verified to be correct you can move on to prepping for the start-up. The side distributor is 2nd most misunderstood feature. READ MANALS.

You must use a Fan Belt Tensioning Bracket, regardless if using a GEN or an ALT. Without proper fan belt tension you will never charge the battery. Period. Poor belt tension also affects the cooling system and can cause water pump damage and overheating.

Lastly, when all is right with your system, you should consider investing in a good float charger (DELTRAN) to maintain the battery life at 100% when tractor is idle in the barn.

Start with the ESENTIAL MANUALS and related documents. Copy and paste this post and save it your PC for reference. Pictures can be also saved to your PC as well. Let us know on your progress as you learn more. Good Luck!


Tim Daley (MI)

 

[FordFarm600]

Welcome aboard the wonderful world of Ford Tractors. Do you have any prior experience with Ford Tractors? All are great workhorse machines and if you have any mechanical ability, and know how to turn a wrench correctly, are fun to work on (most times), and parts are still available for these 80+ year old machines. You have some incorrect information stated and need to stop doing anything til you know proper systems and procedures. 12V uses the NEG GRN setup for example. Another is no VR is used on a 12V Conversion. Still another is an external resistor is NOT wired unless you are using the OEM 6-V Coil. So, your wiring is incorrect out of the gate. Best to stop here. This is a long post but important vital information contained within. SAVE.

Your next step is to get copies of the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read religiously. You must understand that all FORD Modules; cars, trucks, and tractors used the 6-VOLT/POSITIVE GROUND until the late 1950’s. The only exception is the 1943 Ford-Ferguson 2N Wartime Model with no electrics or rubber but that is another chapter to read later. In the late 1950’s FORD TRACTOR released the DIESEL MODELS and they all used a 12-VOLT/NEG GRN setup but still with a Voltage Regulator. Moden 12-Volt Conversions today use an ALTRENATOR, the DELCO 10-SI 1-Wire Unit is a proven reliable unit, and the VR is removed from the circuit altogether. You must understand the 6V/POS GRN system first before you go messing with a 12V conversion. Incorrect Wiring is the root cause of 99.98% of all non-starting and electrical issues regardless if 6V or 12. SEE WIRING DRAWINGS,

NOW, listen up. Avoid buying any new parts for now. How do you know if old are defective? Disconnect the battery. Take to a local shop and have tested under load. It must sustain specific gravity and a full charge under load. If poor or bad, replace with a GRP 1 for 6V or a GRP 35 for a 12V unit. Do not reconnect the new one until you verify entire wiring system is correct. Get a digital VOM and set it to Continuity. Do not use an idiot test light.

NOTE - OEM 6V/POS GRN setup uses:

3-WIRE/2-BRUSH, 20 AMP B-Circuit 6V GENERATOR with a belt tensioner.

3-WIRE Terminal VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

3-WIRE 6V STARTER MOTOR and uses a RELAY (SOLENOID).

30/30 AMMETER

Neutral Safety Start Pushbutton.

Angle Mounted (SIDE) Distributor. Another important chapter. Tune-up and timing set with timing light on flywheel thru side inspection cover. Firing Order is 1, 2, 4, 3 CW. SEE MANUALS.

There is NO Voltage Regulator sue in a 12-VOLT Conversion. It gets removed from the circuit.

There is NO resistor used in the wiring in the electrical system from 1952 on. There is a junction terminal block on the back of the dash – SEE DRAWING.

You only need an external 1.5 OHM resistor when using a 12V conversion and your OEM 6-V Coil. Eliminate it by swapping out to a verified 12V Coil.

After you get all wiring verified to be correct you can move on to prepping for the start-up. The side distributor is 2nd most misunderstood feature. READ MANALS.

You must use a Fan Belt Tensioning Bracket, regardless if using a GEN or an ALT. Without proper fan belt tension you will never charge the battery. Period. Poor belt tension also affects the cooling system and can cause water pump damage and overheating.

Lastly, when all is right with your system, you should consider investing in a good float charger (DELTRAN) to maintain the battery life at 100% when tractor is idle in the barn.

Start with the ESENTIAL MANUALS and related documents. Copy and paste this post and save it your PC for reference. Pictures can be also saved to your PC as well. Let us know on your progress as you learn more. Good Luck!


Tim Daley (MI)

Wow! Thank you for all the information!

 

[Jeff57]

The 600 series were all gas or propane fueled engines with a 6 volt electrical system when the left the factory. The next generation 601 series were still 6 volts for the gas and propane fired models, but the '01 series is where they introduced the diesel engines, and the diesel fired tractors came with a 12 volt electrical system. You didn't mention whether it has a diesel engine, but if it is a diesel, then it is a 601 series and not a 600 series.

 

[Sean in PA]

The 600 series were all gas or propane fueled engines with a 6 volt electrical system when the left the factory.

They also made a kerosene fueled version of the red tiger engine from 1953 through 1957. The kerosene version of the NAA was actually called the NAB, and they continued making kerosene fueled engines through the hundred series up to 1957.

 

[Jeff57]

Hi I’m new to the forum. I recently was given a Ford 601 diesel that I’m trying to get started. There’s a new12 volt battery and a alternator in place. Question- is there a neural safety switch in the system? Next there’s a Voltage regulator with wires. Why if the diesel and 12v system don’t require a VR from what I’m reading in the forum. A Positive ground thrown in the loop is confusing. What’s the minimum wiring that I need to start this diesel tractor. If it starts, then I will know if I need to do a wiring overhaul or sell it for scrap. I know it has been sheltered the last 15-20 years.

 

[Sean in PA]

The '01 series gas models were 6 volt positive ground when they left the factory, and the diesel models were 12 volt negative ground, but they both used generators with external voltage regulators. Since yours was modernized with an alternator, it probably doesn't still need the VR, but you need to check the exact model of alternator to be sure. Some older alternators still used external VRs. If it is currently wired for positive ground, then you really need to check out what make and model of alternator it is, because the vast majority of alternators can only be configured for negative ground.

The original starter circuit used a neutral safety starter switch in the top of the transmission that completed the circuit to ground when you pushed it.

You don't need the alternator to start it, only to charge the battery. To help you with the minimum wiring necessary to start it, we need to know what else has been changed from the factory setup. Is the neutral safety switch still there in the transmission top cover? Does it work? Or was it changed to bypass the neutral safety switch and use an automobile style key switch to start it? Some pictures might be helpful.

 

[Jeff57]

Thanks for the info. I will get some pics and post them

 

[Jim.ME]

When you get your pictures, I am going to suggest you start a new thread of your own with all the info about your tractor you have. I am suggesting that as somewhere before this is done someone will start replying to posts in the original thread, not your posts. Tagging into old threads started by others often leads to confusion between their posts and yours. Old threads often have good info for reference but best to keep your issues separate. JMHO

 

[Jeff57]

K - thanks for the advice