Front Mount Distributor Help

[MasserD]

I have a 9n and rebuilding the distribuior. I am having a problem starting and I have gone over many times and it still want start. While putting the distributor together I put the thin copper connector back on the connector on the big brass screw, is that where it goes? On page 19 fig fo44 of the manual shows the copper scrip goiing under the post where you connect the condenser wire, I think. My starting problem is it just turns over but won't start. Do I have the copper scrip in the wrong place. Thank You.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I'm a little confused as to what manual you're looking at...but...

If you're talking about the thin strip of brass that's about 3/4" long, it connects between the screw on the points and the large screw that the condensor connects to, yes.

Now, when you put the coil on, make sure that the conical shaped spring from the coil goes now and presses against that same screw. Also make sure that the "leaf" spring on the coil presses against the small metal contact on the disty cap.

You should be good to go...now check for spark at the plugs.

 

[Dunk]

Some good dist. pics here.

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=661477

 

[MasserD]

Thanks for the information and fast reply. I will go out and try to put it back together the right way.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 16:40:20 03/19/09) I'm a little confused as to what manual you're looking at...but...

If you're talking about the thin strip of brass that's about 3/4" long, it connects between the screw on the points and the large screw that the condensor connects to, yes.

Now, when you put the coil on, make sure that the conical shaped spring from the coil goes now and presses against that same screw. Also make sure that the "leaf" spring on the coil presses against the small metal contact on the disty cap.

You should be good to go...now check for spark at the plugs.

He is probably looking at a very old FO-4 that has only 39 pages...the pg19 & pict FO44 fit.

See pictures here: Be sure coils 'spring' is stretched enough to make good electrical contact with concave screw (red) and be sure there are no shorts to metal parts near 'spring' nor at areas marked in yellow. HV tab (green) in proper position to contact button on distributor cap. Those are just paper insulators at the screw terminals, might want to verify that they are still insulating vs shorted.

 

[TennesseeMan]

I feel your pain. I've said it once and I'll say it again. I'd like to dig up the man who invented the Front Mount set up. Slap him in the face and then slam the coffin lid back down. But I have to admit, I enjoy my 49 8N.

 

[ZANE]

Double check the insulator where the concave screw goes. They are famous for shorting out.

When I run into one that is shorted out I use a spring part from the old set of points and go directly to the spring from the coil. Bend the old screw mount out of the way to do this and attach the condenser to the points screw instead of where it went under the concave screw.

Or buy a new distributor plate with a good insulator.

Zane

 

[oldgoat]

check to see if rotor is pointed at #1 wire on dist. cap when #1 piston is at tdc,if not losin timing plate lock screw & adjust dist. so cap&rotor line up

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 22:47:01 03/19/09) check to see if rotor is pointed at #1 wire on dist. cap when #1 piston is at tdc,if not losin timing plate lock screw & adjust dist. so cap&rotor line up

That will NOT work.

The timing adjust screw only moves the points relative to all other parts, including the distr cam/rotor and the cap. The cap & rotor will maintain the same relationship, no matter how far & how much you move the timing adjust screw/points plate. This ain't no side mount!

 

[Bill Crowell]

Working on a front-mount distributor builds character.