Ford Dearborn Loader

[Kaszonyi]

I am putting a dearborn loader on my 46 2N. Looking for the replcement bolt that goes in the crank pulley to fasten pulley to crank that enables the pump plate to be mounted to crank pulley flush. Original had a place for starting crank to fit in, replacement is round with a screwdriver slot in it according to original Dearborn loader diagram, any idea where I can find one or how to make one?
Thanks John

 

[old]

The Case/IH/NH/Ford dealer should have them or be able to get them. As for it being set up for a screw driver I do not knw since the ones I have on my loader tractors are set up for a socket etc. Any good bolt place should also have what you need and if you take the old bolt with you you should be able to match it up. Fasneal is one of those places. Spelling my be wrong

 

[Dell (WA)]

Kaszonyi.......uh? the crownhead bolt (1-5/16 hex) that holds the sheetmetal pulley an fits the end of the crankshaft is 5/8-18x1" (15/16 hex) and torqued to 125ft/lbs. You do realize that the sheetmetal pulley will NOT mount the hydraulic pump stinger bridge, don't you? New 1-piece billet pulley is required. .......Dell

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 12:50:28 02/10/11) I am putting a dearborn loader on my 46 2N. Looking for the replcement bolt that goes in the crank pulley to fasten pulley to crank that enables the pump plate to be mounted to crank pulley flush. Original had a place for starting crank to fit in, replacement is round with a screwdriver slot in it according to original Dearborn loader diagram, any idea where I can find one or how to make one?
Thanks John

That is a special bolt and you will not find it at any fastener supply. The original crankshaft pulley and crown head bolt get replaced with an aftermarket pulley and bolt for driving the loader pump. There are two styles of pulley used and they use different bolts. Do you have the aftermarket pulley and if so which style is it - see pictures of the pulleys below. Once you know which pulley you have I can provide you with a bolt to fit it.

TOH

[size=18:965afbf19e][b:965afbf19e]Pulley #192160[/b:965afbf19e][/size:965afbf19e]

[size=18:965afbf19e][b:965afbf19e]Pulley #192152[/b:965afbf19e][/size:965afbf19e]

 

[rmlarsen]

Kaszonyi, shoot me an email and I can return a copy of the Dearborn Loader Manual if you need one.

[email protected]

 

[Kaszonyi]

Thanks;
That would be great!

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have the 192160 pulley
Thanks
John

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks; I have the new billet pulley with the 4 holes in it and a pilot started but not drilled through. Loooking for the right bolt for the job.
Thanks
John

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:52:15 02/10/11) I have the 192160 pulley
Thanks
John

OK - the 192160 pulley uses the 192161 splined hub and matching shaft. A conventional 5/8-18 x 1" hex bolt will fit in the recess on the back of the hub. Alternatively you can cut a 82* countersink on the center hole and use a 5/8-18 x 1" flat head cap screw which will give you a bit more clearance and allow the splined shaft to go a bit further into the hub. Do not attempt to countersinnk the head flush - leave it about 1/8" proud of the face of the pulley. If you cut the countersink too deep the head of the cap screw will bottom on the end of the crankshaft and will not tighten up against the pulley. I have the flat head cap screws like the on in the bottom picture if you want one - they are a hex key drive

TOH

[size=18:2853d365d0][b:2853d365d0]Hub #192161[/b:2853d365d0][/size:2853d365d0]

[size=18:2853d365d0] [b:2853d365d0]5/8-18 x 1 Flat Head Cap Screw[/b:2853d365d0][/size:2853d365d0]

 

[mhb@ufe]

I use a 5/8x1 fine thread bolt and cut half the thickness of the bolt head off and install it with a 15/16 socket.

Mark

 

[Anonymous-0]

I could definately use one. Let me know what it costs
John

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 10:23:50 02/11/11) I could definately use one. Let me know what it costs
John

They are $4.50 + cost of a couple stamps.

TOH

 

[mhb@ufe]

NH must not realy want to sell them as they are over $26, part no 192167.

Mark

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:25:06 02/11/11) NH must not realy want to sell them as they are over $26, part no 192167.

Mark

And what exactly does a real 192167 look like? And does it actually work with the aftermarket 192160 pulley?

TOH

 

[mhb@ufe]

(quoted from post at 13:04:10 02/11/11)

(quoted from post at 15:25:06 02/11/11) NH must not realy want to sell them as they are over $26, part no 192167.

Mark

And what exactly does a real 192167 look like? And does it actually work with the aftermarket 192160 pulley?

TOH

Look up a 19-42 loader in the manual section of the other site and there is a pretty good picture with the hydraulic pump and drive.

Mark

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 16:58:57 02/11/11)

(quoted from post at 13:04:10 02/11/11)

(quoted from post at 15:25:06 02/11/11) NH must not realy want to sell them as they are over $26, part no 192167.

Mark

And what exactly does a real 192167 look like? And does it actually work with the aftermarket 192160 pulley?

TOH

Look up a 19-42 loader in the manual section of the other site and there is a pretty good picture with the hydraulic pump and drive.

Mark

I already looked and it's not at all clear to me how that screw works. The current 192160 pulley has a thru hole roughly 9/16"diameter x 3/16" deep in the face - no counterbore or countersink. So the screw has to have a head larger than 9/16" and a grip less than 3/16" long. Is it just a 9/16" x 3/16" shank shoulder bolt with a thin (~3/4" x 1/8") slotted head? If so that is trivial to make. In fact I'd make it a hex or torx socket head rather than slotted for better grip. How many you want at $26 a pop ;-)

TOH

 

[mhb@ufe]

It is as described in the parts list 5/8x18x7/8 slotted head cap screw.
I will continue to use the 5/8x18x1 bolt with 1/2 the thickness of the head cut off.

Mark

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 18:07:47 02/11/11) It is as described in the parts list 5/8x18x7/8 slotted head cap screw.
I will continue to use the 5/8x18x1 bolt with 1/2 the thickness of the head cut off.

Mark

[color=blue:170e221688]"It is as described in the parts list 5/8x18x7/8 slotted head cap screw."[/color:170e221688]

You left off one important word from that description - "special" ;-) I'm thinking it's just a thin slotted head cap screw. I get enough inquiries I think I'll make up a batch of socket head ones when I get a free moment - need an excuse to try out the new rotary broaching toy I just bought :lol: I was just kidding about $26 each - sure you don't want a box of 6?

TOH

 

[mhb@ufe]

(quoted from post at 15:23:44 02/11/11)

(quoted from post at 18:07:47 02/11/11) It is as described in the parts list 5/8x18x7/8 slotted head cap screw.
I will continue to use the 5/8x18x1 bolt with 1/2 the thickness of the head cut off.

Mark

[color=blue:bd99efc2e1]"It is as described in the parts list 5/8x18x7/8 slotted head cap screw."[/color:bd99efc2e1]

You left off one important word from that description - "special" ;-) I'm thinking it's just a thin slotted head cap screw. I get enough inquiries I think I'll make up a batch of socket head ones when I get a free moment - need an excuse to try out the new rotary broaching toy I just bought :lol: I was just kidding about $26 each - sure you don't want a box of 6?

TOH

If i can find an old one that isn't worth reusing I will send it to you but when you get rich from them I'll be looking for a big fat check!

Mark

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 19:10:24 02/11/11)

(quoted from post at 15:23:44 02/11/11)

(quoted from post at 18:07:47 02/11/11) It is as described in the parts list 5/8x18x7/8 slotted head cap screw.
I will continue to use the 5/8x18x1 bolt with 1/2 the thickness of the head cut off.

Mark

[color=blue:9fdc2c9b4d]"It is as described in the parts list 5/8x18x7/8 slotted head cap screw."[/color:9fdc2c9b4d]

You left off one important word from that description - "special" ;-) I'm thinking it's just a thin slotted head cap screw. I get enough inquiries I think I'll make up a batch of socket head ones when I get a free moment - need an excuse to try out the new rotary broaching toy I just bought :lol: I was just kidding about $26 each - sure you don't want a box of 6?

TOH

If i can find an old one that isn't worth reusing I will send it to you but when you get rich from them I'll be looking for a big fat check!

Mark

Thanks for the offer but I reckon I can figure out how to make a low profile socket head cap screw that will get-r-done. As for getting rich i just priced a 1/4" hex broaching bit for my new tool - $55. Lets see @ 2$/unit profit I only have to move 26 of them to recoup the tooling cost. Expect your first check shortly after that

TOH

 

[sawgrass]

Let me get you a better deal on the hex broach, I'd love to see how these turn out. Looks like a good application for rotary broaching.
http://www.polygonsolutions.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 16:05:16 02/12/11)
Let me get you a better deal on the hex broach, I'd love to see how these turn out. Looks like a good application for rotary broaching.
http://www.polygonsolutions.com

Thanks - what are the odds I break it before i get the hang of it .

TOH

 

[sawgrass]

LOL - probably about the same as if I did it! If you have a broach holder it's not too hard. You can even do it in a Bridgeport.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTsPXFy7Xx0

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 17:11:04 02/12/11) LOL - probably about the same as if I did it! If you have a broach holder it's not too hard. You can even do it in a Bridgeport.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTsPXFy7Xx0

I have 2 Somma broach holders I picked up "cheap" on eBay - an ORB02 and an ORB00. 'll be usiing what I like to call my little "Bridgeport on steroids". Sometimes it doesn't know it's own strength.....

TOH