Ford 8N won't start

I have 1951 Ford 8N. It is a 6 volt system. Everything has been replaced-carbuerator, generator, distributor, ignition, wiring etc. It has been running for about a year. I9 have been gone for about 2-3 weeks. Just got back Monday, went out to start tractor. Nothing, Battery was dead. Tried to charge but to no avail. Bought new 6 volt 1 year battery and installed it. Tractor cranks but no fire, checked all connections, pulled gas line at carb has good flow. Yes gas in tank. Tried about everything but no fire. What could have happened in 3 weeks? Any ideas? Thanks Gene
 
Did you check to see if you have a good blue white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap at the center wire of the distributor cap and at all 4 plug wires
 
Vinegar Ben , Someone could have tried starting it and ,fuel was off and left the switch on.Check your points as they are possibly burnt up.
 


These tractors are amazingly simple machines; they are over 70 years old and were designed to be maintained by the operator.

Some basic troubleshooting skills and a few common tools will get them running.

Butyour friends (and maybe your experience ) will often get in the way of fixing your tractor. Rarely are guesses like It's the coil helpful. We can make
a long list of possible causes for the tractor not running and start picking our favorite to check out. Or, we can step back and recognize that the trick to
fixing these tractors (or trouble shooting any piece of equipment) is to be systematic about it. You need to isolate the problem system by system, step by step
and work from most likely to least likely and replace parts only when you confirm they are defective. Jumping ahead to 'so-and-so said it could be whatever' or
just replacing parts will waste your time and your money.

It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & gas/air in the right mixture. Compression is easy; check it with a gauge.
But, you don't lose compression overnight, so if your tractor won't start, or suddenly cuts off, forget about compression for the moment, & concentrate on
narrowing the problem to fuel or spark. If you don't do that, you are going to end up chasing your tail around that tractor & spending a boatload of money to
fix what could easily be a loose wire or a clogged fuel tank vent. I offer this advice from personal experience because I am not a magician. I do not have the
magical ability to simply diagnose the problem & go right to the fix. And I dont like playing guessing games either. So, whenever my tractors stop, I confirm
both spark & fuel then go from there.

I might not be capable of telling you why your tractor isn't running, but I sure can tell you how to figure it out for yourself.

Bottom line:

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4 in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

How do I know this part is defective?

These are the questions you need answered before you attempt any repairs or buy a new part.

*If you dont own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap, ( NOT a light) buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least will work.
Ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.


Amazon.com: Coil-on Plug Spark Tester Adjustable Ignition Spark Plug Tester Ignition Spark Test Tool : Automotive
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 15:20:46 08/10/22)

These tractors are amazingly simple machines; they are over 70 years old and were designed to be maintained by the operator.

Some basic troubleshooting skills and a few common tools will get them running.

Butyour friends (and maybe your experience ) will often get in the way of fixing your tractor. Rarely are guesses like It's the coil helpful. We can make
a long list of possible causes for the tractor not running and start picking our favorite to check out. Or, we can step back and recognize that the trick to
fixing these tractors (or trouble shooting any piece of equipment) is to be systematic about it. You need to isolate the problem system by system, step by step
and work from most likely to least likely and replace parts only when you confirm they are defective. Jumping ahead to 'so-and-so said it could be whatever' or
just replacing parts will waste your time and your money.

It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & gas/air in the right mixture. Compression is easy; check it with a gauge.
But, you don't lose compression overnight, so if your tractor won't start, or suddenly cuts off, forget about compression for the moment, & concentrate on
narrowing the problem to fuel or spark. If you don't do that, you are going to end up chasing your tail around that tractor & spending a boatload of money to
fix what could easily be a loose wire or a clogged fuel tank vent. I offer this advice from personal experience because I am not a magician. I do not have the
magical ability to simply diagnose the problem & go right to the fix. And I dont like playing guessing games either. So, whenever my tractors stop, I confirm
both spark & fuel then go from there.

I might not be capable of telling you why your tractor isn't running, but I sure can tell you how to figure it out for yourself.

Bottom line:

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4 in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

How do I know this part is defective?

These are the questions you need answered before you attempt any repairs or buy a new part.

*If you dont own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap, ( NOT a light) buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least will work.
Ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.


Amazon.com: Coil-on Plug Spark Tester Adjustable Ignition Spark Plug Tester Ignition Spark Test Tool : Automotive
75 Tips
Thank you Bruce for sharing your experience but I do want to clarify something I did not go out and just start buying new parts. This tractor was completely restored a little over a year ago. It was during that period all new parts to the engine were installed to give the tractor a new fresh start. The only thing I bought lately was the battery to replace the old one which was 18 months old. I went to NAPA and they only had a 6 month battery which really doesn't do me any good so I found a 1 year battery at O'Reilly's. They had a 3 year battery for $100 more but had less cranking amps [didn't make sense to me and they could explain it either. So again I will follow your lead step by step and see where it leads. Thanks again and have a great day.
 
What is a "one year battery" or "three year battery"?
Are you talking about the warranty?
So I just stepped out and took a look at the batteries in our 2N and 8N.
They are Les Schwab, 60 month batteries.
The 2N has a date sticker of 4/15 and the 8N does not have a date sticker. I bought the 8N (the "Junk Pile") in 2008 with a new battery and am guessing that is the date.
Forget the warranty hype and just maintain your batteries.
ALL of our batteries on the farm usually exceed 10 years.
Our Massey has the battery that came with it in 2005. Sadly, the battery MFG is out of business. :(
 
OK, first of all, why did you replace all the major components? Did you test them first? FORD engineered all components to be rebuilt over and over. New parts are made
in Cheena today and many fail to meet OEM specs. Do not expect any to be good out of the box. Next, a dead battery is a likely culprit of your non-starting. Just
because you have a 6V battery don't assume it is wired correctly for the OEM 6V/POS GRN system. Ditto if you have a 12V battery. When a battery sets for a few weeks or
months, it will deplete lead cells and lose the charge. Best solution is #1 get a good brand battery, bargain house units have a poor lifespan, #2 invest in a Battery
Tender to keep battery at full charge when idle. When you go to start the tractor and you press the Neutral Safety Start Pushbutton and it only click click clicks on
the solenoid, that is the tell-tale sign your battery is dead. Take it to your trusty local shop and test on their machine. While battery is out, begin verifying
entire wiring is correct using Pictogram Diagrams by JMOR. The best investment you can make for your N Tractor is The ESSENTIAL MANUALS. Get them and read
religiously.

2a28IGzl.jpg


Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 05:37:37 08/11/22) OK, first of all, why did you replace all the major components? Did you test them first? FORD engineered all components to be rebuilt over and over. New parts are made
in Cheena today and many fail to meet OEM specs. Do not expect any to be good out of the box. Next, a dead battery is a likely culprit of your non-starting. Just
because you have a 6V battery don't assume it is wired correctly for the OEM 6V/POS GRN system. Ditto if you have a 12V battery. When a battery sets for a few weeks or
months, it will deplete lead cells and lose the charge. Best solution is #1 get a good brand battery, bargain house units have a poor lifespan, #2 invest in a Battery
Tender to keep battery at full charge when idle. When you go to start the tractor and you press the Neutral Safety Start Pushbutton and it only click click clicks on
the solenoid, that is the tell-tale sign your battery is dead. Take it to your trusty local shop and test on their machine. While battery is out, begin verifying
entire wiring is correct using Pictogram Diagrams by JMOR. The best investment you can make for your N Tractor is The ESSENTIAL MANUALS. Get them and read
religiously.

<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/2a28IGzl.jpg></center>
Tim, I do have a Ford manual with diagrams etc. When I bought the tractor it was not running. I went STEP BY STEP checking wiring, battery polarity and charging, regulator, power to starter, generator, points, spark, fuel lines and on and on. I know most everything comes from CHEENA as you put it. I bought all the parts from Yesterday's tractor who proudly sells them and also from well renowned Tractor dealers. Don't know what else I could have done.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
Pulling the gas line at the carb is good, pulling the plug at the bottom of the carburetor is better as there is or should be a screen at the inlet fitting. But you say you have no "fire" which in the slang world I take to mean you have no spark, but I could be wrong.
Did you test for spark with a spark tester? Did you remove any spark plugs and inspect to see if they were wet with gas?
You said the tractor sat for 3 weeks and the battery went dead, that in itself sounds odd.

This post was edited by Eman85 on 08/12/2022 at 08:00 am.
 
As mentioned before I did check spark, wiring, voltage at battery 6.59, solenoid-6.59, generator-5.51, lights strong etc. 6.59 at starter button, when I turn the key on and hit the starter button nothing happens. Yes gear is in neutral. Could starter button be bad or is starter messed up? I do have battery hooked up to positive ground.
 
Could be a bad cable connection at the battery or ground etc. Or bad starter switch. Easy way to check starter switch is to use a jump wire from the solenoid small post to ground. If it spins over with the jumper wire either the switch or wire is bad
 
(quoted from post at 16:26:13 08/12/22) Could be a bad cable connection at the battery or ground etc. Or bad starter switch. Easy way to check starter switch is to use a jump wire from the solenoid small post to ground. If it spins over with the jumper wire either the switch or wire is bad

Tried jumper wire from solenoid and ground. Didn't sound like starter was spinning. did get spark.
 
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