ford 8n starter replace

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I've got a 8n that didn't have the starter installed when I purchased it. I can't get the starter all the way in. It lacks a quarter of a inch of going in. What am I doing wrong?
 
The starter has 3 major exterior components; front plate, barrel & rear plate. The 2 bolts that hold the starter on to the bell housing go through all three components & hold it all together. To remove the starter, unscrew the bolts out of the block & put a nut on one of them. Otherwise, the starter comes apart. Not fatal, but not fun either. (tip # 36 at the link below) Then, loosen the two bolts holding the oil filter canister to the block, (it does not need to be removed) remove the dipstick, and keep the starter close to the block while pushing the front of it down and lifting the back up. Sometimes you have to remove the drain petcock as well.The bendix is behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Caution: while the starter is off, resist the temptation to screw with the bendix. If you extend the bendix, and it is not the OEM bendix w/ the big spring, you will have a hard time getting the starter installed.

To install the starter, keep it close to the block while pulling the front of it up and pushing the bendix back into the hole. The bendix has to go behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel. Grinding out an egg shape at the 2 o'clock position before you put it back will make your life easier.

Lastly, while the starter is off, polish the block & all starter mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground. First, clean the mating area between the barrel and rear plate. Then, clean the mating surfaces where the aluminum rear plate meets the bell housing. The starter's ground circuit is not only through the two long bolts but from the barrel to the rear plate & then to the bell housing as well.
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50 Tips
 
Well said Bruce.
Just installed mine yesterday.
Tex2, it's a bit of a grunt, but if you follow Bruce's tips (and hold your tongue in right position LOL), it should be a go.
I used my Dremel with a little grining wheel to increase the hole size ever so slightly to allow the bendix to pass over the fly wheel.
Just stuffed a rag in the hole to catch the filings.
 
Tex:

Usually you can install the starter if you remove the block drain valve to gain a bit more clearance.

Dean
 
If the Bendix is extended how do I move it to the correct position? I have the starter with the big spring I think.
 
You can hold the gear up to a wire brush on your bench grinder & spin it in the direction that the engine turns & it will retract. Or, just put back extended. It will retract when the engine starts
50 Tips
 
Someone's curious fingers extended mine as well and I couldn't get it in and it kept bogging down my grinder. It's a wimpy little 1/2 horse but I didn't have the twisted wire brush just a coarse one.
What I ended up doing is pulling the top off a drill press and moving the belts to the fastest setting and putting the second belt around the gear on the starter (I should have taken a picture). The first belt (nearest the motor) was on the largest part of the first pulley and the smallest part of the second pulley. The second belt went on the largest part of the second pulley and around the gear of the starter with me holding it and pointing it straight up. It needs to turn the direction that makes the ratcheting sound.
All of this took about 3 minutes to set up and perform and about an hour of trying other things and thinking about how to do it. If your grinder can't do it, your drill press might.
 
I am having the same problem you did. Grinder wheel with wire brush is too wimpy to spin the starter. It bogs down. I actually spun it better with a wire brush in my drill but it wouldn't spin it fast enough. The drill press ides sounds interesting. I didn't follow how you did it. A picture would be excellent.
 
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