ford 7000 PTO issue

Hello all....I have a ford 7000 with an independent PTO that I bought last fall. It I had noticed the lever that engages had some play in it.I was using the tractor and after disengaging the PTO It would'nt engage again. It acts like it became disconnected inside the case.The lever just flops back and forth and the shaft and lever is about 1" from the case. Anyone out there ever experience this?? I am wondering what all is involved in making the repair.....Thanks
 
Roll pin inside the case that attaches the inside lever to the rod has broke or came out
If it has that much slop the detent ball and spring are probably laying in the bottom of the sump
I said this assuming your tractor is a 71-73 model, late 73/75 use a band brake with a different control valve and only one roll pin holding the lever on on the outside
 
As Destroked advised. The top cover will have to be removed, and the internal parts reassembled, or replaced, as needed. Go to Messicks CNH parts site to see a good diagram of what parts are involved. A repair manual would be a good investment.
 
Thank you guys very much... I was thinking a pin had sheared or something. It did engage and disengage at first but had a lot of play probably one end of the pin was broken. Then I finished it off when I was using the tractor. I have a couple manuals but didn't see any thing in detail. I'll try Messicks.. thanks again...
 
What year model is your 7000, does it have a oil filter on the right side of the axle housing, if it does there’s a oil feed tube that needs to be removed from that side near the filter before the lift top is removed. Also on those tractors there is one lift top housing bolt somewhat hidden under the right side lift rocker shaft
You’ll need a engine crane or some way to handle the lift top was it’s to heavy to handle by hand
 
I found the hidden bolt and got it out. I didn't know about the feed tube and yes it has the filter on the right side. Is there a bolt underneath the remote valves??
 
I haven't removed he remote valves. Trying to remove only what I have to remove.. I have a crane for removing engines I'll be using that.
 
No bolt under the remotes on that tractor that need removed
In front of the filter is the valve that senses fluid up to the oil cooler, Theresa large nut holding that valve to the transmission, the nut actually screws on to the end of that tube, remove the nut and the tube has a Allen wrench fitting inside the tube to remove it
 
The tube came out as you described. I have 15 1/2" bolts out 2. 5/8"bolts on the side of remote valve out.lift arms disconnected. Draft control disconnected.. Gently pried on the cover and no movement at all.. Am I missing anything else??
 
I got a little more aggressive with the pry bar and it popped loose.. I got my crane in position and I'm thinking I'll hook up somewhere between the seat mounting bolt holes I want it fairly level when I raise it up. Thanks for telling me about that tube. I didn't see anything about it in the manual that I have. Anyways I have chores to do and hay to rake so I'll probably continue with the tractor in the morning. You have been a great help.....
 
I attach a L bracket to the front seat bolt to lift it off, the lift piston assembly is toward the front of the housing and balances it pretty good
I have the same lift top without load monitor from a 6600 hanging on my lift at this time so I could work on the pto
I need to check and adjust the draft control linkage before reinstalling the lift top
 
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Ok... This is what I found this morning. When the shift handle moved outward from the outside of the case the spoolvalve clevis end managed to roll the fork out of the clevis.. There is no hole for a pin on the inside of the shaft like I thought there would have been. Seems like there should be a spacer or collar something to retain it......
 
Ok yours is the later model with the band brake
I’m working on one of these now
There’s 2 guide pins that screw in from the outside of the case that hold the pto control valve in position, have those pins come loose allowing the valve to drop down enough for the shift fork to not engage with the pin
I’ll take a coupe photos an post shortly
 
IMG_0028.jpeg


IMG_0024.jpeg

Front pin screws all the way in and tight
Back pin loosen lock nut, turn screw in till snug, not overly tight, back off 1/4 turn and tighten lock nut

IMG_0027.jpeg

Enlarge photo and you can see the front pin sticking through the valves housing
 
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