Fordson Won't Start

[Anonymous-0]

I have a wonderful old Fordson Super Major. The other day I went to use it and got no response when I pulled the starter lever. This has happened in the past, but I"ve always been able to overcome by trying several times. This time, there is no life at all, not even a clicking sound. I know the battery is good since my lights work.

Is a simple replacement of the voltage regulator, etc. possible on this tractor? I"d like to upgrade the electrical system with something more state of the art and put a new wire harness on it. Of course my problem may be the starter motor itself, not the electronics, but I"d like to get the electrical system upgraded in any event. Your responses will be appreciated.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Have you put a volt meter on the battery to test the amount of voltage coming from the battery ??? You should see between 12 and 13 volts DC.

I have seen a few times on cars were the lights will light up but the car won't fire. Having a good battery on a diesel is alot more critical on a gasser since they don't have spark plugs.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[Anonymous-0]

It could be a lot of different things but after the battery:

Have you cleaned the terminals?

There is a switch on the top of the starter with two wires. Have you tried bridging the wires and seeing if the starter spins? ENSURE THE TRACTOR IS NOT IN GEAR WHEN YOU DO THIS!!!

Try a wire from the LIVE pole on the battery to the solenoid small terminal. Starter should spin but not engage! SEE ABOVE FOR SAFETY POINT!!!

These problems will not be related to the voltage regulator or dynamo. It is possible to wreck both battery and dynamo by carrying out adjustments to the voltage regulator without the correct setting sequense or volt/amp meters.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, Majorman. I'll do as you suggest. By "live" pole on battery I assume you mean the positive pole. What do you mean by the solenoid "small" terminal? Both of the terminals on the solenoid (the device on top of the starter?) seem to be same size. Just for my clarity, is the "dynamo" the round device that is bolted to the air cleaner housing, separate from the "box" that I assume is the voltage regulator? Or do I have these mixed up? I know very little about automotive electronics. Thanks.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, morningwood. The battery tests normal.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Dynamo is the English word for what us americans would call a generator. The dynamo is located in front of the tractor, it should use the same belt as the water pump and tractor motor.

The black box that is bolted next to the air cleaner is the voltage regulator.

The stater solenoid is the round device that your battery is wired too, there should be two big terminal and a small terminal. The battery should be wired POSITIVE GROUND unless it has been changed by you or the previous owner.

Scott

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, Scott, very helpful. I've always wondered what the dynamo is.

I believe the previous owner(s) have changed this unit to a negative ground, as the negative cable from the battery is bolted to the engine. I've read on this site, long ago, that most of the older units are so rewired.

Am I to conclude that the small cylindrical device mounted between the firewall and the air cleaner near the voltage regulator, attached to which there are several wires both large and small, is the starter solenoid?

Thanks for your help.

Jack

 

[Anonymous-0]

Jack,

Yep that is the starter solenoid. The original will have all three posts on the top. I have a replacement and it has them on the sides and you should be able to get one from your local NH dealer if you beleive it is bad. If your is original it should be similar to B3876 in the above pic.

Majorman can explain more about the electrical system on the major more that what I can but from what I know and have seen your starter will work whether the battery is setup as negative or positive ground. The only issue with setting the tractor up as negative ground is that the voltage regulator is setup as negative ground and it will not charge the battery correctly unless you get a new voltage regulator ( I think ) and then change the polarity of your dynamo. If that is something you want to pursue Majorman can give you the correct steps.

Scott

 

[Anonymous-0]

You two gentlemen have been very helpful. The graphics are much appreciated, Scott.

Here is what I've done so far, without any positive results: cleaned terminals, bridged the two little terminals on the starter engagement switch and checked wires for breaks. The little rubber boot that covers the starter switch is torn off, and I'd like to remove that unit and replace the boot. Do you think that mechanism could be faulty and in need of replacement? And is it the kind of thing that is readily available?

At this point I am groping.

Thanks.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Woolman,

If you got nothing when you bridged those wires you have no power from the battery. If you've bridged the little wire on the solenoid and have not motored the starter I would suspect the solenoid has failed.

I will send you an E-mail with the wiring diagram.(if your address is on site, if not contact me at http://fordson.freeweb.nl/home)

 

[Anonymous-0]

There are as the previous people have said several positions to Start the engine. You need to look at the thick lead connected to the Starter Motor, follow this back to the nearest terminal to the Battery. Have a look at the Battery and the terminal that is NOT connected to Earth [Chassis]. To bypass the majority of Electrics Short out with a big insulated copper bar between the Battery connector and this terminal. Ensure Safety as above is carried out NOT IN GEAR AND Diesil is turned OFF. Starter should turn over. If this works as it should email me for the next steps as this is also 'Heath Robinson' Tactics.
Regards
Gaffa

 

[Anonymous-0]

Jack,

You can get the started solenoid from you local NH dealer, they are approx 30$.

The boot and electronics that sit on top of that starter are all one unit so you just cannot buy a boot ( just bought one a few months ago ). Now hold yours shorts, the boot / electronics on top of the starter is about 120$ and it is also available from NH. Bare-Co has the solenoid but I am not sure if they have the boot as there prices are usually a little better than NH. Bare-Co's web site is www.bare-co.com and if you need to order the parts call Moore Tractor at 1-800-754-9545 ( I am not a salesman for them, they have just treated me very well ).

Good Luck,

Scott

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks for doing this, Majorman. My email has changed since I registered it with this website.

You can reach me at: [email protected].

Don't know if this is pertinent, but one of the big terminals on the starter solenoid is a bit loose and wobbles from side to side. Is this normal?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, Scott. Wow! I expected costs to be high, but not that high. It amazes me how expensive these little parts can be. I'll seek out the sources you've mentioned.

 

[Anonymous-0]

That sounds like your problem. The solenoid is burnt out. This is the usual indication when that happens. The posts on the solenoid gets hot and burns the plastic away.

Its just a switch on the top of the starter there are no electronics on that type of starter. When you push the starting lever, the contacts on the switch make and trigger the solenoid. This then switches the main power to the starter motor.

I think Sparex do the switch and the rubber cover but I don't think you need anything more that the solenoid. Do not use an automotive one as these are not capable of transmitting the amount of power required by the starter. They will work for a short time and then burn out.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks Majorman. I also suspect it is the solenoid. I'll be going to the local NH dealer in a week or two and will let you and morningwood know how I progress. I appreciate your attention to this matter.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks, Gaffa. I'll do as you suggest if the installation of the new solenoid doesn't resolve the issue.