After using the tractor however long, if I shut it off and come back to it in 2-3 min, it will not start until after its cooled down in an hour. I changed the points but it made no difference. What to do?
 
I am not fond of starting fluid, especially around diesel motors, but your 8n gas motor, will not be effected using it. Your motor may be low on compression. Maybe a carb overhaul for starters will help. Stan
 
(quoted from post at 10:26:28 05/14/23) After using the tractor however long, if I shut it off and come back to it in 2-3 min, it will not start until after its cooled down in an hour. I changed the points but it made no difference. What to do?
've been dealing with that on a k181 just lately. For me, it appears to have been the coil. So far, so good. As mentioned, a weak battery or a fat mixture can also give you trouble.
 
2x on what Gary M said especially if it still using the original 6 volt system. If it just cranks real slow R.. .. R .. .. the battery, cables and starter all could be suspect. Problems
with any or all of these could drop the voltage for the ignition to low for adequate spark during cranking.
 
Is it an early 8N with a front mount distributor or a later model with the side mount distributor?
If it's an early 8N, jumping the ballast resistor on the back of the dash may help narrow down the cause.
Later models with side mount would not have that original resistor.
They may still have some sort of resistor if it has been converted to 12V with a 6V coil.
 
Carburetor could be runing through and flooding the engine.

Try shutting the gasoline off before turning off the engine next time so as to run all of the gasoline from the carburetor.

Remember to turn it back on immediately before starting shortly thereafter.

Alternatively, could be low compression as 37 speculates. A compression test will determine.
 
So when you shut down the tractor, for however long, do you close the Sediment Bulb Valve? Do you open it TWO FULL TURNS when you go to start it? If you eave valve open in may flood the engine. However, more info please. Set with a Front Mount or Angle (Side) Mount Distributor? Set with a 6V/POS GRN or 12V switcheroo job? Whatever, is the system wired correctly? Why did you decide to change the points? Since you pulled them anyway without first doing root cause problem solving, did you gap them correctly - front = .015, side = .025, and set TIMING correctly? A weak or dead battery will click click click when start switch is pressed. It would do that every time, not intermittently. Get BAT tested at a shop. I doubt it is a bad coil or condenser like many always say. Next, with engine COLD, perform the Fuel Flow Test. When it didn't start again, did you see if plugs are fouled? 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. While battery is out at the shop verify entire wiring using the OEM sketches and manuals. Don't guess, don't just decide to yank parts off and replace willy nilly. That's not a logical procedure. You could end up with a slew of all new parts and the same non-starting problem will still be there. Next will be the spark test, as soon as it won't run. Voltage to Coil is next, then distributor.

Tim Daley (MI)
 
I knew a Ford flathead V8 in a 49 F-6 that had no compression, little oil pressure and a knock that acted that way. We always thought it was a compression issue. I don't know if it is true but I have heard somewhere I think that the Ford tractor flatheads were half of the V8 engines. Does anyone know if this is true?
 
Distributor is side mount. Engine will turnover as normal but will drain the battery if I hold the key to start. Something heats up and locks up (?).
Ken
 
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