front-end loader front tires

[Marc Hudson]

I need to get new front tires for my JD 3020/148 loader as the old ones (6.5 x 16) are pretty much shot. I was wondering what the collective wisdom is - would it be best to stick with the 6.5 x 16 or go with something wider for more floatation with the FEL, say 10x16? 3-rib or 4-rib F-2's? The 3020 is used for feeding and pasture maintenance.

 

[Ray]

I use 16in truck tires,they will outlast any implement tire and are 10 ply.

 

[Anonymous-0]

also use pickup straight tread for loader tractor, main reason is tri rib tire will roll up a ridge when turning on grass or tend to plow. however make sure to use bias ply tires, radial tires have no side wall strength and tend to heel over when turning with a load also are very easy to cut thru side wall if a stump or sharp rock is run over. BTDT leroy

 

[hardscrabble]

Ray is on the right track with truck tires, especially if side-slip in steering isn't a major concern. If you decide on F-2 tractor tires get the 4-rib. Some 3-rib tires tend to break along the sides of the center rib when carrying heavy loads.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Since I have at least 13 wagons and several other machines that use the same 11L-15 tire and bolt pattern which matches the JD front hub- that's my tire of choice. Put those 6.50-16 wheels on the front of one hay wagon about 25 years ago, keep a couple spares around so it's never a problem to find a quick replacement. Buy rims with extra heavy (thick) centers.

 

[old]

I have been using tires off light trucks for years on my loader tractor. Nice thing is you can buy the cheap used and they will last for years and don't sink in as bad either. I have 235XR16s on the front right now and they have been on for 10 plus years and cost me all of $10 each
Hobby farm

 

[buickanddeere]

Truck tires don't steer worth a darn and they look cheap.
Use the heaviest ply three rib farm tire you can find & save the tractor's wheel brakes.

 

[Jim J]

My Dad and I had the argument with tri ribs and trailer tires not turning. On our loader tractor we were blowing a tri rib tire once a month we went to a new trailer tire and quit ruining tires. The tractor turns just as good as with the trailer tires as it did with the tri ribs and now it don't make as bad of ruts like it did with the tri ribs.

 

[Doc Larry]

I once had a Ford 3000 with loader and standard front rib tires. I was stuck continuously because the front end went axle deep ever soft spot I found! Go for the flotation front if you plan get any real work done. I now have an IHC 2424 with flotation frontsand no more problems.

Larry

 

[old]

Funny how when I use the normal 3 rib tires I would get stuck all the time and had problems steering and since I have switch to the truck tires I have only been stuck one time and never had any steering problems.
Hobby farm

 

[Chris(WA)]

I have 11-15's on my Loader and the work good. They are Implement ribbed truck recaps. Paid about $40 for them each.

 

[T_Bone]

Hi Marc,

Here's what I put on my IH-706D as I couldn't get airplane tires at that time (out of stock).

For such a whimpie looking tread design, they sure work well on turning. That should hold true until there bald.

I couldn't find anyone that could/would order me the F-2 4rib Firestone. about 2yrs ago. A local guy tried but was sent the wrong size. He was told, take'm or leave'm, that's all your getting.

T_Bone
Gempies

 

[RobMD]

put 9.5L -15's on it. The L tire is a heavy sidewall tire, and you can put 60 pounds of air in it. Rock solid.

Don't use the 16 inch rims, get the 15 inch 8 inch wide rims.

 

[Don-Wi]

How often do you go over soft spots? Our loader tractor is a Massey 165 and it's got 7.5-15's on it, and they carry pretty good for their lack of flotation width.

We used to have a loader on our Oliver 1755, and it had 11L 15's on the front. One blew out and we had a 7.50-16 on it for a spare, then went to dump dirt in mom's garden in the spring- the 7.50 sunk right in while the 11L stayed on top.

What were the other tire options for you model? A 10.00-16 tractor tire costs about 2x as much as a good 11L-15. We priced them out last year while looking for new fronts on our Massey 285. Now it's got 11L 15's on it.

If you don't encounter much for soft spots and the smaller tires seem to carry ok, there is no reason you can't keep using that size.

As for 3 rib vs 4 rib, we haven't noticed much difference between them. The 285 had 4 ribs on it, but they were pretty much bald so they didn't grab anyway. Now it's got a pair of used 3 ribs on it and they grab, but I can't compare to a pair of 4 ribs. Our 1855 Oliver has one of each, and both do their job so I can't complain about those either.

I would stay away from General tires though. One of the 4 ribs that was on the 285 was a General and it's weather checked horribly, and has been for the last 5-8 years. The other one was a Firestone and overall the rubber stayed in better condition, it just wore down a little faster.

Donovan from Wisconsin

 

[John A.]

Marc, There has been discussions on this topic in numbers just a little less than the one on....Which is the best oil?
Having had a loader tractor in my position for over 20 yrs. My vote and endorsement goes to Airplane tires. Kept playing around with implement tires for just short of 10 yrs going through numerious sets of tires. Then bought my first set of 3/4 worn out airplane tires. Used my factory rims with tubes. These 2 tires lasted......10 yrs !!!!
I had 2 flats, 1 on each tire, during that time!!!
This tractor is not a small tractor, it is a 76 966 with a 2350 IH loader.
The only other problem was the rims were a little to flimsy with such a heavier tire.
My 2nd and current set were half treads, I bought new after-market HD rims. Again with tubes /w NO Slime. Im on my 3rd yr on them and they are still great.
Our Ranch has a JD 4230 also, that we put Airplanes on, with slime in them. They work very well but the tire carcuss has numerious little seeps in the side walls. So every 3 months or so one needs to air them up a little, not much of a problem but it seems to need just a little every time I dig gravel out of our Calachie pit. Even though this set is not as good as my first 2 sets they are head and shoulders above anything else.
My set has the brake lip on the side of the tread face it adds to floatation. In function, It throws water away from the brake assembly on the nose wheel assembly.
Call Gensco @ Houston Texas. You can get their # out of your current "Fastline" magazine. Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.

 

[Jimmy King]

I once had a IHC 544 with a front end loader on it had 6.50 by 16 tires on it and I had flats all the time. I put 7.50 by 15 tires on it and had 2 flats in the next 3 years.

 

[Kansas Cockshutt]

I agree with OLD on this-

have rims off an old Massey Combine on front (wider with correct offset) and run 245/16 Load range E that are not quite bald- They steer (with power steering)and float well and are a lot easier on the wallet. I still have the old three rib and original rims if/when I need to return the old gal to normal.

 

[colekicker]

Here goes my 2 cents.
Get 3 rib tires. More pounds per square inch of rib and they will turn better than the 4 rib. I have run a tractor in the hayfield when we didn't have time to get another 3 rib and had a truck tire on it. It was tough to turn. The front end would just push.
I would get what the widest tire you can fit onto there for flotation. But, when you do that you are going to eventually make the wear factors greater and wear the tie rods faster because of the bigger tire.

 

[buickanddeere]

Well around here the flat tread tires slide and require use of wheel brakes.
Firestone Champion Guide Grips in 6 or 8 ply. Or Firestone Champion Guide Grip HD in 8 to 12 ply.
The original F-2/three rib fronts on the 1989 JD 2355 loader tractor lasted 15 years. Replaced them because the sidewalls were starting to crack, they had yet to blew out.